SOUNDPROOFING

1 The inside of the boot is similar to a loudspeaker and the space helps to amplify sound, which in turn creates unwanted noise and vibration that affects the ride quality of the car. Lining the panels inside the boot will help to reduce vibrations. Fitting a thick soundproofing mat over the spare wheel will help to absorb road and exhaust noise.

2 The underside of the boot lid and the bonnet can amplify noise and vibrations, so apply a soundproofing material to absorb this. In the engine bay, this material must be fireproof and have no risk of falling off and becoming tangled with any moving parts on the engine (e.g. the drivebelts). If necessary, secure it with bracing, or fit it underneath any existing material.

3 The panelling inside the engine bay can be lined with a lead sandwich construction of soundproofing material, or something similar. This will help to block some engine noise but again make sure the material is fireproof. If the car has an engine cover, such as on the MGF, soundproofing can be fitted here.

4 For rear engine vehicles, the front compartment can be soundproofed to reduce sounds being amplified and transmitted from it. Road noise is a particular problem, but lining the panels inside the front compartment will help, along with soundproofing the underside of the bonnet (as outlined in step 2).

5 Inside the car, remove the seats and carpets to place soundproofing over the floors, centre tunnel, under the rear seat squab and behind the dashboard. This can all help to reduce rattles and vibrations and in turn improve the ride quality and feel of the car.

6 The insides of the doors are just as good as the boot at amplifying and transmitting road noise and vibrations, so remove the door cards and apply some self-adhesive pieces of soundproofing to remove these unwanted noises. Remember that water runs down the inside of the door panel, so make sure it is clean and dry before sticking anything to it.