Emerald Isle: discover Ireland’s wild west coast

TRAVEL AND FOOD PHOTOGRAPHER KATIE QUINN DAVIES TAKES US ON A ROAD TRIP AROUND HER HOMELAND OF IRELAND.

AFTER LIVING IN AUSTRALIA for more than a decade, in June last year I decided to return to Ireland and see how I felt about living ‘back home’. I packed up my belongings — furniture, camera gear, two cats and all — and shipped it back to Dublin. It was glorious getting back to my home city after 12 years away. The Irish summer was splendid (yes, I did just write that) and I spent a lot of time horseriding in beautiful Phoenix Park. At more that 700 hectares, it’s the largest enclosed public park in a European capital and is home to hundreds of deer (meaning there’s plenty of Instagram fodder). But as much as I love Dublin for its genuine craic (good times), one of my favourite things to do in Ireland is to jump in the car and take a road trip around the countryside. In October, I decided to do just that, focusing on the west coast of the country and driving the Wild Atlantic Way. When you visit this part of the world, you know you’re going see jaw-dropping scenery, hear great Irish music, eat amazing seafood and escape the madness of the real world for a few days. Spanning nine counties, the Wild Atlantic Way is a 2500-kilometre route along Ireland’s west coast that runs from Kinsale in the south all the way up to the Inishowen Peninsula in County Donegal. A massive tourist drawcard, it lives up to its reputation of being one of the most beautiful coastal drives in the world. Before heading west, I kicked off my road trip with a night in County Wicklow on the east coast. Known as the Garden of Ireland, County Wicklow is an area I love and my sister lives there, so I thought I’d take the opportunity to say hello. About an hour’s drive south of Dublin, once you reach Kilmacanogue and see the Great Sugar Loaf Mountains, you know you have left city life behind.

COUNTY WICKLOW On the way to Wicklow, stop at Avoca Handweavers in Kilmacanogue. This is one of the largest of a chain of Irish craft and homewares stores, jam-packed with incredible ceramics, clothes and foodie delights. They have a wonderful verandah restaurant and café, too. A further 15 minutes’ drive south is the town of Rathnew, where I stayed the night at Hunter’s Hotel. Ireland’s oldest coaching inn, Hunter’s is known for its beautiful gardens. It’s also just a 5-minute drive from Mount Usher Gardens, one of the country’s most famous gardens. The hotel has been operated by the Hunter/gelletlie family since 1825 and is a wonderful place to stop, even if it’s just for afternoon tea. It’s a delight to stay here — there’s an abundance of old-world charm and the cosy bar is a great place for a drink before you settle in at the dining room to enjoy a leisurely meal made from the best locally sourced produce. Early the next morning, with a hot Irish breakfast in my belly, I head south-west towards Dingle. It’s a fairly decent drive by Irish standards — four-and-a-half hours — but you can break it up with lunch in Kilkenny. You could also drive to the quaint town of Kinsale in west Cork, which has been designated the starting point of the Wild Atlantic Way.

COUNTY KERRY Dingle is one of my all-time favourite towns in Ireland and it’s well worth the drive. Situated at the end of the Dingle Peninsula in County Kerry, if you come from west Cork you’ll notice a change in the scenery, as it becomes much more rugged and the coastline is dotted with sandy beaches. The town is full of wonderful old pubs including Dick Mack’s, which dates back to 1899 and is full of character. It’s the place to go for >

live Irish music and the Guinness flows on tap. All the pubs, bars and restaurants here serve amazing fresh seafood. A big pot of mussels with Irish brown bread and a pint of the black stuff is essential, and best enjoyed in front of a roaring fire. A trip around the Slea Head Drive is a must when you’re in Dingle. The circular route forms part of the Wild Atlantic Way and you should set aside about four hours to do it properly. Beginning and ending in Dingle, it encompasses many of the area’s attractions, including the Famine Cottages. Visiting these old stone cottages is a moving experience and offers a real sense of what it would have been like to live in poverty during the Great Irish Famine of the 1840s. Every traveller to Ireland should visit the houses to better understand the Irish and their history. There’s a fantastic view from the cottages and, on a clear day, you can see the ancient Dúnbeg Fort, Dingle Bay, South Kerry and the Skellig Islands (where scenes from Star Wars: The Last Jedi were filmed).

