THE MACHINES

• The Gaggia Classic Evo Pro (from $449) is the latest version of what Bagnoli from Chris’ Coffee calls “almost everyone’s entry-level machine if they are truly getting into home espresso.” Unlike many betterknown rivals, the Gaggia Classic carries commercial-grade internal parts made of metal, not plastic, and has been refined to better control pressure. But it seems almost designed to be a way station. It will brew any type of bean, but you’ll have to work at it. The small single boiler offers only rudimentary temperature control, and steaming milk is a struggle. There’s little room for precision here; only the slimmest of scales will fit beneath your cup.

• Heat exchanger espresso machines such as the Rocket Appartamento TCA ($2,200) use a steam boiler for the milk that simultaneously heats water for the coffee as it passes through in a pipe. Its electronic temperature control is much more precise and easier to work with than the mechanical switches commonly deployed in these machines. Ultimately, the Appartamento will probably satisfy most home baristas. The machine, however, will shut down midshot when the water tank runs low, and the steam wand was a little too long for me.

• The twin-boiler Lelit Bianca ($3,000, opening page) was one of the first models for home kitchens to mount a paddle at the top to help you control the water flow. Mastering the paddle takes time, but it’s otherwise easy to use. It adapts nicely to your kitchen: You can move the water tank to suit the space or plumb the machine directly to your home’s water line. Its electronic control center lets you program changes in temperature and make limited adjustments to the flow while brewing the coffee.