Now for the fun part

Ev­ery­thing you need to know to make the projects

Better Homes and Gardens (Australia) - - Contents -

Stepby-steps for the craft projects

from pages 166 and 188 PLEASE BE SEATED Gather your sup­plies 1.5m x 115cm cot­ton print fab­ric; 1m x 115cm con­trast­ing cot­ton fab­ric for pip­ing; 4.5m pip­ing cord, 5mm dia.; 53cm zip­per; 53 x 53 x 15cm square foam cush­ion in­sert

You’ll also need Sewing ma­chine with zip­per foot and gen­eral sewing sup­plies; match­ing sewing threads

Here’s how STEP 1 From main fab­ric, cut:

2 top and bot­tom pieces 56 x 56cm;

3 side pieces 56 x 17cm;

2 zip pieces 56 x 10cm; then set aside. STEP 2 With right sides fac­ing, fold cut edge of pip­ing fab­ric over to selvedge edge to cre­ate a tri­an­gle shape. Cut along fold, then cut 5cm-wide strips from each side of this cut, along bias. Square off ends of each strip. You’ll need com­bined length of all strips to to­tal 4.5m. STEP 3 Place 2 strips, right sides fac­ing, at a 90° an­gle. Sew across the ‘square’ they make, along di­ag­o­nal. (Make sure, be­fore you sew, long edges line up and bias of fab­ric is in same di­rec­tion.) Trim seam al­lowance back to 5mm and press seam open. Re­peat to sew to­gether half of bias strips to make 1 long strip, then re­peat with other half to make 2 long strips in to­tal.

STEP 4 Cut a strip of pip­ing cord to same length as a bias strip. Fold strip around pip­ing cord with wrong sides fac­ing and sew along length us­ing zip­per foot. Re­peat with sec­ond bias strip.

STEP 5 Pin 1 piece of pip­ing around all 4 sides of top cush­ion piece, right sides fac­ing and align­ing raw edges. Cut into seam al­lowance at cor­ners to help it curve around, then sew (still us­ing zip­per foot), leav­ing ends of pip­ing cord un­sewn.

STEP 6 Over­lap 2 ends of pip­ing cord and cut so they butt up against each other with no over­lap. Trim bias strip so ends over­lap by ap­prox­i­mately 8cm, then fold over end of 1 piece to wrong sides by 2cm. Po­si­tion this over top of raw edge, then pin in place and sew.

STEP 7 Re­peat Steps 5 and 6 with re­main­ing strip of pip­ing and bot­tom cush­ion piece.

STEP 8 To make han­dles, cut two 35 x 10cm pieces from main fab­ric. Fold each piece in half along length, wrong sides fac­ing, and press. Open out, fold over all 4 edges on each piece to the wrong sides by 1cm, press, then fold in half again. Top­stitch around all 4 sides, 5mm in from edge.

STEP 9 With right sides up, place a han­dle cen­trally onto 1 side piece. Pin, leav­ing some slack in han­dle so it’s easy to pick up, then se­cure in place by sewing a rec­tan­gle, about 4 x 3cm, at each end. Re­in­force by stitch­ing di­ag­o­nally from cor­ner to cor­ner in each di­rec­tion within the rec­tan­gle. Re­peat the step with your re­main­ing han­dle and a sec­ond side piece. STEP 10 Pin 1 side piece with a han­dle and 1 with­out, right sides fac­ing. Sew along 1 short edge. Sew other side piece with a han­dle onto re­main­ing short edge of piece with­out han­dle, in same way, to make 3 sides of cush­ion.

STEP 11 With right sides fac­ing, pin edge of zip along length of a zip piece. Sew us­ing zip­per foot. Open zip, then re­peat to sew other half of zip to re­main­ing zip piece.

STEP 12 Close zip, then pin and sew short ends of zip piece to short ends of cush­ion side, right sides fac­ing, to form a loop. Open zip again.

STEP 13 Pin side piece to cush­ion top, right sides fac­ing, align­ing raw edges and en­cas­ing pip­ing as you go. Us­ing zip­per foot, sew around all 4 sides, keep­ing close to pip­ing. Re­peat with bot­tom cush­ion piece.

