Survival guide: T2 What to lookout for when buying a VW ‘Bay Window’ Transporter.
A ‘Bay Window’ VW T2 Transporter makes an ideal choice for anyone looking for a multi-purpose vehicle that can also double up as accommodation for a weekend away.
There are exceptions to every rule and despite not really being into camper vans, the thought of cruising through the South of France in an early ‘70s Dormobile converted Volkswagen Type 2 bus has a weird sort of appeal – and it’s not down to the half a dozen cases of quality red wine clinking merrily away in the accommodation area. The first generation of these extremely versatile vehicles, with their distinctive split windscreens, low powered air-cooled engines and frustrating six-volt electrics are very much a niche market these days and good ones are very expensive too. This makes a later ‘Bay Window’ T2 a far more useful and affordable choice for a classic multi-purpose vehicle that can take you on holiday and as well as coping with that heavyduty visit to the local Ikea outlet.
It’s never been officially confirmed, but popular myth has it that the T2’s design was inspired by Dutch VW importer Ben Pon after he noticed stripped down transporter trucks ferrying parts around VW’s Wolfsburg factory. These basic industrial tugs consisted of a flat carrying deck bolted to a Beetle’s floorpan and gave Pon the idea of replacing the flat load area with a boxy van body.
In reality, it’s perhaps more likely the management at VW had already considered the very same design. Despite the factory being at full stretch producing Beetles, the T2 Transporter went into production and first saw the light of day in November 1949. Early Transporters were pretty basic affairs and power came from a standard 25bhp Beetle flat-flour engine driving the rear wheels through a set of simple hub reduction gears to make the most of the low powered air-cooled power unit.
From the first basic vans, the T2 Transporter was developed to become a vehicle that would be known the world over as a familiar flat-fronted panel van, pick-up, crew bus, ambulance, mobile shop and of course, camper van. Over the years, VW steadily improved the split screen Transporter and eventually replaced it with the slightly larger and heavier second generation T2 in 1968. The revamped T2
had moved away from its Beetle roots and instead of using a separate floorpan/chassis, now featured a strong monocoque bodyshell. This provided more structural rigidity and allowed for much larger windows including a curved front windscreen, the feature that gave the revised bus its modern nickname; the ‘Bay Window’.
By now the air-cooled Beetle engine had been uprated to 1.6-litres and in 1971 twin-port cylinder heads raised the T2’s power output from 47bhp to 50bhp. The crude reduction gearing in the rear hubs was no longer required for the new model and in 1972 the so-called ‘pancake’ engine from the short-lived VW411 saloon was installed. This design was considerably more compact as the cooling fan had been relocated from above the engine to the end of the crankshaft. A facelift in 1972 introduced bigger rear lights, slightly flared arches to accommodate larger rear wheels and tyres and bigger bumpers, with the cab steps now inside the doors. At the rear of the bus the engine cooling vents in the rear quarters were also enlarged to improve the airflow for the larger engines.
A power hike in 1973 boosted the output of the T2’s flat-four to 68 bhp and the Transporter’s top speed was now up to more useful 82 mph. Although the Transporter gained a 70 bhp, 2-litre Porsche-developed engine in 1974 as found in the 914 sports car, by the end of the 1970s the air-cooled engine was starting to show its age when compared to more modern water-cooled designs. Unfortunately, as the swept capacity of VW’s air-cooled flat four increased, the engine’s usual bullet-proof reliability started to flag.
In 1979 the ‘Bay Window’ T2 was replaced by the third generation VW Transporter, known internally as the Type 25. Early examples of the revised model were air-cooled but shortly after launch, a new series of water-cooled engines were available for the Transporter. Although this spelled the end of air cooled VWs assembled in Europe, production of the classic-style air-cooled, rear engine Transporter continued in VW’s South American plants until 2013.
BODY
If possible, try and get any T2 you’re looking at safely raised off the ground on a pair of ramps so the condition of the floorpans and chassis rails can be carefully inspected. The rails give the van its strength and should be free of any serious corrosion, as should all the outriggers. If you come across any patch repairs in these areas, carefully check the standard of the welding along with the strength of any surrounding metal.
