Good Food

Use salt wisely

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Put this simple seasoning to clever use

Seasoning with salt is the easiest way to unlock flavour in food, but the timing of that process can make a di erence. Unlike pepper, which is a spice, salt brings a chemical reaction which can be a gamechange­r when used well. By salting beforehand (‘pre-salting ’), you’ll end up with more succulent meat or vegetables that require less cooking. If you salt meat and leave it for a few minutes, you might notice that it begins to draw out the moisture. If you cook it at this point, it’s likely to be tough, so leave it for a while longer (see timings, right) in the fridge until the liquid has reabsorbed. This will make the meat more succulent. If you salt just before cooking, you’re only seasoning the surface. Pre-salt, and you’ll get the flavour throughout.

HOW MUCH SALT?

Season generously, but not heavily enough that it starts curing the ingredient­s – any heavy salting will need to be wiped o before cooking. You can add herbs and spices at this stage, as the salt will help them permeate the meat or vegetables.

WHEN TO SALT

Seasoning a chicken or steak two hours before cooking will make a noticeable di erence, but these optimum salting times will take them to the next level.

LARGE BIRDS AND MEAT

Turkey, rib roasts, lamb leg or shoulder, pork belly (for amazing crackling), pork loin or any other large joint of meat can be salted up to two days ahead.

SMALL BIRDS AND STEAKS

Chicken and duck (including pieces on the bone), thick steaks and fat chops can all be seasoned the day before.

FISH Our columnist Tom Kerridge recommends salting pieces of white fish an hour or two before cooking to firm them up and make them flakier once cooked.

VEGETABLES Salting raw veg before cooking will soften them, which means they’ll need less cooking and absorb less oil if frying. So, toss your vegetables in a bit of salt and leave them for 20 minutes before cooking. For slaws and pickles, season and leave to sit for 20 minutes before dressing.

DON’T FORGET

It isn’t just for savoury dishes. Desserts, pastry and sweet bakes can all be enhanced with a little salt, which is why salted caramel is a popular flavour combinatio­n.

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