Better Homes and Gardens (Australia)
STEPS for your mindful makes
Crafts to keep you occupied in the most enjoyable of ways
Here’s how
STEP 1 Using Embroidered bouquet diagram (see page 176), trace pa ern onto fabric using the fabric marker. The easiest way to do this is to tape the pa ern to a window (or similar light source) with the fabric right side out on top before tracing. With the design centred, secure fabric between the inner and outer embroidery hoops, tightening the hoop’s screw as you pull the fabric taut.
STEP 2 Using 1 strand of very dark cocoa thread (09), fill daisy centres with seed stitches (lots of tiny straight stitches). Work petals using satin stitch and 1 strand of thread, alternating the colours of each petal between shrimp (20) and light apricot (3824).
STEP 3 Outline petals of flamingo feather plants in 1 strand of salmon (760), using lazy daisy stitches for the centre-most petals and fly stitches for the petals above and below. Fill in each petal with 1 or 2 straight stitches using 2 strands of salmon (760), following the direction of the petal.
STEP 4 Outline peony petals with whipped backstitch using light shell pink (224). Use 1 strand for the base layer of backstitch and 2 strands for the whipped layer.
STEP 5 Fill in the peony petals with satin stitch and 2 strands of very light shell pink (225).
STEP 6 Fill in the inner part of the variegated leaves using fishbone stitch and 1 strand of fern green (524). For the outer part of leaves, use satin stitch in 1 strand of very light brown (613). Try to keep angle of stitches on inner and outer parts of leaves the same.
STEP 7 Embroider centre of the anemones using French knots in 1 strand of beige-grey (644). Next, fill in petals with a combination of long and short stitches using 2 strands of blanc (white). Using stitches of varying lengths helps them blend together in an organic way.
STEP 8 Using 2 strands of light jade (563), fill in large leaves using fishbone stitch and branches of these leaves in stem stitch.
STEP 9 Using 1 strand of grass green (505), embroider the thin leaves with a combination of long and short stitches and the branches using stem stitch.
STEP 10 Add the berries using French knots. Use 6 strands of very dark grey-green (924) for the larger ones and 3 strands of the same colour for the smaller ones.
STEP 11 Use stem stitch and 1 strand of very dark cocoa (09) to embroider berry branches.
STEP 12 Stitch loose French knots to create clusters of tiny textured flowers, as shown. Use 2 strands each of salmon (760) and very light shell pink (225) for the larger ones, and 1 strand each of very light shell pink (225) and blanc (white) for the smaller ones. To create a loose knot, don’t hold excess thread tightly once thread is wound around your needle. Draw needle through fabric as usual.
STEP 13 Outline hands and fingers using stem stitch and 1 strand of very dark cocoa (09). Fill in fingernails using satin stitch and 1 strand of very light shell pink (225). Fill in some
flower stems using satin stitch in 2 strands of either fern green (524) or light jade (563). Fill in rest of stems with a combo of short and long stitches in 1 strand of either very dark cocoa (09) or grass green (505). STEP 14 Once embroidery is done, use a hairdryer to blow hot air over fabric, removing visible pen marks. Cut excess fabric around hoop, leaving a 3cm border, then sew running stitch around border fabric. Pull thread tight to gather fabric at back of hoop, then knot threads to secure.
STEP 15 Neaten back of embroidery by gluing a felt circle to back of hoop.
For you to note
Use 2 strands of thread throughout.
Here’s how
STEP 1 Transfer Queen bee diagram (see page 176) onto fabric using marker. The easiest way is to tape design with fabric on top to a light source – a window during the daylight hours or a light box.
STEP 2 Separate hoop, then place fabric over inner hoop with design facing up. Place outer hoop over the top, adjusting fabric to make sure design is centred. Tighten screw at top of hoop and pull fabric taut.
STEP 3 Start by filling in black section of bee with vertical satin stitch. Try to stay within design lines to outline curved shapes for the gold thread sections.
