OTHER STATIC TESTS
Other checks that can be made on a non- runner include draining the gearbox and the diff oil and checking it for traces of metal swarf. This is not an exact science, but if you can see an appreciable glimmer of metal in the drained oil, then it does at least warn you that something has worn quite badly on the inside. Any actual lumps of metal are even worse, and mean the item will need either reconditioning or replacing.
Elsewhere, there are some things that will almost always need replacing on a project that has been standing for a while – tyres, exhaust, battery and radiator. They will generally add up to at least £750, sometimes considerably more, and there is rarely a cheap way around it, so that is worth bearing in mind if you are trying to work to a very tight budget.
Elsewhere, the condition of the wiring loom can act as a good barometer to how well the car has been maintained in general. Crimped terminals here and there are not a disaster, but if you have random wires running around the engine bay or if the wiring hanging down from under the dash looks like a bird's nest, then the chances are that Billy Bodger has been there before you and setting aside maybe £350-£400 for a new loom will probably save you hours of frustration further down the line.
The other major area for assessment is the bodywork. As we mentioned in part one, any rust you can see will invariably be only a fraction of the true extent of corrosion. It is also true that some repairs which may look simple on the surface are in fact quite demanding and involved, while a few (and really not that many!) will be the reverse. In a general introduction feature such as this we cannot hope to make you a skilled assessor of body rust, nor to cover all the typical rust spots of various potential projects. Perhaps the best we can do is refer you to the many project cars we have been featuring in recent months. These invariably require body repairs, and comparing what we could see on the surface initially with what we found once we'd started cutting away the rot will start to give you a feel for what to expect.
If this sounds like a cop out, then I apologise because that is certainly not the intention. Essentially though, you will need to poke around any part of the car where something important attaches, and any rust, crude repair patches, fibreglass or filler you find will be bad news. And there are a lot of places to check, including attachment points for suspension and steering components, engine/gearbox mounts, seats, seat belts, battery, fuel tank and more. On the bright side, I wouldn't worry too much about the braking system, as you will be replacing all the hydraulic side of that!