Better Homes and Gardens (Australia) - - Outdoor Room -

Gather your sup­plies

Wall plate 140 x 45mm H3 treated pine

Posts 90 x 90 H4 treated pine

Beam 190 x 45mm H3 treated pine

ers and block­ing 140 x 45mm H3 treated pine

Fas­cia 230 x 18mm primed treated pine

Gu er 100mm quad gu er, stop ends, brack­ets, down­pipe out­let and 100 x 50mm down­pipe

Roof­ing Color­bond Steel Trimdek roof sheets and cus­tom-fab­ri­cated barge cap­pings and flash­ings in Mon­u­ment

Ceil­ing Lin­ing Hardiegroo­ve fi­bre ce­ment sheets


You’ll also need Post-hole dig­ger; spirit level; 125 and 100mm ba en screws for treated pine; tim­ber for brac­ing; clamps; cir­cu­lar saw; string­line; slid­ing bevel; builders square; con­crete mix; crow­bar; com­bi­na­tion square; fram­ing nail gun and nails; chalk­line; me­tal strap­ping; ten­sion­ing clips; tim­ber connector nails; Multi-grip con­nec­tors; sark­ing; foil clips; gal­vanised flat head nails; pop riv­ets; pop rivet gun; clear sil­i­cone; tin­snips; wide vice grips; 50mm roof­ing screws; hired panel lier; fi­bre ce­ment screws; an­gle grinder fi ed with a di­a­mond cu ing blade; dust mask; acrylic gap filler; ex­te­rior wood pu y; sand­pa­per; ex­te­rior paint; paint­ing gear

For you to note

Check with your lo­cal coun­cil on per­gola size and po­si­tion reg­u­la­tions, be­fore you start build­ing.

Here’s how

STEP 1 De­ter­mine po­si­tions of posts along the front of the per­gola. Li pavers and dig 800mm deep holes at post po­si­tions us­ing a post-hole dig­ger.

STEP 2 Cut wall plate to go along ex­tent of your per­gola. De­ter­mine height of wall plate, which here al­lows the roof­ing to fit un­der the fas­cia on the house. Hold against the wall, make level and screw into the wall studs us­ing 125mm ba en screws. Use two screws per stud. Use ma­sonry an­chors for brick walls.

STEP 3 Sit un­cut posts into holes at each end of per­gola, make plumb and tem­po­rar­ily brace. Mark level of top of beam on post, which will also be top of post. Al­low at least 50mm of fall on the roof for ev­ery me­tre it spans.

STEP 4 Re­move post and use a cir­cu­lar saw to cut posts to length then cut a 140mm long and 45mm deep re­bate in the top of the posts. Re­po­si­tion posts in holes so re­bates face in­wards, make plumb and brace again.

STEP 5 Sit beam in re­bates on posts, leav­ing it long in case you need to ad­just po­si­tion of the ra ers along it. Make sure it is level, ad­just­ing the length of the posts if nec­es­sary. Clamp to hold.

STEP 6 To get the an­gle to cut on the ends of the ra ers, run a string­line be­tween the top of the beam and the wall plate. Set a slid­ing bevel to the an­gle where the string­line meets the beam and plate then trans­fer this to the ra er. Cut to length.

STEP 7 Li ra er in po­si­tion at end of per­gola, buing the ends into the wall plate and the beam. Screw in po­si­tion to hold us­ing 100mm baen screws. Check your per­gola is square by us­ing builders square in the cor­ner where the ra er meets the beam. If build­ing a per­gola that is open on 3 sides, mea­sure di­ag­o­nals to check they are the same. Ad­just po­si­tion of posts and ra er on beam as re­quired.

STEP 8 To make sure beam is straight, run a string­line along the top cor­ner from end to end. Cut and fit a ra er into the cen­tre of the per­gola so the beam meets the string­line.

STEP 9 Run a string­line be­tween the boom of the end posts then cut and fit in­ter­me­di­ate posts along the beam so they meet the string­line. Make sure they are plumb then screw all posts into the beam.

STEP 10 Con­crete posts in po­si­tion us­ing a crow­bar to make sure the con­crete is thor­oughly mixed. Leave to set.

STEP 11 Along faces of beam and wall plate, mark out po­si­tions of ra ers us­ing a com­bi­na­tion square. Space ra ers about 600mm apart. Also po­si­tion ra ers so that the edges of the sheets that will line the un­der­side of the per­gola will sit on the cen­tre of a ra er, in­stalling ex­tra ra ers if re­quired. Nail to hold and then screw to beam and wall plate us­ing baen screws.

