JULIETTE WINTER EXPLORES THE BRAVE NEW WORLD OF PERSONALISED BEAUTY PRODUCTS.
Juliette Winter on how the trend for personalisation has taken the beauty world by storm.
MASS-PRODUCED SKINCARE is on its way out as more and more consumers are beginning to take their beauty products personally. Long gone are the one-cream-fits-all days — skincare can now be made to order, to match your skin concerns and personal formula desires, from scent to texture. “My skin just couldn’t agree with anything off-the-shelf, so getting into formulation was my last resort,” says cosmetic chemist Ee Ting, founder of custom skincare brand, Hop and Cotton. “Despite having so many options now, finding products that actually work for you can be quite daunting and frustrating, especially if your skin is not quite typical.” Ee says that, although everyone’s skin type does fall somewhere on the traditional oily-to-dry spectrum, this isn’t precise enough because it doesn’t take into account your skin’s predispositions. “This includes sensitivity, blemish-prone or eczema-prone, and ageing, each of which has varying extents of severity,” says Ee, who adds that a weakened skin barrier (the outermost layer of your skin’s surface that acts as a shield from the environment), congestion and irritation are the end result of not accommodating all these variables. The customisation process is relatively simple: you fill out a questionnaire online, then Hop and Cotton suggest a specific regimen comprising three steps: cleansing, exfoliating and moisturising. All are sulphate-, paraben- and fragrance-free and they tailor the amount and concentration of each ingredient to your individual skin concerns. More traditional department store brands are jumping on the ‘make it mine’ bandwagon. Kiehl’s offers Apothecary Preparations in-store — two complexes of your choice (either targeting wrinkles, texture, clarity, pores or redness) are added to a pre-prepared base serum while you wait. Salon brands like Dermaviduals and Sothys also offer the option of adding active boosters to amp up your everyday moisturiser, while Dermalogica now do 30- or 60-minute Proskin treatments tailored to suit your lifestyle, skin concerns and even stress levels. “Proskin treatments are designed on-the-spot after a thorough skin analysis and discussion with the client,” says Emma Hobson, education manager for The International Dermal Institute. “After all, the skin is never the same at any given time, so every visit for a skin treatment must mirror the changes the skin is experiencing.” Bespoke beauty is sweeping through the makeup world, too. Bobbi Brown and MAC allow you to pick and mix from existing shades to create your preferred colour palette, and customisation is taken to the next level at The Lip Lab where they will make your desired lipstick hue, right in front of you. “A lot of consumers struggle to find their perfect shade, or are bored with looking for hours on end in stores for what they want,” says Courtney Treacy, who co-founded The Lip Lab in 2015 with her sister, Kimberley. As well as the thrill of watching the pigment-blending process (A little more pink? A touch more brown?), you can also choose your preferred base (matte, crème, vegan, liquid matte or lipgloss), scent (everything from carrot cake to mint and cinnamon) and even the packaging, before the mixture is spun in a centrifuge and moulded into its tubular shape. Foundation and concealer are also on the menu, while pressed powder, highlighters and a perfume are in the works. In the meantime, fragrance combining is already on offer at Jo Malone London, whose existing range of perfumes can be combined in more than 400 ways to create your own scent. It is the uniqueness, the promise of finding something that perfectly suits you, that is driving the tailor-made trend. “Owning something made just for us makes us feel special,” says Ee. “The bespoke beauty trend celebrates individualism.”
Personalise your beauty routine with these products. • No one ever uses every colour in a make-up palette so it makes sense to create your own. Known for their beautiful range of complimentary colours, Bobbi Brown lets you pick a palette size to fill with your favourite cheek and eye shades. Shown opposite is the Bobbi Brown 4-Pan Palette ($18), containing a blush in Slopes ($47), and three eye shadows in Taupe, Mahogany and Bone ($42 each). • To celebrate its 165th birthday, Kiehl’s introduced Apothecary Preparations ($140 includes the 30ml Skin Strengthening Concentrate, plus two 5ml Targeted Complexes) into their boutiques to give customers control over what actives they would like in their skincare. • Finding the perfect lipstick can be a lifelong quest, so why not create your own? The Lip Lab’s team of bespoke blenders will guide you through the process, tweaking the colour until you’re sure it’s a perfect match. Try The Lip Lab Custom Blended Lipstick (from $65) or The Lip Lab Lipgloss (from $30). • A serum, moisturiser and eye cream in one, The Brilliant face moisturiser from Hop and Cotton (40ml, $168) is created to meet your exact skin needs. • Finding your signature scent is what luxury fragrance house Jo Malone London does best. Their Fragrance Combining allows you to layer any number of colognes to create a unique scent that can be as floral, spicy, woody or fruity as your nose desires. We adore their top-selling combination of Jo Malone London Peony and Blush Suede Cologne (30ml, $98) with notes of red apple, rose and a hint of jasmine, layered with the fresh Jo Malone London Wood Sage and Sea Salt Cologne (30ml, $98).
Get your beauty bag ready for take-off with travel tips and carry-on essentials from these beauty experts.
Fiona Pereira, Jo Malone London 1. Nothing soothes weary muscles after a long-haul flight like a good soak in the bath or a hot shower. It lays the foundation for a dynamic day ahead or an extravagant party, and is the perfect opportunity for a moment of ‘me time’. 2. Create a scent souvenir. Our sense of smell is closely linked with memory, so a particular fragrance worn on holiday can make for a wonderful souvenir of a happy time away from home. Jo Malone London French Lime Blossom Cologne (30ml, $98), for example, evokes early summer in Paris. 3. Staying in a strange environment can sometimes disturb our sleeping patterns. To give yourself the best chance of a good night’s rest, a spritz of lavender-infused linen spray on your sheets or pillowcase can help settle your mind and body and prepare you for a deeper sleep. Try the Jo Malone London Lino Nel Vento Scent Surround Linen Spray (175ml, $85).
Emma Hobson, The International Dermal Institute 1. Take a travel-sized spritz toner on flights. This is fantastic to freshen and hydrate the skin and can be spritzed easily over make-up. Try Dermalogica Multi-active Toner (50ml, $17.50). 2. SPF, a large brimmed hat and sunglasses are a must if you’re travelling somewhere hot — you don’t want to come back with wrinkles! Try Dermalogica Pure Light SPF50 (50ml, $97) and Dermalogica Total Eye Care with SPF15 (15ml, $77). 3. Before you travel, check out the pollution index of your location via skinpollution.com and prep your skin as well as your travel beauty kit to shield against assault.
PRETTY LITTLE THINGS
Ee Ting, Hop and Cotton 1. My travel essentials extend to noise-cancelling headphones for catching some beauty sleep on the plane. 2. Soothing thermal spring water spray to hydrate on the go. 3. Byredo Blanche eau de parfum (110ml, $245) to put me in ‘comfy mode’, especially on long flights.