Business Traveller (Asia-Pacific)

Ecriture; Shè

- Michael Allen

Backed by Hong Kong hospitalit­y group Le Comptoir, Ecriture is located on the 26th floor of H Queen’s in Hong Kong’s Central district. Unlike many Hong Kong restaurant­s, the tables are spread far apart, ensuring a high level of privacy.

A highlight of the multi-course meal was the Hokkaido aka uni, made with watercress jelly, diced celtuce and warm sweetcorn foam with seaweed. This was paired with a side dish made of fine de claire oyster from France, pickled daikon and seaweed, served with seawater.

Another interestin­g dish was the akamutsu fish from Japan’s east coast, wrapped with seaweed (from Brittany, France) and verbena, steamed in a pot with heated stones and poured over sake for three minutes. The fish is served with “fish milk”, which is made only with simmered akamutsu and a touch of lemon juice.

Service is unhurried. Our meal began at 7.30pm and did not finish until gone 11pm. The gaps between courses were a little too long for my liking, but the waiters were excellent, knowledgea­ble and appeared genuinely passionate about the food. They also dished out just the right dose of French wit and humour alongside the courses.

VERDICT For leisurely, drawn-out fine dining with exceptiona­l service, this is a good spot.

HOURS

Mon-Sat 12-2.30pm and 6.30-10.30pm; closed on Sundays, open on public holidays.

PRICE

HK$488 (US$62) for the three-course Calligraph­y Menu, HK$688 for the five-course Calligraph­y Menu, HK$1,588 for the Library of Flavours Menu.

CONTACT

26th floor, H Queen’s, 80 Queens Road Central, Hong Kong; +852 2795 5996; lecomptoir.hk/ ecriture/

 ??  ??
 ??  ??

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Australia