BBC Good Food Magazine

Mushrooms by Martin Nordin

Editor Keith Kendrick gets a masterclas­s in funghi, exploring 70 recipes


They’re the closest plant-based thing to measure up to meat

Ihate the word ‘superfood’, but mushrooms should be wearing mini capes. They’re packed with essential vitamins and antioxidan­ts, and they taste amazing. As a meat-eater, they’re probably the closest plant-based thing I’ve eaten – texturally and flavour-wise – to measure up to a steak. My favourite way to cook them is boiling until the water runs dry, as this cooks them without losing moisture. Then, add whatever fat you like to brown them, resulting in perfectly plump mushrooms with bags of umami flavour. They’re glorious – which is exactly the word Swedish fungi fan Martin Nordin uses to describe his passion for the ingredient in his plant-based Mushrooms cookbook.

“I’ve loved mushrooms for as long as I can remember,” he says. “My mother used to make creamy mushroom soup during the week and at weekends, and for celebratio­ns we’d have stu‚ed mushrooms, creamy mushroom mince on croustades, mock snails and some kind of sauce or stew smelling of white wine.” His book isn’t about foraged mushrooms – and all the potential perils they can bring – but cultivated ‘shrooms, of which there’s now a more diverse selection on supermarke­t shelves. Chapters cover boiling, frying, roasting, barbecuing and deep-frying, plus pickling and dried mushies. But, which mushroom should you choose? Martin guides us through the types and their characteri­stics, from oysters to champignon­s (the most cultivated mushroom), and shiitake to black morels (my favourite). There are also the more familiar chestnuts, whites and buttons. For many of the recipes, I couldn’t find the specific mushroom recommende­d by Martin, but it didn’t matter

– I cooked fried shiitake with peas & shallots, miso-roasted portobello with pesto, and porcini mushroom risotto – the results were delicious. For the recipe below, the book suggests just ‘mushrooms’. Combined with another of my favourite ingredient­s – brussels sprouts – it’s a recipe that could have come from Planet Krypton!

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