Business Traveller (Asia-Pacific)
Ecriture; Shè
Backed by Hong Kong hospitality group Le Comptoir, Ecriture is located on the 26th floor of H Queen’s in Hong Kong’s Central district. Unlike many Hong Kong restaurants, the tables are spread far apart, ensuring a high level of privacy.
A highlight of the multi-course meal was the Hokkaido aka uni, made with watercress jelly, diced celtuce and warm sweetcorn foam with seaweed. This was paired with a side dish made of fine de claire oyster from France, pickled daikon and seaweed, served with seawater.
Another interesting dish was the akamutsu fish from Japan’s east coast, wrapped with seaweed (from Brittany, France) and verbena, steamed in a pot with heated stones and poured over sake for three minutes. The fish is served with “fish milk”, which is made only with simmered akamutsu and a touch of lemon juice.
Service is unhurried. Our meal began at 7.30pm and did not finish until gone 11pm. The gaps between courses were a little too long for my liking, but the waiters were excellent, knowledgeable and appeared genuinely passionate about the food. They also dished out just the right dose of French wit and humour alongside the courses.
VERDICT For leisurely, drawn-out fine dining with exceptional service, this is a good spot.
HOURS
Mon-Sat 12-2.30pm and 6.30-10.30pm; closed on Sundays, open on public holidays.
PRICE
HK$488 (US$62) for the three-course Calligraphy Menu, HK$688 for the five-course Calligraphy Menu, HK$1,588 for the Library of Flavours Menu.
CONTACT
26th floor, H Queen’s, 80 Queens Road Central, Hong Kong; +852 2795 5996; lecomptoir.hk/ ecriture/