STEP 4 Use black thread and stem stitch to stitch over bee’s legs and antenna.
STEP 5 Using gold thread and vertical satin stitch, fill in remaining 3 body sections of bee.
STEP 6 Stitch bee’s wings using gold thread and stem stitch, making sure to cover marked line.
STEP 7 Using pink thread, stitch a woven wheel within the bo om circle to create a rose.
STEP 8 Work flowers at either side of the rose in lazy daisy stitch, using yellow thread.
STEP 9 To fill in leaves, use green thread and start with 1 vertical straight stitch from top of leaf to a third of the way down the centre. Then use diagonal straight stitches to the middle, following the curve, until first side is complete. Repeat Step 9 to fill in second side, matching stitches to the opposite side to create a nice curved line down centre of leaf.
STEP 10 With cream thread and vertical satin stitch, fill in the bee’s fluffy bo om. You can also use this thread to add centres to the flowers by stitching tiny Xs.
STEP 11 To finish, trim excess fabric to 2.5cm around hoop, then work running stitch around fabric. Pull thread ends taut to gather fabric at back of hoop, then knot threads to secure. If you wish, neaten the back with a circle of felt glued to back of hoop.
Here’s how
STEP 1 Transfer Happy feet diagram (see page 176) onto 1 fabric piece with a pencil. The easiest method is to tape the design (with the white fabric) on to a window during daylight hours. The light makes the diagram’s design lines visible and easier to trace on the fabric.
STEP 2 Secure fabric with traced design in hoop, making sure it is centred and pulled taut.
STEP 3 Using 3 strands of tan (842) thread, backstitch trouser creases, then use vertical satin stitch to fill in trouser cuffs.
STEP 4 Next, use horizontal satin stitch to fill trouser legs, working around the backstitches.
STEP 5 Fill tile paern’s circles using 3 strands of light grey green (927) thread and vertical satin stitch. Start in the centre of the circle and work out towards the right, then work from the centre to the le.
STEP 6 Add petals around circles using 3 strands of very dark grey green (924) thread and satin stitch. Start at tip and stitch towards circle for a neat finish.
STEP 7 Using 3 strands of blush (758) thread, satin stitch top part of trainers. Add boom laces in satin stitch first, then work top laces in satin stitch to cross over for a realistic look.
STEP 8 Using blush (758) thread, work French knots to make trainer lace holes.
STEP 9 Going back to tiles, use 3 strands of medium grey green (926) thread and satin stitch to fill all diamond shapes. Start in middle of each and, satin stitching horizontally, work outwards.
STEP 10 For final floor detail, use 3 strands of dusty rose (356) thread to satin stitch each of the 4-triangle clusters. To keep floor tiles consistent, make sure to satin stitch all triangles in the same horizontal direction.
STEP 11 Use 2 strands of blush (758) thread and satin stitch to fill in the rest of the trainers. Work the outside of each shoe in horizontal satin stitch and the tongue in vertical satin stitch to create definition.
STEP 12 Remove embroidery from hoop.
Place second piece of white coon fabric over wrong side of stitching. Re-frame fabric pieces and tighten the hoop, pulling the fabrics taut. Trim fabric about 1cm wider than hoop, then glue excess to inside of hoop at the back to finish.
STEP 13 Neaten back of embroidery by gluing cut felt to back of hoop.
Here’s how
STEP 1 Lay out the sew-in interfacing and place Fabric A on top, right side (RS) up. Place dressmaker’s carbon, dark side down, onto fabric, then place the Embroidered portrait diagram (see page 176) on top. Trace around the top and hair. Repeat this step to transfer the face onto Fabric C.
STEP 2 Fold 1 long edge of Fabric B to the wrong side (WS). Holding the interfacing to back of Fabric A, applique the top in place by first arranging Fabric B along marked line. Then, working 1mm in from Fabric B’s folded edge and making pleats as you go, embroider top in place using split stitch and 3 strands of emerald green (911) thread.
STEP 3 Trim any excess from Fabric B to align it with boom edge of Fabric A.