STEP 14 Turn cush­ion cover right sides out through zip open­ing and press. In­sert foam cush­ion then close zip to fin­ish.

ROPED IN Gather your sup­plies Sil­ver end caps, 8mm dia. (2); strong glue; 65cm cot­ton rope, 8mm dia.; hot-glue gun and glue sticks; flat faux suede cord, 3mm wide: 25cm each of coral, burnt or­ange, pink, fuch­sia; 25cm nar­row neon or­ange cord; 30cm nar­row gold cord; 5 x 3cm brown faux leather; pom­pom, 2cm dia.; pli­ers; 6mm sil­ver jump rings (2); sil­ver lob­ster clasp

Here’s how STEP 1 Fill sil­ver end caps ¼-full with strong glue, press each end of rope firmly into an end cap, en­sur­ing glue comes into con­tact with rope. 10cm down from 1 rope end, dot hot glue onto rope. At­tach end of coral cord. Wind around rope, leav­ing a small space be­tween each wrap. Se­cure cord end to rope with a dot of hot glue.

STEP 2 Place a small dot of hot glue di­rectly af­ter wrapped cord and at­tach burnt or­ange cord. Wind this around rope, mak­ing sure each wrap butts up to pre­vi­ous wrap. Se­cure end of cord as be­fore.

STEP 3 Re­peat Step 2 us­ing gold cord af­ter burnt or­ange cord.

STEP 4 Fold pink cord in half to find cen­tre. Add hot glue onto rope just af­ter gold cord and stick down cen­tre of pink cord. Wrap 2 ends of cord around rope, al­ter­nat­ing in a criss­cross fash­ion along rope. Se­cure ends in place with hot glue.

STEP 5 Re­peat Step 2 us­ing fuch­sia cord af­ter pink cord, then neon or­ange cord.

STEP 6 Snip a se­ries of 2cm lines, 5mm apart, along 1 long side of faux leather to cre­ate a fringed ef­fect. Dot hot glue onto rope af­ter last wrap of or­ange cord. Wrap un­cut sec­tion of leather around glued rope, with fring­ing hang­ing over or­ange cord. Se­cure end of fring­ing with hot glue. At­tach pom­pom to top of fring­ing with hot glue.

STEP 7 Us­ing pli­ers, open a jump ring. Hook it onto a sil­ver end cap, hook lob­ster clasp onto jump ring and close. Re­peat with sec­ond end cap and re­main­ing jump ring.

PATCH IT UP Fin­ished size 40 x 60cm

Gather your sup­plies Small amount of 10 or more co­or­di­nat­ing fab­rics for cush­ion front; wa­ter sol­u­ble pen; 41 x 61cm back­ing fab­ric; 90 x 70cm bat­ting; 40 x 60cm cush­ion in­sert; 8 x 10cm Kraft-tex pa­per (op­tional, see Notes be­low); stamp and black Staz-on inkpad (op­tional)

You’ll also need Sewing ma­chine and gen­eral sewing sup­plies; match­ing sewing threads


■ Use a 5mm seam al­lowance un­less oth­er­wise stated. ■ Kraft-tex pa­per looks and feels a lit­tle like leather but you can cut, sew and wash it like fab­ric. It can be bought in a choice of nat­u­ral colours from craft shops on Etsy or

Here’s how STEP 1 Cush­ion top is made from 24 patch­work squares us­ing 3 styles of patch­work squares: half square tri­an­gles (HST), drunk­ard’s path quar­ters and plain squares. (Your cush­ion can use as many or few of each patch­work square style as you choose, so long as there are 24 in to­tal.) Fol­low­ing in­struc­tions be­low, cut out and make 24 patch­work units from cush­ion front fab­rics.

Mak­ing a half square tri­an­gle (HST)

STEP 2 To make 2 HSTS, cut two 12 x 12cm squares from dif­fer­ent fab­rics.

STEP 3 Place them right sides fac­ing, then draw a di­ag­o­nal line across cen­tre us­ing a wa­ter sol­u­ble pen.

STEP 4 Sew fab­rics to­gether, stitch­ing 5mm on ei­ther side of line.

STEP 5 Cut along line. Open 2 joined pieces out. Press seams open then to 1 side to com­plete.

