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Better Homes and Gardens (Australia) - - Recycledki­tchen -

BUILD A CAB­I­NET DOOR Panel doors like th­ese can be eas­ily repli­cated, so add ex­tra cab­i­nets know­ing you can also make the doors to match.

Gather your sup­plies MDF that is half the thick­ness of the door Dec­o­ra­tive mould­ing to match ex­ist­ing Han­dles to match ex­ist­ing

You’ll also need Power saw with fence at­tach­ment; PVA glue; nails; damp cloth; wood putty; sand­pa­per; acrylic un­der­coat; Du­lux Aqua­namel top­coat; paint­ing equip­ment; 35mm Forstner bit; con­cealed kitchen hinges


When us­ing power tools, wear all safety gear re­quired. For more in­for­ma­tion, re­fer to your equip­ment pack in­struc­tions.

Here’s how STEP 1 Cut a panel of MDF to match size of door you need. Tip

Doors are a few mm smaller than cab­i­nets they at­tach to, to cre­ate gap be­tween doors. Mea­sure an ex­ist­ing door to find out how much smaller it is. STEP 2 Use power saw with fence at­tach­ment to cut strips of MDF for stiles and rails of door. Stiles go down sides of door and rails go be­tween them at top and bot­tom. Make them the same width as those on ex­ist­ing doors.

STEP 3 Spread PVA glue over back of stiles and rails, and nail to door panel. Use a damp cloth to wipe off ex­cess glue.

STEP 4 Cut dec­o­ra­tive mould­ing to fit around in­sides of rails and stiles. Cut a 45° an­gle on each end to mitre joins in cor­ners. Spread glue over back of mould­ing and press onto door. Nail in place. Re­move ex­cess glue and leave to set.

STEP 5 Fill all nail holes and gaps in door with wood putty. Let dry then sand smooth. Re­move dust and ap­ply un­der­coat. Let dry then ap­ply 2 top­coats, al­low­ing to dry af­ter each coat.


For a su­per‑smooth fin­ish, sand lightly be­tween coats to re­move brush marks. Use a new brush with fine bris­tles for fi­nal coat. STEP 6 Use a 35mm Forstner bit to drill holes in back of doors for hinges. Fit hinges to hinge blocks on cab­i­net. Drill hole in door for han­dle and fit.

CRE­ATE A FEN­CEPAL­ING BENCH­TOP Look­ing to add unique char­ac­ter to your is­land? All you need is an old fence!

Gather your sup­plies 17mm form­ply Re­cy­cled hard­wood fence pal­ings (de‑nailed)

You’ll also need Power saw with fence at­tach­ment; con­struc­tion ad­he­sive; drill; 30mm wood screws; nail gun and nails; straight­edge; scrap­ers; pow­der putty; sponge; power plane; belt san­der and fine sand­pa­per; fin­ish­ing san­der; vac­uum; clear polyuretha­ne coat­ing; paint­ing equip­ment

Here’s how STEP 1 Cut form­ply to size to suit width and length of kitchen is­land, al­low­ing for over­hang on cab­i­nets and bench­top edg­ing. STEP 2 To join lengths of form­ply if re­quired, cut a form­ply back­ing block to fit over un­der­side of join. Try to make block fit in­side a cab­i­net so you won’t have to cut out parts of cab­i­net to ac­com­mo­date the block when in­stalling. Spread con­struc­tion ad­he­sive over block, place over join and screw to­gether with 30mm wood screws. STEP 3 Start­ing from 1 edge, glue and nail fence pal­ings to form­ply. Place pal­ings so they over­hang edge of ply slightly. Con­tinue lay­ing pal­ings across form­ply, stag­ger­ing joins be­tween pal­ings on each row. Tip

Cre­ate a sym­met­ri­cal look by lin­ing up the joins on ev­ery al­ter­nate row.

STEP 4 Us­ing a straight­edge as a guide, use power saw to cut off pal­ings where they over­hang edge of form­ply.

STEP 5 Us­ing power saw with fence at­tach­ment, cut pal­ings along length to use as edg­ing around bench­top. Make width of edg­ing the thick­ness of pal­ing and form­ply bench­top plus 10mm. En­sure cab­i­net doors will still open with ex­tra 10mm and re­duce if nec­es­sary. Cut to length then glue and nail around edges.

STEP 6 Us­ing a wide scraper, re­move any loose tim­ber and dirt from pal­ings. Brush or vac­uum away de­bris.

STEP 7 Mix pow­der putty with a lit­tle more wa­ter than pack in­struc­tions. This makes it a bit runny so it’s eas­ier to spread and get into cracks. Spread putty over en­tire sur­face of pal­ings and edg­ing, us­ing scraper to force it into gaps. Be­fore putty starts to set, wipe away ex­cess with a damp sponge. Leave to dry.

Use power plane to re­move any high spots where pal­ings meet and to make bench­top flat.

STEP 9 Use belt san­der fit­ted with fine sand­pa­per to smooth top of pal­ings. Check sur­face to see if the putty has got­ten into all the cracks and gaps and reap­ply where re­quired. Switch to a less pow­er­ful fin­ish­ing san­der to re­move sand­ing marks and smooth sur­face fur­ther. Vac­uum to re­move dust.

STEP 10 Ap­ply 2 coats of clear polyuretha­ne coat­ing to bench­top, al­low­ing to dry af­ter each coat.

STEP 11 Place bench­top in po­si­tion and screw up through cab­i­nets to at­tach.

Demi­john Bot­tle, $89, The Lost and Found Depart­ment. Folk Pad Printed Serv­ing Bowl in Red, $49 (large), West Elm. Rec­tan­gle Wire Bas­ket (above), $25. Elm Round Chop­ping Board (be­low), $115 (large), The Lost and Found Depart­ment. Res­ur­rec­tion Aro­ma­tique...

7. When you re­jig your re­cy­cled kitchen, you’ll likely need a few more cab­i­net doors. No probs!

Leave it a bit rough – what a charmer!

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