British smoked fish
As an island nation surrounded by coastlines, it’s no surprise that the UK has thriving fishing communities that are catching and producing some of the best fish in the world.
We spoke to The Tobermory Fish Company, based on the Hebridean Isle of Mull in Scotland, about its family fish-smoking business. Established over 50 years ago, it’s still being run by founders Hugh and Marjorie Goldie’s daughter, Rosie, and granddaughter, Sally.
To prepare its award-winning smoked produce, The Tobermory Fish Company uses two traditional crafts: careful curing, followed by either a long, slow, cold smoke, or a shorter hot smoke.
“Our family recipes use an exact mixture of salt, herbs and spices to bring out the very best flavours in salmon, trout, haddock and mussels. Over the years, we’ve added some unique flavours by refining these recipes. On the journey the fish takes from sea to plate, it’s very important to us that we achieve our classic smoked taste using only natural wood smoke, and no dyes or additives,” says Sally. The company is part of a strong and supportive local community, which is comprised of many who earn their livelihood from the sea surrounding the island. In fact, the smokehouse is designed to accommodate the flexible hours of local fishermen, meaning freshly caught fish and shellfish can be delivered straight to the chill room, no matter what time of day or night. This also ensures that the company is able to stick to its core value of only using sustainable, fresh, local fish. tobermoryfish. co.uk
Coastal offerings
Smoking fish and seafood is a long-standing tradition in seaside towns around the UK. The practice is said to originate in Grimsby, where fish was hung above smouldering wood shavings in chimneys and slowly smoked to preserve it before the introduction of chillers. The flavour can vary depending on the environment and wood used. It’s a method still followed by artisan producers today, though some smoked fish is made using additives. For this reason, it’s worth seeking out products labelled as being ‘traditionally smoked’. If you’re heading to the coast this summer, look out for these smoked fish delicacies:
Grimsby, Lincolnshire
Traditional smoked haddock is the only product in Lincolnshire to have protected geographical status in the European Union. Available undyed or stained, the iconic yellow flesh comes from turmeric. Use it in fish pie, fishcakes or kedgeree.
Arbroath, Angus
The fishing town of Arbroath on the east coast of Scotland is famous for its North Sea smoked haddock, commonly know as Arbroath smokies.
Whitby, Yorkshire
If you’re visiting Whitby, stop off at Fortune’s Kippers. The shop first opened in 1872 and is a fifth-generation family-run business. Kippers are produced using herrings (they only become ‘kippers’ after smoking) and are great with poached eggs.
Orford, Suffolk
Foodies flock to Orford for Butley Orford Oysterage, a restaurant famous for its fresh Butley oysters. Its sister shop, Pinneys of Orford, sells its awardwinning smoked fish, seafood and meat.
Ballycastle, Co Antrim
Learn more about the smoking process during a tour or workshop at the North Coast Smokehouse in Ballycastle – it produces smoke-roasted organic salmon, as well as smoked trout, sea salt, dulse seaweed, black pepper and rapeseed oil.