Mak­ing a drunk­ard’s path quar­ter STEP 6 Cut an 11 x 11cm square. Us­ing a pho­to­copier, en­large tem­plates A and B (be­low) by 240% then cut out. Place tem­plate A in 1 cor­ner on wrong side of 1 square. Draw around it then cut out.

STEP 7 Re­peat Step 6 us­ing tem­plate B.

STEP 8 Fold both pieces A and B in half and crease to find cen­tre mark. With right sides fac­ing, pin pieces to­gether, match­ing edges and cen­tre marks. Use plenty of pins to match curves.

STEP 9 Sew pieces to­gether around curve. Press care­fully.

Mak­ing a plain square STEP 10 Cut an 11 x 11cm fab­ric square.

Cush­ion front

STEP 11 With right sides fac­ing stitch 2 units to­gether down 1 side. Con­tinue adding units to make a row of 6. Make 3 more rows. Press seams, press­ing each row in an al­ter­nate di­rec­tion. Join rows to­gether to make panel of 6 x 4 units. Press well.

STEP 12 Cut bat­ting in half, each piece mea­sur­ing 45 x 70cm. Lay 1 piece flat with patch­work panel right side up on top.

STEP 13 Rule a 2.5cm square grid on patch­work panel with wa­ter sol­u­ble pen. Quilt patch­work along ruled lines. Trim bat­ting back to match patch­work panel.

Mak­ing la­bel (op­tional) STEP 14 Trim Kraft-tex pa­per to size and stamp it

us­ing inkpad and stamp. Stitch la­bel in place in bot­tom right-hand cor­ner.

As­sem­bling the cush­ion

STEP 15 Place back­ing fab­ric right side up on top of other piece of bat­ting then mark and quilt, as for cush­ion front as done in Step 12. Trim back­ing piece even with patch­work front.

STEP 16 With right sides fac­ing, pin and stitch cush­ion front and back to­gether, leav­ing 1 short side open.

STEP 17 Turn right sides out. Re­move wa­ter sol­u­ble pen from both front and back. Place cush­ion in­sert in­side, fold in raw edges, then slip-stitch open­ing closed.

GAME, SET AND MATCH Gather your sup­plies Towel, hand towel or washer; cot­ton fab­ric; con­trast­ing fab­ric for bind­ing

You’ll also need Sewing ma­chine and gen­eral sewing sup­plies; match­ing sewing threads


Use a 5mm seam al­lowance un­less oth­er­wise stated.

Here’s how STEP 1 Mea­sure length across towel or face washer. Mea­sure pro­posed width of fea­ture panel (here width of wo­ven sec­tion on towel). STEP 2 Cut cot­ton fab­ric to th­ese mea­sure­ments, adding 1.5cm ei­ther side of length across (for hem­ming). Width doesn’t need ex­tra as it will be bound.

STEP 3 Cut two 2cmwide strips of bind­ing fab­ric, to same length as cot­ton fab­ric.

STEP 4 Place 1 strip right sides fac­ing along 1 long edge of cot­ton fab­ric, match­ing raw edges. Stitch to­gether.

STEP 5 Turn bind­ing strip over to wrong side of cot­ton fab­ric and press then pin into place on right sides.

STEP 6 Re­peat Step 4 and 5 to bind other long edge of cot­ton fab­ric with bind­ing strip.

STEP 7 Place bound strip onto right sides of towel over wo­ven sec­tion, or in cho­sen po­si­tion, and pin.

STEP 8 Turn short sides of bound strip un­der to meet edges of towel and pin. Slip-stitch short edges in place with match­ing thread. Top­stitch each bound edge in place.


Gather your sup­plies Mod Podge; paint­brush or glue ap­pli­ca­tor; coloured feath­ers; gold glit­ter; gold clamp find­ings; jew­ellery pli­ers; string; scis­sors; beads and small beach finds, such as shells (op­tional); em­broi­dery hoop

Here’s how STEP 1 Us­ing a paint­brush or glue ap­pli­ca­tor, ap­ply Mod Podge to tip of feath­ers, cover­ing roughly a quar­ter of sur­face. Place feath­ers in a plas­tic con­tainer and sprin­kle glit­ter all over glue­cov­ered area. Shake off the ex­cess and leave to dry.

