Business Traveller (Asia-Pacific)
TASTE TAIPEI
Reggie Ho goes on a tantalising culinary journey in the Taiwanese capital
OLD
DIN TAI FUNG
This international chain of restaurants began life as a humble little cooking oil retailer. But in the 1970s, factory-produced tinned oil became the norm and this family shop was struggling. In the ‘80s it began selling xiao long bao (steamed pork dumplings) to support its flailing business, but this side operation quickly became its mainstay. Din Tai Fung became a fully-fledged restaurant by the decade’s end and there are currently nine locations in Taiwan. In the early 2000s, it opened its first overseas branch in Hong Kong and since then it has also expanded to Mainland China as well as eight other countries including Japan, Singapore, South Korea, Indonesia and the US. But loyalists still swear by the flagship in Xinyi district, where a queue is constantly seen as it has been for decades. The xiao long bao (NT$200/US$6.7, 10 pieces) is, of course, a must, but there are plenty other dishes to choose from, ranging from house steamed chicken soup, sautéed shrimp and various types of steamed buns to fried rice and soup noodles. The Taiwanese beef noodles (NT$220/ US$7.4) here are so good we lick the bowl clean every time.
NEW
NUAGE
Located in the Neihu Technology Park, about 20 minutes’ taxi ride from Taipei 101, international tapas bar Nuage was opened 18 months ago by a young entrepreneur and Sex and the City fan. Like the four main characters in the famous TV series and movie franchise, she and her friends love hanging out at trendy restaurants and that passion has resulted in this three-storey restaurant. The ground floor has a solid communal table for groups or people to share; the first floor has seating for various group sizes while the second floor features a lovely terrace with a bar. Thirty-something head chef Maxine Lo may be young, but she has had solid experience in Continental cooking, including a stint at L’Institut Paul Bocuse. Since Taiwan places a lot of restrictions on food importation, she uses a lot of local produce. We tried the deep-fried green peppers with garnished peppercorns (NT$150/US$5), sautéed assorted mushrooms (NT$220/US$6.7) and crispy Italian bread with homemade sundried tomato (NT$160/US$5.4), with every dish simply perfect in texture and seasoning. On the drink side, there is everything from beer and Japanese sake to wine and single-malt whiskies (starting from NT$220/US$7.4 for a glass of 18 year old Glenfiddich). You can also sample special cocktails such as gin and tonic with Earl Grey tea (NT$250/US$8.4), a combination we never thought would go down so well.
BORROWED L’ATELIER DE JOËL ROBUCHON A TAIPEI
If there is a restaurant by Robuchon in town, you know there’s a culinary treat in store. Located on the fifth floor of upscale shopping centre Bellavita, this L’atelier branch is helmed by Xavier Boyer, who has worked for the legendary chef for 12 years. The look and feel of the restaurant is consistent with its sister venues globally, and the food adheres to the French technique Robuchon is famous for, although local vegetables and fish are sometimes incorporated. An experience here starts from NT$1,380 (US$46.5) for amuse-bouche, appetiser, main of your choice and dessert with tea or coffee. Dishes such as le melon with Parma ham, honeydew and figs, and le boeuf (beef cheeks braised in red wine) cost extra. The ultimate indulge is the menu decouverte at NT$6,880 (US$232), with seven courses such as la langoustine,
l’oursins (Hokkaido scallops) and la caille (caramelised foie gras stuffed with quail meat and served with mashed potato) in addition to amuse-bouche, sorbet and tea or coffee. There is also a Salon de The de Joel Robuchon on the third floor of the mall for high tea and pastries.
VIEW
SHIN YEH @ TAIPEI 101
A branch of one of the most established dining groups of Taiwan, this restaurant has something that its sister outlets don’t have: a covetable location on the 85th floor of Taipei 101. From its address, one would presume it can be accessed via the building’s mall, but you have to enter the office tower lobby, take an escalator to reach the reception desk, where – after confirming your booking with the maitre d’ – you take an elevator to the 60th floor to change to another elevator for the restaurant. There are several eateries on the same floor, too, so be ready to encounter crowds of diners on your way up. All is forgiven on arrival, as the interior of the restaurant is very elegant, and the view is spectacular. Our deep-fried baby oysters with basil (NT$320/US$10.7) were perfectly crusty on the outside and full of flavour inside, while the wok-seared chicken with basil and ginger in claypot (NT$680/US$22.9) was hearty and with very tender meat. The minimum charge per head is rather high, however, at NT$880 (US$29.6) for lunch, NT$1,280 (US$43.1) for dinner and NT1,800 (US$60.6) for a window-side table. Be mindful, too, of the hidden costs: our pot of jasmine tea came to NT$220 (US$7).