STEP 4 Using a hot dry iron, press fusible interfacing to back of Fabric C. Cut out face shape, 1mm away from marked line. Position face in place just above applique top and press as before to aach face to Fabric A. Place fabric in hoop, centering the image before tightening the hoop’s screw as you pull fabric taut.
STEP 5 Using 1 strand of dark brown (3371), use split stitch to embroider all outlines of face, except lips. Work carefully so as not to fray fabric edge. For brows, use small straight stitches to create tiny hair strands.
STEP 6 Embroider the lips in satin stitch using salmon (760) thread. Start by embroidering the top lip, then the boom lip.
STEP 7 Blend all shades of brown and black wool roving by pulling the fibres apart, then adding them back together. Place felting pad under the hoop/fabric directly under hair marked on fabric. Lay some of this blended wool roving inside hair area. Felt wool into the fabric by repeatedly poking felting needle through both layers.
STEP 8 Once hair area is covered, make a ball of wool slightly smaller than the bun. Felt it on top of the bun.
STEP 9 Blend and mould roving into thin lengths to get different tones of dreadlocks (or locs). The
locs shown are 2-3mm thick. Lay them on felting pad and felt with felting needle. STEP 10 Place a loc over bun, then felt ends of loc to edges of bun to secure it in place. Repeat for remaining locs, placing them in different directions.
STEP 11 To finish project, trim fabric around the hoop, leaving a 4cm border all around. Sew running stitch around edge, pull thread then tie a knot to secure fabric gathers in place. Glue a felt circle to back of hoop.
NEEDLEPUNCH RUG
Gather your supplies
• Oxford punch needle, #10 regular
• Chunky yarn, selection of colours
• 23cm embroidery hoop
• 85 x 55cm plain flatweave rug
• Erasable fabric-marker pen
• Embroidery scissors
For you to note
There are two techniques used – tuing and finger loops. Finger loops are worked on long straight lines and tuing is worked for triangular shapes and sections. Punch tued parts of design first.
Here’s how
STEP 1 Using the main image as a guide, or from your own design, mark out needle punch pa ern on wrong side (WS) of rug. Separate inner and outer rings of hoop then, with rug WS up, place first section over inner ring. Place outer ring on top and tighten screw, then use both hands to pull edge of rug, making fabric as taut as possible in hoop.
STEP 2 Thread yarn end through eye of needle so tail is poking out the non-slo ed side.
STEP 3 Rest yarn along slot of needle and slide it in by alternately pulling tail and ball end.
STEP 4 To begin, hold needle in direction you want to punch with slot facing you, then, at start of a marked line, push it firmly into rug fabric right down to the wooden handle.
STEP 5 Pull needle up slowly and, when tip just leaves rug fabric, drag it along line ever so slightly and, keeping it as close to rug fabric as possible, then push it down again. The stitches need to be roughly the same length and close together so there won’t be any gaps between them. When finishing a row of punching, snip yarn off close to rug and use close end of a pair of embroidery scissors to push yarn tail through to right side (RS).
STEP 6 For triangular outlines, work 2 rows next to each other, staggering stitches like teeth in a zip. This helps ‘zip’ together stitches and hide any gaps on RS. For triangles, punch outline first, then fill in rest of shape working in towards centre.
STEP 7 Once all tued sections of rug are completed, start working on long straight lines of finger loops. Punch into rug fabric as per Step 4, but use your other hand to hold onto yarn on RS of rug as you pull needle back through. This will extend the length of the loop. Continue as before, turning rug over while punching to ensure loops are the same height.
STEP 8 When finishing a row of finger loops, snip yarn off on WS of rug to about same length as loops then push yarn tail through to RS. Trim tail even with loops on RS of rug.
STEP 9 Once needle punching is complete, turn the rug RS up. To complete the tued sections, individually cut each loop. STEP 10 Trim cut loops to desired height. To finish, trim any loose threads. Use a lint roller or vacuum to remove yarn ends or fuzz.