STEP 2 Fix gold clamp find­ings to end of each feather, plac­ing bot­tom of quill in­side find­ing, then use pli­ers to bend each side over and se­cure.

STEP 3 At­tach a length of string to loop of gold clamp and tie a knot at back. Tie another knot slightly fur­ther up string, then thread on a bead (or beach find). Re­peat, knot­ting string be­fore adding each item, to sep­a­rate.

STEP 4 Take in­ner ring of em­broi­dery hoop and se­cure each piece of string to it with a knot. Start at cen­tre and work out­wards, mak­ing string ei­ther side slightly shorter each time and keep­ing it sym­met­ri­cal. Add a string loop for hang­ing.

Use your craft­ing pow­ers for good beau­ties and give th­ese hand­made to the special peo­ple in your life!

HUG-ME-TIGHT TED Fin­ished size about 28 x 19cm

Gather your sup­plies 1 x T-shirt; sewing match­ing and gen­eral sewing sup­plies; fi­bre­fill; felt scraps


For a child un­der three, omit bow tie de­tail for safety.

Here’s how STEP 1 Us­ing a pho­to­copier, en­large tem­plate (right) to 260%. Cut out. Turn T-shirt in­side out, pin on tem­plate. Al­low­ing 5mm around tem­plate for seam al­lowance, cut through both lay­ers of shirt. Pin fab­ric front and back to­gether, right sides still fac­ing.

STEP 2 Us­ing zigzag stitch, sew around out­side edge, leav­ing a 4cm gap on 1 side for turn­ing through. Us­ing straight stitch, stitch around again, in­side zigzag stitch, leav­ing open­ing un­stitched.

STEP 3 Turn bear right side out. Stuff firmly. Turn fab­ric al­lowance at open­ing through to in­side. Slip-stitch closed.

STEP 4 To make bow tie, cut felt to 4 x 6cm. Pinch felt in mid­dle, fold a T-shirt scrap around cen­tre and sew in place. Stitch bow tie firmly onto bear.

STEP 5 For nose, use tem­plate for po­si­tion­ing and sew on a piece of felt. For eyes and mouth, make 1 long stitch for each eye and mouth and work loops over to make them curved and for eye­lashes. IN THE BAG Fin­ished size 25 x 30cm

Gather your sup­plies Wa­ter sol­u­ble pen; 14 x 14cm square plain fab­ric; stranded em­broi­dery cot­ton; em­broi­dery nee­dle; 1 fat quar­ter cot­ton print (see Notes, be­low); 26 x 31cm pieces lin­ing fab­ric (2); 80cm nar­row cot­ton cord

You’ll also need Sewing ma­chine and gen­eral sewing sup­plies; match­ing sewing thread


■ A fat quar­ter is a piece of fab­ric about 50 x 55cm.

■ Use a 5mm seam al­lowance un­less oth­er­wise spec­i­fied.

■ If you want a dou­ble draw­string, un­pick cas­ing open­ing in op­po­site side seam and thread a sec­ond piece of cord from this open­ing. If cord is thick, make cas­ing a bit wider than 1cm.

Here’s how STEP 1 Us­ing wa­ter sol­u­ble pen, sketch a dec­o­ra­tive let­ter onto cen­tre of plain square. STEP 2 Us­ing 3 strands of em­broi­dery thread, work over out­line in chain stitch (see be­low). Dab away any marker residue with a damp cloth or cot­ton bud.

STEP 3 From print fat quar­ter, cut 2 rec­tan­gles 26 x 31cm and 1 square 14 x 14cm.

STEP 4 With right sides fac­ing, stitch em­broi­dered square to print square around all edges, leav­ing a small open­ing on 1 side for turn­ing through. Trim cor­ners then turn through and press, press­ing in raw edges of open­ing.

STEP 5 Cen­tre pocket on 1 print rec­tan­gle, po­si­tion­ing a few cm up from bot­tom. Top­stitch pocket in place, stitch­ing close to edge on 3 sides (not top side), se­cur­ing pressed open­ing at same time.

STEP 6 With right sides fac­ing, stitch 1 lin­ing piece to 1 print rec­tan­gle along one 26cm edge. Press seam open. Re­peat for sec­ond pair of rec­tan­gles.