COUNTY CLARE On leaving Dingle, head north towards County Clare, stopping off — as is mandatory — to have a look at the stunning Cliffs of Moher in Lislorkan. These cliffs are one of Ireland’s most visited natural attractions. A little inland from the cliffs, it’s fun to call in at Glanquin Farmhouse, or Father Ted’s House, as it’s better known. The property was used in the hugely popular comedy series Father Ted, and is actually a family-owned organic farm. Only the exterior was used in the television show, but you can have afternoon tea inside the house and join a guided walk of the surrounding Burren region, where they take you to locations featured in the show, as well as significant archaeological sites. My accommodation for the night, Mount Vernon guesthouse, is located in the heart of the Burren region, an area of important natural and cultural heritage, where you’ll find UNESCO World Heritage-listed limestone landscapes, caves and cliffs. Mount Vernon is a gem of a place run by Mark Helmore, a truly splendid chap who’s extremely knowledgable. Built in 1788, the Georgian villa offers fine views over Galway Bay and, although it feels secluded, it’s only a 20-minute walk to a good pub — Linnane’s Lobster Bar, which serves the best crab claws I’ve ever tasted. Mount Vernon has five guest bedrooms and Mark cooks a delicious breakfast, which includes his homemade jams. Dinner is available on request. After leaving Mount Vernon, I made my way past Galway city and into County Galway’s Connemara area — a place you should definitely add to your bucket list. It’s like nowhere else on the planet; the scenery is jaw-dropping. I took the especially scenic coastal route from Screebe to Cashel House Hotel and arrived as the light was fading.

COUNTY GALWAY Overlooking beautiful Cashel Bay, Cashel House Hotel is a 19th-century country home nestled in 20 hectares of gardens. It’s a good base for exploring Kylemore Abbey and the Victorian Walled Garden, about 30 minutes’ drive away. The bedrooms at Cashel House are individually decorated in a charming chintzy style. Following a wonderful meal of local produce and Connemara lamb in the elegant glass conservatory, I enjoyed a drink by the fire in their super cosy sitting room. The next morning I took a stroll through the property’s enchanting flower and herb gardens, >

with their hidden pathways, nooks and crannies. This extremely peaceful experience was a highlight of my stay. After a leisurely drive along the coast to take in more visual delights, I stopped in the vibrant town of Clifden for lunch, then travelled north for an hour to my next hotel stop — Delphi Lodge. The drive there from Maam Cross, via the town of Leenaun, is incredibly beautiful and serene. Dating back to the 1830s, Delphi Lodge is a 13-bedroom hotel and fishing lodge built in, quite possibly, the most spectacular spot in Connemara. Surrounded by mountains, it overlooks the lakes and rivers of the Delphi Valley, which is famous for salmon and sea trout fishing. Delphi Lodge is run like a home, not a hotel, and dinners are enjoyed around a large communal table lit with candles. You dine with fellow guests and there is a wonderful sense that you are at a house party.

COUNTY MAYO After two days at the lodge, I packed up and made my way to a place I’d wanted to visit for years: Achill Island, which is 90 minutes’ drive away. Achill Island feels really remote; it’s 87 per cent peat bog so the landscape is a little moon-like and there’s striking scenery at the expansive Keem Beach, which reminds me of parts of New Zealand. Outdoorsy types will find plenty to do on the island, including horseriding, fishing and hiking. More fresh seafood consumed and another pint in, and it was onto my final stop of this journey. From Achill it is just over an hour’s drive to Enniscoe House, which sits on the edge of Lough Conn lake in County Mayo. The house dates from the 1790s and is located on a family estate, where owner Susan Kellett is the host. From the moment you walk through the impressive oversized front door into the grand hallway, you’re surrounded by history. The main house has six bedrooms. The one I stayed in — complete with a canopy bed and view of the lake — made me feel like I’d been transported back in time. In the evening, drinks are served in the drawing room, where you can chat to the other guests before entering the intimate dining room for a feast prepared by Susan herself. This was perhaps the most memorable stay on my journey and a fitting place to wind up a week on the road. ADDRESS BOOK • Avoca Handweavers in Kilmacanoge is an emporium of Irish homewares and crafts — there’s also a bustling food market, café and restaurant. avoca.com • Cashel House Hotel is a 19th-century converted country home. cashelhouse.ie • Delphi Lodge is set on a 400-hectare estate with spectacular surroundings. The hotel itself is a delightful 1830s country house. delphilodge.ie • Dick Mack’s This wonderful old pub in Dingle has barely changed since it opened in 1899. dickmackspub.com • Enniscoe House Dating back to 1790, this classical Georgian home has beautiful grounds. enniscoe.com • Famine Cottages Built in the 1840s by the Earl of Cork, these cottages give you a glimpse of life during the Great Irish Famine. famine-cottage.com • Glanquin Farmhouse, well known for its role in the TV series Father Ted, is part of an organic farm. fathertedshouse.com • Hunter’s Hotel Ireland’s oldest coaching inn opened in 1825. hunters.ie • Mount Vernon This gorgeous Georgian guesthouse has a library and walled rose garden. mountvernon.ie • Linnane’s Lobster Bar is a short walk from Mount Vernon guesthouse. linnanesbar.com