Cu ing instructions Here’s how
STEP 1 Using the Patchwork tote diagrams (see page 176), cut the following pa ern pieces:
Template A – 3 x Fabric A; 2 x Fabric B; 2 x Fabric C. Template B – 7 x Fabric D; 7 x Fabric E.
STEP 2 Cut a 14 x 14cm square from each of Fabric D and E.
Orange peel blocks Here’s how
STEP 3 Fold one Fabric A piece in half, right sides (RS) together, and press firmly along the fold to mark the centre crease, as shown. Fold one Fabric D piece in half, RS together, and mark the centre crease, as before.
STEP 4 Pin Fabric A and Fabric D pieces RS together,
matching centre creases and raw edges, as shown.
NOTE Pin from centre out, easing pins around curve and being careful not to stretch fabric. There will be a small amount of Fabric D overhang at both ends.
STEP 5 Using a 5mm seam allowance, sew slowly along pinned edge, adjusting fabric to the right position as oen as necessary. Press seam open. Repeat Steps 4 and 5 to add a Fabric E piece along remaining raw edge of Fabric A shape. Trim completed Orange peel block to 14cm square.
STEP 6 Repeat Steps 4 and 5, using the remaining Template A and B pieces to create: 2 more Orange peel blocks using Fabrics A, D and E (total of 3); 2 Orange peel blocks using Fabrics B and D; and 2 Orange peel blocks using Fabrics C and E. Lay out the Orange peel blocks as shown, including the squares made in Step 2. STEP 7 Sew top row of Orange peel blocks RS together, using a 5mm seam allowance. Press seams open. Repeat for remaining rows, taking care to match the seams. Then sew rows together to finish ‘quilt’ top. STEP 8 Lay backing fabric
RS down and place wadding on top. Add quilt top, RS up and centred, on top of the wadding. Pin or tack the layers together to make a quilt ‘sandwich’.
STEP 9 Using Hera marker (or the dull side of a bu er knife) and quilting ruler, mark diagonal lines across this quilt sandwich through centre of each Orange peel block. This ensures straight, crisp quilting paths when sewing.
STEP 10 Using the DMC Co on Perle thread, quilt along the marked lines using running stitch through all 3 layers of quilt top. When finished, trim off any excess wadding and backing fabric and square up quilt corners.
STEP 11 Cut binding fabric in half to make 2 strips, each 6 x 110cm. Place a short end of each strip right sides (RS) together at a 90° angle, creating an L shape. Sew across corner along the diagonal to create a bias seam, trim seam allowance to 5mm, then press seam open to create one long strip. Fold binding in half along length with WS together and press.
STEP 12 Starting halfway along 1 edge of quilt, align raw edges of binding strip with raw edges of quilt. Leave roughly 10cm of binding, then sew binding to quilt front, stitching through all layers, stopping 6mm from quilt corner. Backstitch and trim threads. Remove quilt from under presser foot. Fold binding strip upwards and away from quilt at right angles to create a diagonal fold. Finger press. Holding fold in place with your finger, bring binding strip down in line with next edge, making a horizontal fold that aligns with quilt edge. Start stitching again at top of horizontal fold, stitching through all layers. Repeat for each corner. Stop roughly 10cm short of binding end. Press under 1cm on raw edge on 1 end of binding and encase remaining raw end of binding strip inside folded end. Continue stitching until you reach the starting point.
STEP 13 Fold binding over to quilt back; hand-stitch it in place, catching backing fabric and binding but not going through to quilt front. Neatly fold down binding at each mitred corner and secure in place with a couple of stitches.
STEP 14 Place completed quilt on front of your tote bag and pin in place using safety pins. If your tote has 2 layers of fabric, take care not to pin through both layers. Hand-sew quilt to tote along inner frame of binding with a tiny stitch every 1cm or so, hiding any knots between the quilt and the tote.
