Ev­ery­thing you need to know to get set to en­ter­tain

Treat your guests to sum­mer set­ting ideas that are fun and sim­ple to make

Better Homes and Gardens (Australia) - - Table Setting Makes -

WA­TER­MELON PLACE CARDS Gather your sup­plies

• White wa­ter­colour pa­per • Com­pass and pen­cil

• Scis­sors

• Wa­ter­colour paints in pink and green • Paint­brush

• Black marker pen

Here’s how

STEP 1 On white pa­per, use a com­pass and pen­cil to draw a cir­cle to suit your de­sired size of place card. Lightly draw 2 more con­cen­tric cir­cles within the outer cir­cle, al­low­ing for a 2cm outer bor­der (for green skin) and a 1cm in­ner bor­der (for white rind).

STEP 2 Fol­low­ing the marked line of the large cir­cle, cut the card. Fold cir­cle in half to make a wedge shape, then open out again.

STEP 3 Us­ing wa­ter­colours, paint in­ner cir­cle pink. When dry, paint outer bor­der green and let dry. Leave in­ner bor­der white.

STEP 4 Work­ing just in from edge of pink cir­cle, pen­cil-mark the seeds, then go over marks with black marker. Re-fold cir­cle in half, then write the name of a guest on 1 side of the wedge. Re­peat to make as many place cards as you need.

WA­TER­MELON LIDS OR COAST­ERS Gather your sup­plies

• Hama beads in green, white, pale pink, deep pink or red, and black

• Round plas­tic peg­boards • Grease­proof or wax pa­per • Iron

Here’s how

STEP 1 Ar­range a round of green beads in a cir­cle on the outer edge of the peg­board. Work­ing in rounds to­ward the cen­tre, ar­range a round of white beads, then a round of pale pink beads.

STEP 2 Con­tin­u­ing to work in rounds un­til you reach the cen­tre, ar­range deep pink or red beads, ran­domly adding a black bead here and there to rep­re­sent wa­ter­melon seeds. Note: if mak­ing drink lids, leave a round hole in the de­sign for the straw. STEP 3 Cover the beaded peg­board with grease­proof pa­per then, us­ing an iron on medium heat, iron the beads to fuse them to­gether. To strengthen the lid cover/coaster, flip it over and, with grease­proof pa­per on top and bot­tom, iron as be­fore.

ON THE FRINGE COCK­TAIL UM­BREL­LAS Gather your sup­plies

• Tis­sue pa­per packs in hot pink (green, gold or other colours op­tional) • Sharp scis­sors

• Cock­tail um­brel­las • Dou­ble-sided tape

Here’s how

STEP 1 Cut off a 15mm-wide strip across 1 end of a folded pack of pink tis­sue pa­per.

STEP 2 While still folded, make 10mmdeep snips across the strip, each about 3mm apart, to cre­ate a fringed ef­fect. Open out the snipped tis­sue strip. Op­tional: if cov­er­ing the um­brel­las com­pletely us­ing mul­ti­ple lay­ers of fring­ing, re­peat Steps 1 and 2.

STEP 3 Open cock­tail um­brella. Work­ing on the right side of the um­brella, stick dou­ble-sided tape on top of each um­brella arm from the edge to­wards the cen­tre, to the de­sired depth of the fring­ing.

STEP 4 Start­ing at the bot­tom edge and work­ing in­wards, at­tach 2 to

3 rows of pink fring­ing around the um­brella. You may wish to cut the fring­ing into sec­tions so it sits flat

on the um­brella. Use your fin­gers to fluff the fring­ing. Op­tional: Re­peat this step if adding ex­tra lay­ers of fring­ing, us­ing mul­ti­ple colours or cov­er­ing the um­brella com­pletely.

WA­TER­MELON PLACE­MATS Gather your sup­plies

• Large sheets of wa­ter­colour pa­per • Com­pass and pen­cil • Scis­sors

• Paint­brushes • Wa­ter­colour paints in pink, green, and yel­low or lime • Black marker pen

Here’s how

STEP 1 On a sheet of pa­per, use a com­pass and pen­cil to lightly draw 3 con­cen­tric cir­cles (hav­ing a com­mon cen­tre point), the first about 20cm in di­am­e­ter, the sec­ond about 23cm in di­am­e­ter and the last about 30cm in di­am­e­ter. Fol­low­ing the 30cm cir­cle’s marked out­line, cut out the cir­cle. STEP 2 Brush pink wa­ter­colour paint in the place­mat’s cen­tre cir­cle and let dry. Us­ing a clean paint­brush, ap­ply green wa­ter­colour around the place­mat’s outer bor­der. While still wet and us­ing a clean paint­brush, ap­ply yel­low or lime wa­ter­colour paint within the in­ner bor­der. It’s OK if the wa­ter­colour paint bleeds be­tween the outer and in­ner bor­ders as this blurs the hard out­line. STEP 3 Fol­low­ing a cir­cu­lar pat­tern, lightly mark seed po­si­tions on 2 cir­cles (one slightly smaller than the other) within the pink sec­tion of place­mat. Go over the marks with the black marker.

