Gastronomic Exploration

Grilled Meat — A Favorite of Beijingers

CHINA’S capital Beijing is located at the tip of the North China

Plain and is surrounded by mountains to the north, northwest, and west. The Great Wall was built across the mountains north of Beijing to guard against nomadic invasions. Due to challenging conditions pertaining to maintaining fully stocked kitchens and supplies, the herdsmen outside the Great Wall had a very simple way of cooking meat. They cut the meat into large pieces with a hunting knife and marinated them with onions, ginger, and seasoning juice for a period of time, then roasted the meat above the strong and direct heat of lit horse dung until the meat was rave.

When the Manchu people came to dominate the Central Plains in the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), they brought their culinary techniques to the capital Beijing, and since then, grilled meat has become a favorite of Beijingers.

Speaking of grilled meat, locals recommend time-honored restaurants such as “Kaorou Wan” with a history dating back more than 300 years, which was established in Beijing in the 25th year of Emperor Kangxi (1686) in the Qing Dynasty. Another renowned restaurant is known as “Kaorou Ji,” which is located near the Yinding Bridge at Shichahai — a famous scenic area in Xicheng District. They are both good places to taste authentic old Beijing-style grilled meat.

Upon entering the restaurant, diners are engulfed in the sizzling sounds and the steam and aroma of the delicious barbecue, with waiters hurriedly shuttling among the diners at each table. The hustling and bustling atmosphere is what diners seek out and enjoy. Beef is usually served on a bed of onions, while lamb is served on a bed of scallions. The meat is marinated in advance and put on a hot iron plate. When its color changes, it is dipped in cumin and chili. The taste is fresh and juicy, perhaps the most delicious food in the world for those fond of it.

The diners are quite particular about the method of eating the grilled meat. First, certain utensils are needed. The grills currently used are small iron broilers set on a stove. However, the original ones were onemeter-long round iron plate hoops nailed with iron bars which allowed the excess fat of the oily meat to leak through the gaps of the bars. The firewood used is selected from pine twigs, jujube trees, and pear trees, which give off an enticing aroma. The meat is marinated in an aromatic mixture with scallion and seasonings before being barbecued. Then, the marinated meat is placed on a broiler and grilled with long chopsticks. Only after a while, the mouth-watering smell of broiled meat will come out.

Second, there are typically two ways of eating grilled meat, which are literally known as “seated eating” and “standing eating.” Nowadays, when people eat roasted meat, they sit down and savor the delicacy slowly. It is not the eaters but the chefs who roast the meat and serve. But in the past, people liked to enjoy the social experience of the barbecue and participated in the cooking process themselves; therefore, they would stand around the stove, with one leg on the ground and the other bent upon the stool, holding a bowl of liquor in one hand and a pair of long chopsticks in the other, engaged in boisterous conversation and eating. It is also the most popular way of eating grilled meat in old Beijing.

Third, the sesame paste pancake is a perfect match with the grilled meat. The unique aroma of sesame paste goes perfectly with oily barbecued lamb or beef. Baking the pancake relies on the skill of controlling the heat of the cooking fire and time. The best one should be crispy enough that as soon as one touches it, the crust falls off.

A hot iron broiler, a sizzling plate of beef and mutton, several friends gathering around to barbecue while chatting about life bring warmth to the hearts of many Beijingers.