Next, inspect the area around
all the jacking points (there are two each side) and while underneath, check out the condition of the rear cargo deck. This is important as if the version you’re looking at is a camper, it may not be possible to check the condition of the upper side of the floor unless the lino or carpet can be lifted up.
Rust can attack the T2’s inner and outer sills and as these panels help make up part of the monocoque’s integral strength, any serious corrosion will result in an MoT failure. Another important item to check carefully for corrosion is the front suspension beam. This is situated almost directly under the cab and the best way to test it is to lightly tap it with the handle of a screwdriver to check for any weak metal.
The front panel around the windscreen can rust badly, especially in the corners and also check the base of the panel behind the bumper. If there’s a spare wheel mounted on the front panel, ask the owner if this can be taken off so you can inspect the paintwork behind it. Front wheel arches on a T2 can rust badly, as can the front steps. Check the bottom of the doors as these rust out at the bottom. On models with a sliding side door, inspect the condition of the panel on both sides and make sure it operates smoothly and sits flush when closed.
Other areas where a T2 will rust badly are around the rear wheel arches and back corners. In the engine bay the battery tray can corrode badly, as can the rear hatch and engine lid. If the model you’re looking at is a camper, carefully check the operation of the elevating roof and if it has a roof rack, try and look at the condition of the van's guttering around and under all of the clamps.
ENGINE/ TRANSMISSION
Overheating is the air-cooled VW’s Achilles' Heel, especially the heavy camper. Part of the engine’s cooling is the lubricating oil and this can drain into the cylinders if the engine’s not been run for a while and produce an alarming puff of smoke on start up. A well-maintained T2 engine should sound relatively quiet and produce that regular VW thrumming noise; any clattering means the valves want adjusting and this could be the sign of a neglected engine.
These are easy engines to work on, although modifying a VW engine to gain more performance usually impacts on something else and can affect how the unit runs. Simple modifications like fitting twin carbs can be done at home, but
anything more complex should be left to an experienced VW specialist.
VW gearboxes are usually as tough as old boots, although the long linkage translates to a long throw on the lever. If the gear lever rattles on the move, replacing the bushes in the shift rod can make a huge difference. Check the condition of the clutch by raising the pedal and noting the biting point. Fitting a new clutch assembly is a relatively easy job, as after removing the rear panel the engine can be rolled out on a trolley jack.
INTERIOR
It’s much easier to inspect the interior on a T2 panel van or a pick-up than the inside of a camper or bus as there is less of it. However, if looking at a camper, beware of home-built interiors, especially DIY mains electric or gas installations. Also check the sink plumbing and fridge unit for leaks, as these will cause the van to rot out from the inside out.
Seats and belt anchorages on all variants should be securely mounted and if aftermarket seats have been fitted, check they can be adjusted smoothly. If the T2 you’re looking at is mechanically sound and is reasonably rust free don’t be put off by a tatty interior. New seat coverings, door cards and headlinings are all available from specialist suppliers. However the interior can be extremely expensive to repair, so check all the cupboards carefully for rot and that all the doorswork.
VERDICT
Spares are plentifully for all ‘Bay Window’ T2 variants and there's an impressive number of specialist parts suppliers and repairers dotted around the country able to work on these vehicles. Prices for a ‘Bay Window’ T2 pick-up start at around £3500 for one with a current MoT and can rise to a jaw dropping £17,500 for a freshly restored imported double cab pickup sporting a smart canvas rear cover.
Decent T2 panel vans can be picked up for anywhere between £3500 and £6500, a lot more for show examples, while a rusty basket case Transporter will cost a brave new owner around a grand. Other than rare specialist coachbuilt oddities, such as Transporter-based fire engines, mini-buses and ambulances, etc., the most expensive post-1968 T2’s are campers. Although professionally restored Condition One ‘Bay Window’ campers are currently changing hands for £15,000 to £20,000, low mileage examples, or ones that have been extensively modified will cost a lot more. At the other end of the scale, a usable T2 ‘mobile tent’ requiring a degree of TLC before it takes off to the seaside can still be picked up for around £8000 to £10,000. On the other hand, bargain basement air-cooled T2 campers in need of a total rebuild start at £2500, a stark contrast to a brand new, rust free but water-cooled Danbury converted T2 Camper, which currently sells for £39,675.