WA­TER­MELON CRO­CHET BOWL Gather your sup­plies

• 12 ply yarn or chunky yarn in dark pink or red, white, green and black • Cro­chet hook (use the size rec­om­mended for your yarn type) • Yarn nee­dle (for sewing in ends) • Scis­sors

Ab­bre­vi­a­tions

Beg = be­gin­ning; ch = chain; htr = half tre­ble; sl st = slip stitch; st/sts = stitch/stitches

NOTES: 1 You can use any thick yarn, in­clud­ing T-shirt yarn, to make a bowl sim­i­lar to the main pic­ture. Depend­ing on yarn, there will be a dif­fer­ence to the fin­ished size, which you can con­trol by work­ing more (or less) rounds for the base and for the sides. 2 The wa­ter­melon seeds can be hand-stitched on the bowl when it is com­plete. Or, you can cro­chet them ran­domly around the bowl as you go, sim­ply by chang­ing the yarn colour.

Here’s how

Base

STEP 1 Us­ing pink or red yarn, make a magic ring. To do this, make a loop (not a slip knot) with your yarn, leav­ing a 10cm tail at bot­tom of loop. In­sert hook from front to back. Wrap work­ing yarn around hook an­ti­clock­wise, pull yarn through loop. Make a turn­ing chain, 1ch then make 8htr into the ring. Pull the yarn tail taut to draw up the ring. Close round with a sl st.

Sum­mer wouldn’t be sum­mer with­out juicy slice a of wa­ter­melon

Round 1: 1ch, then work 8htr into ring. Pull ring closed and join round with a sl st in top of ch at beg. You now have 8sts. Round 2: 2ch (counts as 1 st through­out), work 1htr in same st, then work 2htr in each st to end of round. Join with a sl st to top of 2ch at beg. (16sts) Round 3: 2ch (counts as 1 st), in­crease by work­ing 2htr into the next st, then *1htr, inc* into the next 2 sts. Re­peat from * to * to end of round. Join with sl st to top ch of be­gin­ning 2ch. (24sts)

MON­STERA LEAF PLACE­MATS Gather your sup­plies

• Mon­stera leaf • Black marker • Green felt • Sharp scis­sors

Here’s how

STEP 1 Trace the out­line and cut-outs of a mon­stera leaf onto the felt.

STEP 2 Work­ing just in­side the marked out­lines, cut out the felt mon­stera leaf. Re­peat to make as many place­mats as you need.

Round 4: 2ch, 1htr in next st, 2htr in next st, * 1htr in each of next

2 sts, 2htr in next st, rep from * to end of round. Join with a sl st to top of 2ch at beg. (32sts)

Round 5: 2ch, 1htr in each of next 2 sts, 2htr in next st, * 1htr in each of next 3 sts, 2htr in next st, rep from * to end of round. Join with a sl st to top of 2ch at beg. (40sts)

Round 6: 2ch, 1htr in each of next 3 sts, 2htr in next st, * 1htr in each of next 4 sts, 2htr in next st, rep from * to end of round. Join with a sl st to top of 2ch at beg. (48sts)

Round 7: 2ch, then work 1htr in each stitch to end of round, work­ing through back loops only to cre­ate a ridge in your work. Join with a sl st to top of 2ch at beg.

Side

Rounds 8, 9, 10, 11, 12: 2ch, then work 1htr in each stitch to end of round. Join with a sl st to top of 2ch at beg.

Round 13: 2ch, then work 1htr in each stitch to end of round. Join with a sl st, as be­fore, but this time change your yarn colour by pulling through white yarn in­stead of pink or red. Leav­ing a tail, snip off pink/red yarn.

Round 14: 2ch, then work 1htr in each stitch to end of round. Join with a sl st to top of 2ch at beg.

Round 15: 2ch, then work 1htr in each stitch to end of round. Chang­ing yarn colour to green, join with a sl st to top of 2ch at beg.

Rounds 16 and 17: 2ch, then work 1htr in each stitch to end of round. Join with a sl st to top of 2ch at beg. Fin­ish­ing

Leav­ing a tail, snip yarn and use the yarn nee­dle to neatly con­ceal yarn tails in­side the bowl. Us­ing a back­stitch, hand-stitch black wa­ter­melon seeds around the bowl, here and there.

FRAYED NAP­KINS

Makes 6 nap­kins

Gather your sup­plies

• 1.5m cot­ton fab­ric, colour to suit • Sharp scis­sors

• Or­chids and pink jute string (op­tional)

Here’s how

STEP 1 Make snips into fab­ric every 50cm along selvedge.

STEP 2 Us­ing 2 hands, hold fab­ric ei­ther side of a snip, then rip from selvedge to selvedge. Re­peat twice more. You now have 3 fab­ric pieces. STEP 3 Make snips every 50cm across 1 long side of each fab­ric piece. Rip fab­ric from selvedge to selvedge at each snip. Any rem­nants can go into your fab­ric stash. You now have 6 frayed-edge nap­kins, each mea­sur­ing about 50 x 50cm. Pull away any loose threads. When set­ting your ta­ble, fold nap­kins around cut­lery, add an or­chid and tie with string (if us­ing).

HULA HOOP PEN­DANT Gather your sup­plies

• Hot-glue gun and hot-glue sticks • 10cm-wide strips of muslin (suf­fi­cient length to wrap around hoop) • Hula hoop

Wa­ter­melon place cards

Wa­ter­melon lids or coast­ers

On the fringe cock­tail um­brel­las

How to half tre­ble (htr) Step 1 Step 2 Step 3

Wa­ter­melon cro­chet bowl

Wa­ter­melon place­mats

STEP 1 Felt mon­stera place­mat

STEP 2

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