STEP 7 Place joined pieces right sides fac­ing, putting lin­ing pieces to­gether and seams match­ing, then stitch bot­tom and side seams, leav­ing an open­ing along short side of lin­ing to turn through. Turn right sides out through open­ing and slip-stitch open­ing closed. Push lin­ing down into outer bag and press well, es­pe­cially around up­per edge.

STEP 8 To cre­ate cas­ing (see Notes, left), make a line of stitch­ing around top edge of bag 3cm be­low top. Stitch a sec­ond line 1cm be­low first. Where cas­ing crosses side seam, re­in­force both lines of stitch­ing by sewing back and forth a few times be­fore con­tin­u­ing.

STEP 9 With a seam rip­per, care­fully un­pick side seam stitches be­tween cas­ing lines, tak­ing care to un­pick outer bag seam only and not through re­in­forced stitches.

STEP 10 Thread cord through cas­ing, knot the ends and trim.

JUST IN CASE Gather your sup­plies 1 fat quar­ter fab­ric print (about 50 x 55cm); 25cm zip­per; rib­bon scrap

You’ll also need Sewing ma­chine with zip­per foot and gen­eral sewing sup­plies; match­ing sewing thread


Use a 1cm seam al­lowance un­less oth­er­wise stated.

Here’s how STEP 1 Cut fat quar­ter into 4 rec­tan­gles 17 x 27cm (2 are for case outer, 2 are for lin­ing).

STEP 2 Place 1 rec­tan­gle right side up then place zip across 1 long side, cen­tred and right sides down, match­ing raw long edge of fab­ric to edge of zip tape.

STEP 3 Stitch zip into place along this pinned edge us­ing zip­per foot.

STEP 4 Re­peat Step 3 with a sec­ond rec­tan­gle to at­tach other side of zip tape.

STEP 5 With 2 fab­ric/zip pieces right sides fac­ing, stitch to­gether along bot­tom long edge. Press joined pieces flat, match­ing up zip with bot­tom seam.

STEP 6 Sew across both short ends, catch­ing zip ends in cen­tre. Turn right sides out and press.

STEP 7 To make boxed cor­ner, turn case wrong sides out. Pinch 1 cor­ner, so seam runs up cen­tre to form a tri­an­gle.

STEP 8 Mea­sure 3cm up from point of tri­an­gle, rule a line across cor­ner at this point, then sew along ruled line, mak­ing a boxed cor­ner. Cut off cor­ner, 1cm out­side stitch­ing.

STEP 9 Re­peat Steps 7 and 8 to make 3 more box cor­ners.

STEP 10 To make lin­ing with re­main­ing 2 rec­tan­gles, turn 1 long edge on each piece un­der by 1cm to wrong side and press.

STEP 11 With 2 rec­tan­gles right sides fac­ing, stitch to­gether along long raw edge. Press flat, match­ing up turned-un­der edges with bot­tom seam.

STEP 12 Box cor­ners of lin­ing as done in Steps 7–9.

STEP 13 Pin lin­ing in­side pen­cil case outer, wrong sides fac­ing, and top­stitch to­gether along zip edge to hold lin­ing in place and neaten.

STEP 14 Loop rib­bon through zip pull to fin­ish.

CAPED CRU­SADER Gather your sup­plies For mask: 1 fat quar­ter soft fab­ric (about 50 x 55cm); 30 x 30cm iron-on dou­ble-sided fusible bond­ing web; fab­ric scraps in con­trast­ing colours; 30cm match­ing elas­tic For cape: 60 x 115cm soft fab­ric; 1 fat quar­ter fab­ric (about 50 x 55cm) in con­trast­ing colour; fab­ric scraps in con­trast­ing colours; 30 x 30cm iron-on dou­blesided fusible bond­ing web; 60 x 115cm lin­ing fab­ric in con­trast­ing colour (see Note); 2cm piece vel­cro You’ll also need Sewing ma­chine and gen­eral sewing sup­plies; match­ing sewing threads


Cape lin­ing is cut from a sin­gle length of fab­ric, but you can cut into pan­els like outer cape, if you pre­fer.

Here’s how Mask

STEP 1 Us­ing a pho­to­copier, en­large Caped cru­sader mask tem­plate (op­po­site) to 220% or size to suit your child. Make 2 copies. Cut out 1 copy along outer out­line.

