Better Homes and Gardens (Australia)
EASY STEPS TO BUILD A TIMBER PLINTH
top lining boards for top of awning. Make them overhang the front edge by 15mm. For a neat finish to the wall, or the eaves as here, cut top end on a 45° angle. The 2 layers will be slightly different lengths, so check 1 of each on the awning before cuing all of them. Undercoat, then apply 2 coats of exterior paint.
STEP 7 Calculate the gap between the first layer of lining boards, allowing for them to overhang each end by 20mm. Cut a pair of spacing blocks to suit this gap then, starting from 1 end, nail first layer to plywood using 25mm nails.
STEP 8 Aach second layer of lining boards so they cover the gaps between the first and sit evenly over the boards on either side. Use 50mm nails in the nail gun to tie everything together and nail on a slight angle so they don’t poke through the plywood.
STEP 9 Cut side slats to fit along the ends of the awning. Cut an angle on the top so they meet neatly with the lining boards and vary the lengths so they are all in a line at the boom. Pre-paint then nail to ends of frames with 50mm nails in the nail gun.
STEP 10 Fill all nail holes using exterior wood filler. Let dry and then sand smooth. Spot-prime filler and then touch up the awning paintwork.
Gather your supplies
• Blocks and frame 70 x 35mm H3 treated pine
• Post of H4 treated pine sleeper
• 15mm compressed fibre cement sheet
• 40 x 40mm aluminium angle
• 300 x 300mm bluestone pavers
• Slats 66 x 19mm primed treated pine
You’ll also need Drill; 6.5mm masonry drill bit; green plugs; 65mm screws; spirit level; quick set concrete; angle grinder fied with diamond cuing blade; dust mask; high-strength construction adhesive; hacksaw; exterior paint; painting equipment; nail gun and nails; exterior wood filler; sandpaper
For you to note
This projects expands the existing plinth. It involves adding an extra frame to the side, so the overall base width is 30mm less than the width of your paver. Here’s how
STEP 1 To aach extra frame to outside of existing plinth, aach blocks to side flush with front corner brickwork to make up gap between the two. Predrill using a 6.5mm masonry drill bit, insert green wall plugs and screw in place.
STEP 2 Construct frame with a post extended about 300mm at one end to support the outside corner. Cut post out of a treated pine sleeper so it can go in the ground. Dig hole for post. Sit in position, make level with existing plinth and then screw to blocks aached to plinth and to wall of house.
STEP 3 Secure post using quick set concrete.
STEP 4 Cut fibre cement sheet to size needed using an angle grinder fied with a diamond cuing blade. Wear a mask while you do this. Squirt construction adhesive on top of plinth and frame and sit fibre cement on top.
STEP 5 Cut aluminium angle to suit length of plinth next to steps using a hacksaw and then glue in place to cover ugly join between fibre cement and existing plinth.
STEP 6 Spread adhesive on back of pavers and sit on plinth. Make first paver overhang sides of plinth evenly and by same amount at the front. Continue gluing pavers to plinth, cuing the one nearest the house as required.
STEP 7 Cut slats to length and then pre-paint, paying special aention to ends to seal them. Nail slats to sides and front of plinth. Where slats sit over bricks of existing plinth, simply glue them in place, supporting them while the glue dries.
STEP 8 Fill nail holes using exterior wood filler, let dry and then sand smooth. Spot-prime then touch up the paintwork.
STEP 1
It’s not just the greenery you fill your home with that gives you joy – it’s also how you display it. Plant stands can be on a windowsill, a fireplace mantel or even a corner of your bookshelves – all of which are functional, but hardly standouts. But here, you can make a unique pot plant holder out of a copper pipe and recycled timber that will be as stunning as your plants!