The Midas TOUCH

2020-04-01 -

PAPER For you to note

Papers that work well for marbling are absorbent and contain little to no protective fillers. Rice papers, printmaking papers, blotter paper, drawing paper, charcoal paper and pastel paper work particularly well. Watercolour paper is not recommended. Experiment with different types of paper.

Here’s how

Preparing mordant

A mordant must be used so that the marbled design will adhere to the fibre quickly and permanently.

STEP 1 For paper: dissolve 2 tsp/10g of alum in 950ml warm water. Treated papers should be used within 2 days to ensure the mordant is still effective.

STEP 2 Be sure to stir the solution well to ensure the alum has completely dissolved. Pour prepared Alum solution into a shallow tray or pan. Note: the tray you are using should be large and deep enough to submerge the paper.

STEP 3 Submerge each sheet of paper one at a time into the alum solution. Leave in the solution for 30 minutes, then line dry. Note: if you plan to use the same tray for marbling, be sure to wash tray thoroughly, as residual alum will contaminate carrageenan solution, preventing proper adhesion of marbled design to the paper.

Preparing the marbling base

Carrageenan is a natural seaweed derivative used to thicken water to create the marbling base or ‘size’. STEP 4 For base: slowly add 4 tsp/19g of carrageenan to 3.8L of warm water. Blend for about 10 minutes (or until all carrageenan is dispersed).

For you to note

• Carrageenan may be used immediately, but reaches optimum consistency after 12 hours.

• If hand-mixing with a whisk, make sure there are no clumps. You can also use a 4-litre lidded container and shake the mixture to blend.

• Carrageenan solution will only keep for a few days at room temperature. If it gets mouldy, smells bad or becomes thin, discard. Refrigeration will extend the solution life to a month or more.

STEP 5 When marbling base solution is ready, pour into clean tray. Before applying paint, clean the ‘size’ of any air bubbles and dust by laying newspaper or a paper towel on the surface and dragging it towards you. Skimming prior to adding paint is very important, as it removes any ‘skin’ that prevents the paint from spreading evenly.

Marbling

STEP 6 Begin by gently dropping the paint, one drop at a time, close to the surface of the marbling base. It is recommended to start with black, as it spreads the most. Eye droppers, squeeze bottles, or a paintbrush, straw brush or stylus dipped in paint and flicked are great ways to apply colour.

STEP 7 Marbled designs are created by combing the colours floating on the size. Combinations of combing patterns and techniques result in more intricate designs. After dropping several colours, drag a stylus through the colours in first a horizontal, then a vertical, back-and-forth pattern until it looks how you want.

STEP 8 Hold a sheet of treated paper on opposite corners with a slight upward curve. To prevent air from getting trapped and causing holes in the design, carefully lay the paper down on the surface of the design with the middle of the sheet touching first, then gently let go of the sides so that the paper lays flat on the size surface.

STEP 9 Carefully lift the paper off the size from one edge after a few seconds. Place the print paint-side up on a flat board, or hang to allow print to air-dry completely.

STEP 10 Once dry, rinse the design by running a small stream of water from a tap onto the paper and running your finger lightly

over the print until it no longer feels slippery. Hang or leave flat to dry.

FRAME Here’s how

STEP 1 Remove mat from picture frame. Lay the mat on the self-adhesive paper. Cut the paper slightly larger than the mat.

STEP 2 Peel off the backing from the self-adhesive paper. Carefully adhere the paper to the mat. Smooth out any air bubbles using the edge of a plastic card.

STEP 3 With patternedside down, use craft knife to cut the self-adhesive paper

flush with the outside and inside edges of the mat. STEP 4 Tape desired picture to back of mat. Insert mat into frame.

BOARD Here’s how

STEP 1 Lay the board on the self-adhesive paper and cut the paper slightly larger than the board.

STEP 2 Peel off the backing from the self-adhesive paper. Carefully adhere the paper to the board. Smooth out any air bubbles using the edge of a plastic card.

STEP 3 With patterned-side down, use a craft knife to cut the self-adhesive paper flush with edges of board. STEP 4 Mark the position of handles on top of tray. Drill holes that are slightly smaller than the diameter of the screws where handles will attach. Insert screws through back of board and into the handles on the top of the board.

BEADS Here’s how

STEP 1 Preheat oven according to clay manufacturer’s instructions.

STEP 2 Tear off 2cm-size pieces from 2 colours of polymer clay. Tear off a smaller piece from a third colour. Knead colours together 2-3 times without blending completely.

STEP 3 Roll the clay into a round bead. Use a bamboo skewer to poke a hole through the centre of the bead. Repeat Steps 2 and 3 to form 4 beads.

STEP 4 Line a baking tray with baking paper. Bake beads on tray according to clay manufacturer’s instructions. Allow to cool.

STEP 5 Paint small spots of craft glue onto areas of the rectangle. Tear off a piece of gold leaf and lay it on the wet adhesive. Rub the leaf onto the clay. STEP 6 Thread the beads onto the necklace chain.

BOOKMARK

Here’s how STEP 1 Preheat oven according to clay manufacturer’s instructions.

STEP 2 Tear off pieces from white and gray polymer clay. Knead the colours together and form into a ball. Flatten the ball, then roll it as thin as possible using a rolling pin.

