5 steps to suc­cess

Fol­low this sim­ple process for a pro­fes­sional-look­ing paint job. Pa­tience and at­ten­tion to de­tail are also key in­gre­di­ents.

Better Homes and Gardens (Australia) - - Super Skills -


Dust, dirt and grime will pre­vent paint stick­ing to a sur­face and will ruin the fin­ish, so they must be re­moved. Make up a sugar-soap so­lu­tion and use a bit of el­bow grease to wash ev­ery­thing down. In the kitchen, make sure you re­move any built-up grease. In the bath­room, use a weak bleach so­lu­tion to kill mould be­fore clean­ing.


Cracks and holes in walls should be filled us­ing a suit­able filler, de­pend­ing on their size. Fill gaps be­tween build­ing el­e­ments, such as skirt­ings, ar­chi­traves and walls, with an acrylic gap filler. In ar­eas sub­ject to move­ment, use a polyurethane filler, such as Sikaflex, which is more flex­i­ble. Fill holes in tim­ber us­ing wood putty.


Filler should be sanded back so the sur­face is smooth with its sur­rounds. It’s also im­por­tant to sand pre­vi­ously painted sur­faces to re­move any gloss from them. This helps the fol­low­ing paint coats stick to the old paint. Re­move any dust us­ing a vac­uum and wipe down with a damp cloth to com­pletely re­move dust.


A primer seals new work and helps fol­low­ing paint coats to stick. Spot-prime any filled ar­eas on old work. If you’re plan­ning on us­ing oil-based paint, it’s best to use an oil-based primer. Af­ter it has dried, sand lightly us­ing 180-grit sand­pa­per, es­pe­cially on tim­ber, so the fi­nal coats go onto the smoothest sur­face pos­si­ble.


Stir paint thor­oughly be­fore ap­pli­ca­tion. Ap­ply cor­nice and ceil­ing paint first, then cut in around edges and in cor­ners of the walls with a brush. Use a roller to do the rest of the walls. Fin­ish with the trim, doors and win­dows. Sand lightly be­tween coats to re­move brush strokes and the sheen from gloss and semi-gloss paints.

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