How do we get around?
Renting a car in Italy is—what’s the Italian word?— a nightmare, both when it comes to actual driving (have fun navigating roads built in 1,000 A.D.) and cost: There’s a premium on cars with automatic transmission, supplemental insurance is mandatory and runs up to $25 a day, and gas is two to three times greater than the price in the U.S. So take public transportation. Hop on a train for an hour from Milano Centrale to Brescia, then connect to the hourly Treno del Nord, which travels the entire 15 ½-mile length of Iseo’s eastern shore. Once you’ve arrived, public ferries can shuttle you around the lake and to nearby villages. Cycling is also popular (iseobike.com; starting at $10 per hour).