BE­SPOKE BEAUTY

JULI­ETTE WIN­TER EX­PLORES THE BRAVE NEW WORLD OF PER­SON­ALISED BEAUTY PROD­UCTS.

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Juli­ette Win­ter on how the trend for per­son­al­i­sa­tion has taken the beauty world by storm.

MASS-PRO­DUCED SKIN­CARE is on its way out as more and more con­sumers are be­gin­ning to take their beauty prod­ucts per­son­ally. Long gone are the one-cream-fits-all days — skin­care can now be made to or­der, to match your skin con­cerns and per­sonal for­mula de­sires, from scent to tex­ture. “My skin just couldn’t agree with any­thing off-the-shelf, so get­ting into for­mu­la­tion was my last re­sort,” says cos­metic chemist Ee Ting, founder of cus­tom skin­care brand, Hop and Cot­ton. “De­spite hav­ing so many op­tions now, find­ing prod­ucts that ac­tu­ally work for you can be quite daunt­ing and frus­trat­ing, es­pe­cially if your skin is not quite typ­i­cal.” Ee says that, al­though ev­ery­one’s skin type does fall some­where on the tra­di­tional oily-to-dry spec­trum, this isn’t pre­cise enough be­cause it doesn’t take into ac­count your skin’s pre­dis­po­si­tions. “This in­cludes sen­si­tiv­ity, blem­ish-prone or eczema-prone, and age­ing, each of which has vary­ing ex­tents of sever­ity,” says Ee, who adds that a weak­ened skin bar­rier (the outer­most layer of your skin’s sur­face that acts as a shield from the en­vi­ron­ment), con­ges­tion and ir­ri­ta­tion are the end re­sult of not ac­com­mo­dat­ing all th­ese vari­ables. The cus­tomi­sa­tion process is rel­a­tively sim­ple: you fill out a ques­tion­naire on­line, then Hop and Cot­ton sug­gest a spe­cific reg­i­men com­pris­ing three steps: cleans­ing, ex­fo­li­at­ing and mois­tur­is­ing. All are sul­phate-, paraben- and fra­grance-free and they tai­lor the amount and con­cen­tra­tion of each in­gre­di­ent to your in­di­vid­ual skin con­cerns. More tra­di­tional depart­ment store brands are jump­ing on the ‘make it mine’ band­wagon. Kiehl’s of­fers Apothe­cary Prepa­ra­tions in-store — two com­plexes of your choice (ei­ther tar­get­ing wrin­kles, tex­ture, clar­ity, pores or red­ness) are added to a pre-pre­pared base serum while you wait. Sa­lon brands like Der­mavid­u­als and Sothys also of­fer the op­tion of adding ac­tive boost­ers to amp up your ev­ery­day mois­turiser, while Der­ma­log­ica now do 30- or 60-minute Proskin treat­ments tai­lored to suit your lifestyle, skin con­cerns and even stress lev­els. “Proskin treat­ments are de­signed on-the-spot after a thor­ough skin anal­y­sis and dis­cus­sion with the client,” says Emma Hob­son, ed­u­ca­tion man­ager for The In­ter­na­tional Der­mal In­sti­tute. “After all, the skin is never the same at any given time, so every visit for a skin treat­ment must mir­ror the changes the skin is ex­pe­ri­enc­ing.” Be­spoke beauty is sweep­ing through the makeup world, too. Bobbi Brown and MAC al­low you to pick and mix from ex­ist­ing shades to cre­ate your pre­ferred colour pal­ette, and cus­tomi­sa­tion is taken to the next level at The Lip Lab where they will make your de­sired lip­stick hue, right in front of you. “A lot of con­sumers strug­gle to find their per­fect shade, or are bored with look­ing for hours on end in stores for what they want,” says Court­ney Treacy, who co-founded The Lip Lab in 2015 with her sis­ter, Kim­ber­ley. As well as the thrill of watch­ing the pig­ment-blend­ing process (A little more pink? A touch more brown?), you can also choose your pre­ferred base (matte, crème, ve­gan, liq­uid matte or lip­gloss), scent (ev­ery­thing from car­rot cake to mint and cin­na­mon) and even the pack­ag­ing, be­fore the mix­ture is spun in a cen­trifuge and moulded into its tubu­lar shape. Foun­da­tion and con­cealer are also on the menu, while pressed pow­der, high­lighters and a per­fume are in the works. In the mean­time, fra­grance com­bin­ing is al­ready on of­fer at Jo Malone London, whose ex­ist­ing range of per­fumes can be com­bined in more than 400 ways to cre­ate your own scent. It is the unique­ness, the prom­ise of find­ing some­thing that per­fectly suits you, that is driv­ing the tai­lor-made trend. “Own­ing some­thing made just for us makes us feel spe­cial,” says Ee. “The be­spoke beauty trend cel­e­brates in­di­vid­u­al­ism.”