STEP 3 Cut the jagged ends of the clay straight using a craft knife to form a 5 x 15cm rectangle. Punch a hole at the top of the rectangle.

STEP 4 Line a baking tray with baking paper. Bake the rectangle on the lined baking tray according to clay manufacturer’s instructions. Allow to cool.

STEP 5 Paint small spots of craft glue onto a few areas of the rectangle. Tear off a piece of gold leaf and lay it on the wet adhesive. Rub the leaf onto the clay, removing excess. Repeat for each desired spot. Let dry. STEP 6 Tie a piece of gold ribbon through the hole at the top of the bookmark.

COASTERS

Here’s how STEP 1 Roll a 2cm-diameter rod using white clay and a 1cm-diameter rod with each contrasting colour of clay.

STEP 2 Twist the small rods around the large white rod, then roll into a rod until colours begin to blend. Fold the rod in half and twist the halves together. Roll into a rod. Repeat process until satisfied with the marbling.

STEP 3 Roll the clay into a ball. Using a clay roller or rolling pin, roll the clay to 5mm thick.

STEP 4 Cut a circle from the flattened clay using the cookie cutter to make a coaster.

STEP 5 Line a

baking tray with baking paper. Bake according to the clay manufacturer’s instructions. Allow to cool. STEP 6 Paint the edges of the coaster gold. Let dry.

SPOONS

Here’s how

STEP 1 Cut a slice of Fimo clay. A 350g block will make 12 spoons, but the amount needed depends on the size of spoon you want to make.

STEP 2 Split the slice in half and roll one half into a ball. Roll the other half into a long cylinder shape – this will form the spoon handle.

STEP 3 Press your thumb into the ball, working the clay out to create a hollow area for the spoon head.

STEP 4 Join the head and handle together, spreading the clay in both directions at the join so it looks as seamless as possible.

STEP 5 Finish creating the spoon head, working the clay to the desired shape, and making sure the bottom still stays rounded.

STEP 6 Repeat Steps 1-5 to make the rest of your spoons, then place on a lined baking tray and bake for 7 minutes at 110°C. Leave to cool completely. STEP 7 Paint with the patterns of your choice. Use dots and stripes, and mixed paints to achieve the blush pink shade. You may need to apply more than one coat – leave to dry in between each coat, then leave to dry thoroughly before using to make sure it’s food safe.

BOWLS Here’s how

STEP 1 Roll out the air-dry clay to about 5mm thick. You can adjust thickness if you prefer, depending on how delicate you want your bowls to be.

STEP 2 Select a small bowl to use as a mould. Place onto the clay with the rim facing down and cut around the bowl with a sharp knife to create a clay circle.

STEP 3 Line your mould with plastic wrap to make it easier to remove the clay bowl from the mould later. Press the clay circle into the mould, smoothing out any wrinkles and imperfections in the clay with your fingers as you go.

STEP 4 Press one of your buttons into the clay to make an imprint, then carefully remove it. You may want to pass a piece of thread through the button first, making it easier to lift the button from the clay. Repeat to build up a pattern.

STEP 5 Repeat Steps

1-4 with different-sized moulds, and building up a selection of patterns with the buttons to create 3 distinct designs. Let dry.

STEP 6 Remove the bowls from the moulds and lightly sand any rough edges using fine sandpaper.

STEP 7 Apply several coats of acrylic paint to gradually build up your desired colour, leaving to dry in between each coat. Once finished, highlight the imprinted details using a darker shade, then paint the rims with metallic enamel paint.

FEATHERS Here’s how

STEP 1 Using the feather templates (top right), cut out 12 feathers from paper. Place a piece of white clay onto a large square of baking paper and use the roller to roll it 5mm thick. STEP 2 Position feather templates on clay and gently press them into the surface using your fingertips. Use a craft knife to carefully cut around feathers. Remove the waste clay, re-forming it into a ball for your next project. Wrap all feathers, apart from one, in plastic wrap and set aside to prevent them drying out.

STEP 3 Use the knitting needle to draw a line along the length of the feather, following the curve, and finishing it at the point. Use the craft knife to mark the horizontal barbs, cutting them a couple of millimetres deep, and curving the shape to echo that of real feather barbs. Cut away some of the barbs for an imperfect finish.

STEP 4 Use the point of the knitting needle to make a small hole for hanging, 1cm down from the top. Lay the feather out to dry along the length of a rolling pin covered in baking paper, to achieve a curved shape. Repeat Step 3 for the rest of the feathers, making them in batches if you only have one rolling pin to dry them on.

STEP 5 While feathers are drying, apply a thin layer of white paint to the branch. Leave it to dry, apply a second coat, then put it to one side to dry thoroughly.

STEP 6 Use wire cutters to trim away any excess clay from the feathers for a neat finish. Use a fine-tipped paintbrush to paint outer edges of each feather in gold, experimenting with the thickness of the borders for different effects.

STEP 7 Cut lengths of thread to hang the feathers, tying them through the hole at the top of the feather, then around the branch. Space the feathers evenly along the branch, about 5cm apart, and hang at different lengths in

2 loose V shapes.

STEP 8 Wrap one end of the twine around one end of the branch, tie it securely, then repeat on the other end of the branch to finish.