STEP 2 Pre­pare enough fab­ric for front of mask by back­ing it with bond­ing web, us­ing a dry iron ac­cord­ing to pack in­struc­tions. Peel pa­per back­ing away and stick on sec­ond piece of fab­ric. Us­ing mask tem­plate, lightly trace its out­line onto 1 side of fab­ric.

STEP 3 Trace ap­pliqué tem­plate pieces (from sec­ond tem­plate pho­to­copy) onto pa­per side of more bond­ing web, trac­ing backto-front (so they’re right way round when bonded). Cut out, leav­ing a 5mm mar­gin, then bond to back of con­trast­ing fab­ric scraps. Cut out along traced lines and care­fully peel off back­ing pa­per. As­sem­ble ap­pliqué pieces in po­si­tion on mask front, ad­he­sive­side down. Cover with pa­per or a soft cloth and press into place un­til bonded, tak­ing care not to over­heat sen­si­tive fab­rics.

STEP 4 Top­stitch 2mm in from edge of all ap­pliqué shapes us­ing match­ing thread. Sew around traced lines for outer edge of mask and eyes.

STEP 5 Care­fully cut out mask 2mm from stitch­ing.

STEP 6 Cut out eyes us­ing smaller scis­sors. Sew elas­tic into place at back of mask, ei­ther by hand or ma­chine.

Cape STEP 7 Us­ing Caped cru­sader cape di­a­gram (right), pre­pare a

pa­per pat­tern to scale. Us­ing pho­to­copier, en­large Cape mo­tif tem­plates to 400% and neck­band to 220%. For cape pan­els, pin pa­per pat­terns to soft fab­ric and fat quar­ter fab­ric then cut out, adding 1cm seam al­lowance. Cut out 2 neck­bands, adding 1cm seam al­lowance. (Do not cut lin­ing yet.) STEP 8 Trace mo­tif tem­plates onto pa­per side of bond­ing web, trac­ing back-to-front, and cut out, leav­ing a 5mm mar­gin. Use a dry iron to bond pieces to back of var­i­ous con­trast­ing fab­rics. Cut out and care­fully peel off pa­per back­ing. STEP 9 With right sides fac­ing and with a 1cm seam al­lowance, pin and stitch cape pan­els to­gether along straight edges. Press seams to 1 side, then top­stitch close to seam on right side. Lay cape on lin­ing fab­ric, right sides fac­ing, and cut 1 lin­ing piece to match (see Note, op­po­site). STEP 10 Po­si­tion mo­tif pieces on right side of cape, ad­he­sive-side down. Cover with pa­per or a soft cloth and press into place un­til bonded, tak­ing care not to over­heat sen­si­tive fab­rics. Top­stitch around mo­tifs, 2mm from edges. STEP 11 Place cape and lin­ing right sides fac­ing and sew 1cm from edge, stitch­ing at start and fin­ish to se­cure and leav­ing neck edge open. Snip cor­ners, turn right side out and press. STEP 12 Place neck­band pieces right sides fac­ing and sew along shorter ends and top. Trim cor­ners then turn right side out and press. Mark cen­tre back of neck­band with a pin. With right sides fac­ing and match­ing cen­tre back of neck­band with cen­tre back of cape, pin 1 raw edge of neck­band to cape lin­ing and sew in place (ends will ex­tend at front edges). Press un­der 1cm on re­main­ing raw edges of neck­band. STEP 13 Fold re­main­ing raw edge of neck­band over seam al­lowance at neck edge, pin and top­stitch into place 2mm from edge along en­tire edge. Sew vel­cro fas­ten­ing into place at each short end of neck­band and press to fin­ish.

Just in case Caped cru­sader

Hug-me-tight ted In the bag Chain stitch Hug-me-tight ted tem­plate En­large to 260%

Game, set and match Dream­catcher de­light Gold clamp find­ings

En­large both to 240%

Please be seated Roped in Patch it up

Cape mo­tif tem­plates En­large to 400%, cut 2 stars Cape neck­band tem­plate En­large to 220%, cut 2 Caped cru­sader mask tem­plate En­large to 220%, cut 2 Caped cru­sader cape di­a­gram

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