PER­FECT MATCH

Per­son­alise your beauty rou­tine with th­ese prod­ucts. • No one ever uses every colour in a make-up pal­ette so it makes sense to cre­ate your own. Known for their beau­ti­ful range of com­pli­men­tary colours, Bobbi Brown lets you pick a pal­ette size to fill with your favourite cheek and eye shades. Shown op­po­site is the Bobbi Brown 4-Pan Pal­ette ($18), con­tain­ing a blush in Slopes ($47), and three eye shad­ows in Taupe, Ma­hogany and Bone ($42 each). • To cel­e­brate its 165th birth­day, Kiehl’s in­tro­duced Apothe­cary Prepa­ra­tions ($140 in­cludes the 30ml Skin Strength­en­ing Con­cen­trate, plus two 5ml Tar­geted Com­plexes) into their bou­tiques to give cus­tomers con­trol over what ac­tives they would like in their skin­care. • Find­ing the per­fect lip­stick can be a lifelong quest, so why not cre­ate your own? The Lip Lab’s team of be­spoke blenders will guide you through the process, tweak­ing the colour un­til you’re sure it’s a per­fect match. Try The Lip Lab Cus­tom Blended Lip­stick (from $65) or The Lip Lab Lip­gloss (from $30). • A serum, mois­turiser and eye cream in one, The Bril­liant face mois­turiser from Hop and Cot­ton (40ml, $168) is cre­ated to meet your ex­act skin needs. • Find­ing your sig­na­ture scent is what lux­ury fra­grance house Jo Malone London does best. Their Fra­grance Com­bin­ing al­lows you to layer any num­ber of colognes to cre­ate a unique scent that can be as flo­ral, spicy, woody or fruity as your nose de­sires. We adore their top-selling com­bi­na­tion of Jo Malone London Peony and Blush Suede Cologne (30ml, $98) with notes of red ap­ple, rose and a hint of jas­mine, lay­ered with the fresh Jo Malone London Wood Sage and Sea Salt Cologne (30ml, $98).

Get your beauty bag ready for take-off with travel tips and carry-on es­sen­tials from th­ese beauty ex­perts.

TRAVEL SCENTS

Fiona Pereira, Jo Malone London 1. Noth­ing soothes weary mus­cles after a long-haul flight like a good soak in the bath or a hot shower. It lays the foun­da­tion for a dy­namic day ahead or an ex­trav­a­gant party, and is the per­fect op­por­tu­nity for a mo­ment of ‘me time’. 2. Cre­ate a scent sou­venir. Our sense of smell is closely linked with mem­ory, so a par­tic­u­lar fra­grance worn on hol­i­day can make for a won­der­ful sou­venir of a happy time away from home. Jo Malone London French Lime Blos­som Cologne (30ml, $98), for ex­am­ple, evokes early sum­mer in Paris. 3. Stay­ing in a strange en­vi­ron­ment can some­times dis­turb our sleep­ing pat­terns. To give your­self the best chance of a good night’s rest, a spritz of laven­der-in­fused linen spray on your sheets or pil­low­case can help set­tle your mind and body and pre­pare you for a deeper sleep. Try the Jo Malone London Lino Nel Vento Scent Sur­round Linen Spray (175ml, $85).

SKIN ES­SEN­TIALS

Emma Hob­son, The In­ter­na­tional Der­mal In­sti­tute 1. Take a travel-sized spritz toner on flights. This is fan­tas­tic to freshen and hy­drate the skin and can be spritzed eas­ily over make-up. Try Der­ma­log­ica Multi-ac­tive Toner (50ml, $17.50). 2. SPF, a large brimmed hat and sun­glasses are a must if you’re trav­el­ling some­where hot — you don’t want to come back with wrin­kles! Try Der­ma­log­ica Pure Light SPF50 (50ml, $97) and Der­ma­log­ica Total Eye Care with SPF15 (15ml, $77). 3. Be­fore you travel, check out the pol­lu­tion in­dex of your lo­ca­tion via skin­pol­lu­tion.com and prep your skin as well as your travel beauty kit to shield against as­sault.

PRETTY LITTLE THINGS

Ee Ting, Hop and Cot­ton 1. My travel es­sen­tials ex­tend to noise-can­celling head­phones for catch­ing some beauty sleep on the plane. 2. Sooth­ing ther­mal spring wa­ter spray to hy­drate on the go. 3. Byredo Blanche eau de par­fum (110ml, $245) to put me in ‘comfy mode’, es­pe­cially on long flights.

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