BITS AND BOBS ON THE ROVER P4

I am thoroughly enjoying the May issue, and inevitably started with the second instalment of the P4 project. Thank you for including my contributions.

For interest, I attach a photo of the (correct) column mounted indicator and headlamp switches on our 95, Salome. As you can see, the only difference is the shape of the knobs on the ends. I was interested to see the photo of one of the doorsteps on your car, which I see has been recovered in standard ribbed rubber matting. I attach a photo of one of the steps on our car, still with the original factory matting, although accurate reproductions have recently become available from the Guild and parts specialists. I also attach a sequence of photos showing the interior of our boot, the offside section with the side ‘curtain’ raised showing the tools in position and the box over the petrol pump, and the double ended petrol pump itself, which is the original type, unlike yours.

It seems strange that a previous owner, having apparently installed a 110 wiper switch which incorporates the switch for an electric screen wash, ended up fitting a separate non-standard switch for the screen wash, losing the advantage of wipe and wash having the same control. Our car’s original owner, ‘Aunt’ Helen (actually my grandmother’s cousin) was quite short and increasingly afflicted with arthritis. To make life easier for her, I fitted two accessories to the 95 in about 1972 (50 years ago!) comprising a Smiths Rear Screen Heater and an electric screen wash, using a Trico kit which provided the wiring and pump, but not using the Trico universal switch and instead buying and fitting the correct 110 switch from the original supplying Rover dealers, Trumans of Nottingham. Both things still work as intended.

Incidentally, in my pictures you will see a rolled up strap in each back corner of the boot. These are the luggage straps supplied by Rover for use if you have to carry a large load with the boot partly open, the straps going between the hoops on the underside of the boot lid and the slots in the raised lip at the rear of the boot floor. Ours have never been used, and I found them in Aunt Helen’s kitchen after her death.

Another random thought arises from reading part two of the project saga, where Steve Hall has advised you to change the plugs etc. Do be aware that it is essential to use Champion N5 or equivalent (eg NGK B6ES) plugs. Unlike, for example, BMC A and B-series engines which benefit from a change to the longer reach N9Y plugs, on the Rover overhead inlet/side exhaust valve engines, the pistons are likely to hit the longer reach plugs.

On a completely different subject, congratulations on completing the Fiat Panda project, restoring and preserving this now rare car after it had received the attentions of bodgers. Your tale of sorting out bad earths in the May issue reminded me of a Rover 827Si which we bought at about a year old and 9000 miles in 1990. This proved to be an excellent car, with one single exception. On the evening of the first day of ownership, we attended a meeting in a nearby village. It was dark when we came out, and I drove down to a junction with the main road, waited until the road was clear, pulled out and, finding the road ahead clear, went for main beam headlights. What hitting the dip switch actually did was to turn the lights and the engine off and lower the driver’s window! The car coasted to a halt on the verge, I flipped the dip switch again and found I could restart the engine and turn the lights back on. I drove home on dipped beam and, on turning into the drive at home, pulled the dip switch with the same result of no lights, no engine and a dropped window.

I put the car away and went indoors to study the wiring diagram in the workshop manual. The next morning I rang the Rover dealer who had sold me the car and asked them to collect it and clean the earth behind the offside headlight, which was common to the three things which misbehaved. They did this, and the car never gave any more trouble. When we part exchanged it for a later model, the dealer sold it to a local doctor who kept it for many more years.

Many thanks for that extra information Richard, and for the photos which will be very useful for comparing what I have with what should be there. I have no illusions that I will create a car in the same superb condition as yours, but it is nice to have something to aim for!

I would also like to thank another long-term correspondent, Simon Piant, for writing in with advice on lubricating the Rover's steering mechanism. Simon wrote: 'SAE 140 is much better than EP90 oil for the P4 steering box and kingpins. I know I'm being a clever sod, but that is one important thing I've learnt. It's called Worm Steering Box oil. There is a steering box and an idler too, the latter often neglected.'

I really do appreciate all the advice, help and general support! – Ed