RE­MOV­ING THE ROT

Classics Monthly - - Cooling System -

1 Raise and se­cure the rear of the car on axle stands (a ramp is shown here) and re­move the road wheel. Re­move or pro­tect any trim that could be dam­aged when grind­ing and weld­ing, in­clud­ing arch trims and as shown here, the rear bumper.

2 Use a screw­driver and steel wire brush to in­spect the ex­tent of the rust around the in­ner and outer arches. If you’ve al­ready bought your arch re­pair pan­els, check if the rust ex­tends be­yond them.

3 If the arch is full of filler, try to sand this back with an an­gle grinder to see the ex­tent of what needs re­plac­ing. The arch on this MR2 con­tains filler and brazed re­pairs, which must be cut out.

4 Trial fit the arch re­pair panel and se­cure it with vice grips. Use a per­ma­nent marker pen to draw around the arch re­pair panel. This will act as a guide when re­mov­ing the old me­tal.

5 Use an air saw to care­fully cut a line around the old outer arch. Avoid cut­ting into the in­ner arch and don’t go be­yond the line drawn in the last step.

6 Af­ter cut­ting through the outer arch, it can­not be re­moved un­til the spot welds are ground off it, which at­tach it to the in­ner arch. These can usu­ally be found along the wheel arch lip.

7 Once the spot welds along the lip of the arches have been ground off, the outer arch can be peeled off the in­ner arch. Watch your fingers as the me­tal will be sharp.

8 With the outer arch re­moved and the in­ner arch ex­posed, in­spect the con­di­tion of the in­ner arch. It needs to be rot-free to weld the outer arch re­pair panel to it.

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