IBIZA

A S TYL IST’ S G UIDE

Belle - - Chi C N Om Ad -

On my re­cent trip to Ibiza, all no­tion of its beach rave archetype was dis­si­pated with sev­eral in­cred­i­ble stays that in­stead re­vealed a side to the is­land that was all so­phis­ti­ca­tion, holis­tic ap­proach and de­sign sen­si­bil­ity. While the places where I stayed show­cased dif­fer­ent view­points of the is­land, they each em­bod­ied a more re­laxed hip­pie-es­que vibe rather than party des­ti­na­tion, with beau­ti­ful ex­pe­ri­ences that spoke of un­in­hib­ited re­lax­ation for the in­formed trav­eller and el­e­vated stays with no sense of pre­ten­sion or ex­clu­siv­ity – ev­ery guest was a VIP.

I had a week planned to ex­plore what the is­land had to of­fer and af­ter ying in from Lon­don we headed straight to the moun­tain­ous area and pas­toral in­lands that sur­round La Granja, a cen­tury-old farm­house es­tate turned ex­em­plary ho­tel with kitchen gar­dens, 10 acres of farm­land, out­door din­ing, com­mu­nal spa­ces and pool.

The hill and for­est sur­rounds aren’t typ­i­cally what Ibiza con­jures up, but through­out the stay I never felt the urge to leave and head beach­side. Scents of sun-baked stone, pine, toma­toes, green leaves and ripe gs per­vade the air, with rich, red clay soil un­der­foot and large pine and carob trees ank­ing the main farm­house. The build­ing, made from lo­cal stone in caramel, creams and soft peach tones, an­chors the es­tate and houses nine rooms that are scat­tered around some­what ca­su­ally. It’s all so­phis­ti­cated rus­tic, with a great stone re­place and lounge room at its heart where guests will nd a beau­ti­ful pair­ing of in­te­grated stone fur­ni­ture and soft fur­nish­ings of heavy linen, in a pal­ette of muted hues, dusty creams, soft and rich greys.

The lounge spills into the out­door kitchen and long com­mu­nal din­ing area which re­ally em­bod­ies the sense of cul­ti­va­tion at the core of La Granja; each day freshly picked pro­duce from the kitchen gar­dens and farm is piled high and dis­played cor­nu­copian-style, wait­ing to be trans­formed by chef José Catrimán into de­li­cious meals. They re­ally are pas­sion­ate about food and it’s truly a pad­dock-to-plate ex­pe­ri­ence with a no-waste phi­los­o­phy.

Din­ing and drink­ing takes place around the pool area with a back­drop of the fruit­ing prickly pear. As night falls, lights be­gin to twin­kle around the gar­den and soft, groovy beats ll the air (I was con­stantly Shaz­a­m­ing – they not only have great taste in de­sign but also tunes!). In the evening be sure to sam­ple a mez­cal cock­tail mixed with freshly picked herbs and fruits un­der the bean tree of the out­door bar.

A stone path with pine un­der­foot leads up to a tree­top-level plat­form where I en­joyed a pri­vate yoga class with a soft ci­cada and bird­song sound­track to waken the soul and start the day.

Break­fast starts from 8.30am with stand­out muesli and fresh juices. The rhythm of the stay is to or­der meals in ad­vance as it is all made to or­der and you can choose a dif­fer­ent spot to dine at each meal time, al­low­ing you to ab­sorb the sur­rounds and views. You get to know the ex­cel­lent staff who it between ser­vic­ing the farm­house and tend­ing the gar­dens and not once did I wish to be any­where else as all was pro­vided for.

Af­ter de­part­ing La Granja, we jour­neyed to the south­ern fore­shore and stayed at a pri­vate villa de­signed by one of my favourite cre­ative gu­rus, Faye Toogood. Un­for­tu­nately so­cial me­dia and pho­tog­ra­phy were strictly banned at this stun­ning lo­ca­tion, but it con­tin­ued the el­e­vated, re­laxed stay un­til we reached our next des­ti­na­tion, Los Enamora­dos.

Los Enamora­dos is tucked away on the quiet top end of the is­land pro­vid­ing yet an­other as­pect of Ibiza with its own char­ac­ter – you won’t nd su­per yachts here but rather a pro­tected, shal­low cove pro­vid­ing a port for Zo­diac ves­sels and old leisure shing boats. You can’t help but feel as if you’ve stum­bled upon the ‘real’ Ibiza.

The own­ers’ per­son­al­i­ties re­ally shine through in the eclec­tic yet lowkey in­te­ri­ors. For­mer pro bas­ket­baller Pierre Traver­sier and for­mer in­te­ri­ors mag­a­zine ed­i­tor Roze­mar­ijn de Witte have poured their jet-set­ting ex­pe­ri­ence into cre­at­ing a take-home ec­cen­tric estab­lish­ment that oozes cool and ca­sual. It takes some time to break down the colour­ful lay­ers on ar­rival but it re­veals the vi­sion of a great cu­ra­tor: Dan­ish an­tiques, mod­ernist fur­ni­ture, Moroc­can rugs, French ea­mar­ket nds and South African de­sign­ers. It’s the kind of eclec­tic mix you can see your­self liv­ing with.

The rst oor in­cludes re­cep­tion, restau­rant, re­lax­ing ar­eas and an out­stand­ing shop, with a cro­cheted change room, which con­tains lim­it­ededi­tion Air Jor­dans, Greek san­dals, vin­tage light­ing, table­ware, rugs, leather-wrapped es­kies and cool­ers, Mar­rak­shi Life cloth­ing, hats, bags and high-end sun­glasses. Ev­ery­thing is for sale and you get the feel­ing the own­ers love to re­plen­ish stock so don’t be afraid to ask.

The ho­tel houses nine rooms that run off one side of a long cor­ri­dor cov­ered in Moroc­can rugs (Sou ane Zarib’s, for sure!) with num­bers spray­painted on the doors. All the rooms have ve­ran­dahs over­look­ing the cove and sur­round­ing cliffs and caves. Moroc­can tiles in all their beau­ti­ful hues line the walls, com­ple­mented by ter­ra­cotta oors and lay­ers of punchy but not in-your-face linen on the beds. It’s quirky, it’s per­sonal and it works.

The com­mu­nal spa­ces make you feel right at home with mixed seat­ing choices from low to din­ing to bar height, with an ar­ray of Fer­mob chairs, hand­made army tarp bean­bags, African wooden stools and cam­paignin­spired daybeds. On the pa­tio, raf a-fringed 60s um­brel­las danc­ing in the breeze keep the sun off as do the wo­ven Moroc­can shade cov­ers.

Ex­plore a lit­tle as there is a great col­lec­tion of plants around the sides of the ho­tel and a lovely road­side gar­den. There are Zo­di­acs or more ro­man­tic wooden boats with shades to hire to visit the greater sur­round­ing bay ar­eas or, if your stay is too windy (as ours was), take the pad­dle­boats or kayak around the shel­tered cove which still of­fers plenty to in­ves­ti­gate. You can also snorkel in the clear wa­ters or take the walk that runs around the dra­matic coast­line to the north­ern­most tip and check out the Punta des Moscarter, Ibiza’s tallest light­house painted in black-and-white candy stripes.

From its 1960s-style pa­tio to its ‘liv­ing in the kas­bah’ vibe Los Enamora­dos is one of the coolest, most ca­sual and chic-est ho­tels I have ever stayed. It’s done so well that you de nitely want to buy into this life­style. la­gran­jaibiza.

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