Trek to the tip
Cape York is a 4WDer's holy grail, best enjoyed when you’re prepared, writes
It’s one of the gnarliest roads you’ll ever take, with deep creek crossings, unforeseen obstacles, crocs, fires and very limited supplies. But all of that is exactly why so many adventurous families embark on the Old Telegraph Track, on Cape York Peninsula. It’s remote, wild and challenging, and you’ll need to do some serious planning and prepping before you head off. Here’s what you need to know before you go.
The Old Tele Track (OTT) starts at Bramwell Junction and ends after the Nolan’s Brook crossing. Some sections are deeply rutted, others are soft sand or mud, and you’ll find both shallow, rocky creek crossings and water so deep it can soak your socks. Take it easy, and if you’re unsure about any section, backtrack to an easier bypass or the safer (although less interesting) Peninsula Developmental Road (PDR).
Your 4WD will need to be ready, and that means, at a minimum, you’ll want to carry a snatch strap in case you or another vehicle gets into a sticky spot (have it up the front of the car, not inaccessible in the boot). If you can afford a winch, it will make 4WD recoveries a lot easier. Carry two spare tyres, or at least one plus a puncture repair kit. And ensure your vehicle is fitted with a snorkel for those water crossings. Don’t forget satellite radios to communicate with other 4WDers and a fully stocked first-aid kit. The more prepared you are, the more comfortable you’ll feel.
You’ll need to carry your food and drinking water. Although there are a few homesteads you can stay at (Bramwell Tourist Park is great), for the most part you’ll need to be self-sufficient. This means carrying spare petrol, as well as cooking fuel, toilet paper and rubbish bags – everything needs to be carried out.
There are great campsites along the way, and plenty of spots to pull over if the sun is setting before you reach your destination. Two of the best are Canal Creek and Captain Billy Landing. Pre book a stay at Punsand Bay, just shy of the tip. You’ll be thankful for the wood-fired pizzas, swimming pool and showers.
Make room for down time at places such as Fruit Bat Falls and Twin
Falls. There are also a few waterholes where you can enjoy a dip, but remember you’re in croc country. Although winter (the dry season) means movement for Cape crocodiles is restricted, it’s best to always keep them top of mind.
Travel during the dry season, from May to October. In summer, it’s wet, roads become impassable and the OTT is off-limits. If you’re itching to get there or are a serious 4WDer, you can travel the track in May, but be mindful that rivers will still be high.
You can tackle Cape York with a camper trailer, but a tent is better. Not only will ditching the trailer mean you can focus more on the 4WDing but a trailer won’t always fit the campsites. The bends in trails and creeks can also be tight, steep and narrow. If you’re on a big camping trip in Queensland or around Australia, you can pay a minimal fee to leave your caravan or camper at a holiday park at the southern edge of the peninsula, or in Cooktown.
Even in winter, you can expect daytime temperatures to sit around 36 degrees, which is why you’ll want to have a tonne of drinking water and take breaks in the shade. Spot fires are also common and they can force you to turn around and find an alternate route. Be sure to listen to other 4WDers and share your knowledge of any dangers.