For you to note
Ramie fabric is a linen-like fibre made from the stalk of the Chinese ne le plant (Boehmeria nivea). It’s similar to European ne le, but doesn’t have prickles. Repeated washing makes it so¡er, smoother and more lustrous. Easy-care, it also holds its shape well. If you wish, you can substitute ramie fabric with heavier-weight linens or back quilting co ons with fusible interfacing.
Here’s how
STEP 1 For the handle, cut a 25 x 12cm piece each from Fabric A and mediumweight interfacing. Using a hot dry iron, fuse the interfacing to the wrong side (WS) of fabric. Fold fabric in half along length, right sides (RS) together, then pin and sew along the open long edge.
STEP 2 Turn the handle RS out and press so seam runs down the centre of 1 side — this will be the back of the handle. Topstitch down each long edge, 1cm in from both edges. Fold both short edges to the back and press, then fold to the back again, this time by 2.5cm, and press. Pin or clip ends in place, then put the handle to one side.
Make extra patchwork squares and sew together for a fun piece of wall art
STEP 3 For box, cut 4 squares, each 31 x 31cm, from Fabrics A and B. Cut 2 squares, each 31 x 31cm, from Fabrics C and D. Cut 6 squares, each 31 x 31cm, from medium-weight interfacing and 6 squares, each 29 x 29cm, from heavy-weight interfacing.
STEP 4 Place a Fabric B square RS down. Centering it, place a heavy-weight interfacing on top. Lay a square of medium-weight interfacing on top. Making sure to also iron around all 4 edges, carefully press layers in place to fuse the interfacing to the fabric. This piece will form 1 outer side of your storage box. Repeat this step with a second square of Fabric B. You now have 2 Fabric B sides.
STEP 5 Using Fabric A, repeat Step 4 to create 2 Fabric A sides. Using the same method, create 1 Fabric C side and a Fabric D side.
STEP 6 With both RS up, pin handle to centre of Fabric D side. To aach handle, sew a rectangle shape at both short ends of handle, then sew 2 diagonal lines from corner to corner within each rectangle for added security.
STEP 7 Lay out fabric sides in a T-shape, as shown, positioning Fabric D side with handle at the top.
STEP 8 Cut 2 pockets from Fabric A, each 23 x 31cm. On 1 of the pocket pieces, press a 1cm double hem to WS. The hem is made on 1 long edge of pocket piece. Topstitch about 7.5mm from folded edge to secure hem. With raw edges even and both fabrics RS up, pin or clip pocket on Fabric A side (situated at top right of
T-shirt shape). NOTE The Fabric B square at centre of T-shape will become base of box so boom edge of pocket should sit next to it.
STEP 9 To construct box, sew the long centre column of squares together first. To do this, place top 2 squares RS together then, using a 1cm seam, sew along adjoining edge. Repeat to add third square down from the top onto second square, then the fourth square onto the third. Sew the sides the same way.
STEP 10 Li sides up and around centre Fabric B square with RS facing in. Pin or clip, then sew the sides together with a 1cm seam, leaving the top of the box (Fabric A side) free. Turn box RS out.
STEP 11 Aligning edges, pin zip around top of box sides RS together, as shown. Zip should start and finish at sides next to Fabric A top, as the other half of the zip will be aached to the top later.
STEP 12 Lay out remaining fabric squares as per Step 7 – these will form the box lining. Repeat Step 8 to create an inside pocket and sew as per Steps 9-10, leaving box WS out. Place box outer inside lining, RS together and matching the side seams, top and boom. Adjust pins/clips around top raw edge so the zip is sandwiched between outer and lining fabrics, then sew just in from the edge using a zipper foot.
STEP 13 Turn box RS out through the top, positioning the lining on the outside. Open the zip, then pin the unsewn side to edge of the top’s outer fabric, RS together. The outer and lining fabrics should be WS together with raw edges even. Sew all 3 edges. STEP 14 To finish raw edges of box top, sandwich them between a length of bias binding, pinning it in place as you go. Sew, then turn through to the RS to finish, pushing out all the corners.