STEP 12 Along un­der­side of ra ers, use a chalk­line to mark po­si­tion of block­ing that fits be­tween the ra ers. Po­si­tion block­ing so an edge of the ceil­ing lin­ing will sit along the cen­tre of the block­ing. Cut block­ing and nail in po­si­tion so it is in a straight line. Be­fore fiing last block­ing piece, run a string­line along the end ra er to en­sure it is straight, cuing the block­ing to suit.

STEP 13 Run me­tal strap­ping di­ag­o­nally across the top of ra ers to brace the struc­ture. Nail at each end then use ten­sion­ing clips to make it tight. Nail through strap­ping into ra ers us­ing tim­ber connector nails.

STEP 14 At junc­tion be­tween ra ers and the wall plate and beam, aach Multi-grip con­nec­tors, nail­ing into both mem­bers with connector nails.

STEP 15 Roll out sark­ing across top of ra ers. Start at boom of roof, al­low­ing the sark­ing to over­hang the out­side of the posts by about 70mm. Hold sark­ing in place us­ing foil clips. Work your way up the roof, over­lap­ping the sark­ing as you go.

STEP 16 Cut fas­cia to fit along front and side of per­gola. Cut on a 45-de­gree an­gle at the cor­ners to form a mitred join and to width so it will over­hang the boom of the beam by 20mm. Where the fas­cia spans be­tween the posts, nail blocks to the beam to pro­vide some­thing solid to nail the fas­cia to. STEP 17 Along fas­cia use a chalk­line to mark out for the boom of the guer brack­ets. Make the guer fall a min­i­mum of 2mm for ev­ery me­tre of length, al­though a lile more is beer. Nail brack­ets to fas­cia with flat heads nails, spac­ing them about a me­tre apart.

STEP 18 Fix stop ends to guer us­ing pop riv­ets. Drill holes for riv­ets through the guer into the stop ends then in­sert riv­ets and

tighten us­ing a pop rivet gun. Smear sil­i­cone around the in­side of the gu er to seal the join.

STEP 19 Cut hole for the down­pipe out­let in the bo om of the gu er near the down­hill end. Sit the out­let up­side down on the in­side of the gu er and trace the in­side of the


out­let on it. Drill a large hole to al­low ac­cess for your tin­snips, then cut out. Sit out­let in­side then pop rivet and sil­i­cone as you did for the stop end.

STEP 20 Sit gu er in­side brack­ets on fas­cia. Bend spig­ots on top of the brack­ets down over the gu er to hold it in place. STEP 21 Us­ing wide vice grips, bend up the back end of the trays in the roof­ing to stop wa­ter over­flow­ing the top edge of the roof­ing. STEP 22 Li roof­ing onto per­gola so it over­hangs into gu er by 50mm and is square to per­gola. Screw through ribs of roof­ing into beam and rows of block­ing be­tween the raers us­ing roof­ing screws.

STEP 23 Mea­sure up roof for barge cap­ping to cover the join where the roof­ing meets the side of the per­gola and also flash­ings that will cover the join where the roof­ing meets the house to pre­vent wa­ter en­try there. Have these el­e­ments fab­ri­cated by your roof­ing sup­plier. Screw through cap­ping and flash­ing into ribs of roof­ing and sil­i­cone where these el­e­ments meet to pre­vent wa­ter en­try.

STEP 24 Have your elec­tri­cian run ca­bles for the light­ing and any other elec­tri­cal el­e­ments.

STEP 25 Us­ing a hired panel lier, li ceil­ing sheets into po­si­tion on un­der­side of raers. Screw sheets in place us­ing fi­bre ce­ment screws. To cut sheets to fit, use an an­gle grinder fi ed with a di­a­mond cu ing blade or a cir­cu­lar saw with a fi­bre ce­ment cu ing blade. Make sure you wear a dust mask while do­ing this.

STEP 26 Fill gaps around your per­gola with an acrylic gap filler. Fill nail holes us­ing an ex­te­rior wood pu y and sand smooth. Ap­ply 2 coats of ex­te­rior paint to per­gola and ceil­ing, al­low­ing it to dry aer each coat.

STEP 27 Get your elec­tri­cian back to in­stall light fi ings.






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