WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK
Menus on the Cape tend to cater for nostalgic New Englanders, comprising clam chowder, oysters, fried clams, lobster rolls and “scrod” (cod). There are now six microbreweries on the Cape, including the Naukabout Beer Company (naukabout.com), which has an atmospheric tap room (bar) in Mashpee. Here is my pick of the scores of Cape restaurants I’ve tried recently.
When you’re driving the length of the Cape, these two new diners are worth seeking out. Chatham Filling Station (chathamfillingstation.com) on Route 28 has a retro Americana look, but a modern take on Southern cooking; try the grits (like polenta), the linguica (a Portuguese-style sausage) or a popover (Yorkshire pudding). Sunbird Kitchen (birdinthesun.com) on Route 6A in Orleans is one of the few hipster-style canteens on the Cape, with a menu that wouldn’t be out of place in Brooklyn: banh mi rolls, excellent kimchi and fish tacos.
For the best array of bars and tourist restaurants on the Cape, head to Provincetown. If you want a fast and inexpensive bite to eat, The Canteen (thecanteenptown. com) is styled like a pop-up with its outdoor bench seating, but is now a fixture for its excellent breakfast dishes such as shakshuka, lunches of lobster rolls and evening cuisines ranging from Mexican to Japanese. For light meals and drinks, Strangers & Saints (strangersandsaints.com) has Mediterranean-inspired dishes and is a great vantage point for Commercial Street. Nearby Spindler’s
(spindlersptown.com) offers a tasty New England menu.
Garde East (gardeeast.com) in Vineyard Haven has it all: a great harbour view, slick service and modern dishes, such as raw scallop with dried squid ink and olive oil caviar.
36 FROM TOP: The tap room at the Naukabout Beer Company; Chatham Filling Station; lobster roll