THE ANTI-AGEING EFFECT

IS VITAMIN A THE ANSWER TO YOUTHFUL SKIN? JULIETTE WINTER SPEAKS TO THE EXPERTS ABOUT THE MANY BENEFITS OF RETINOIDS.

The side effects of vitamin A have led to a myriad of products promising younger, healthier skin.

SCIENCE, BY ITS EXPERIMENTAL nature, constantly yields surprises in the skincare lab. When researchers began testing retinoic acid as an acne treatment almost 50 years ago, it revealed an exciting side effect — this potent form of vitamin A not only helped cure pesky pimples, but also improved signs of sun damage and smoothed fine lines. “Retinoids have benefits for more than 125 different skin issues, from acne to psoriasis to wrinkles and other signs of sun damage,” says Paula Begoun of Paula’s Choice Skincare. “Retinoids are often hailed as the gold standard in anti-ageing skincare,” adds Daniel Isaacs, director of research at Medik8. “Retinol is one of the most clinically proven ingredients, with a wealth of respected journals and dermatologists praising its exceptional benefits.” Without getting too technical, there are a few things you should know about retinoids — the catch-all term for vitamin A and its 2500 chemical derivatives. The two terms you really need to know are retinol (pure vitamin A used in over-the-counter creams) and retinoic acid (the more potent prescription-only active ingredient). Both can produce the same brightening results, but retinol takes longer as it has to be broken down to retinoic acid in the skin first. “Retinoic acid has cell-communicating properties, meaning it can literally tell a cell to behave like a younger, healthier cell,” says Paula. Telling cells to turn over faster is how retinoids successfully fade dark spots and freckles, and prevent pores from clogging. However, retinoic acid’s ability to affect the actual structure of the skin is what really rocketed retinoids to superstar status. Daniel says it enhances the synthesis of collagen and stops it from being broken down, which leads to firmer skin and fewer fine lines. Yet the road to retaining youthful skin isn’t all rosy — some people experience redness and flaking from using vitamin A. “A small minority of people can’t tolerate retinol,” says Paula. “Using a lower concentration or alternating application can make all the difference in terms of your own personal tolerance.” If your skin refuses to tolerate pure retinol, there are now synthetic alternatives. Daniel recommends using “retinyl retinoate, a combination of retinol and retinoic acid, which is proven to be an extremely low irritation form of vitamin A”. As with any anti-ageing routine, you’ll need to be vigilant with sunscreen because UV is a major cause of the problem you’re trying to treat. “It’s fine to use a retinol product during the day if you’re also protecting your skin with sunscreen,” Paula says. “Vitamin A, C and E, even in combination, remain stable and effective under an Spf-rated product.” Whatever retinoid form or potency you decide to use, it will take months to really see results. Once they kick in though you’ll understand what all the fuss is about. However, be aware there are still limits to the results you can achieve — even retinoids can’t work miracles. “Skin is a large, complex organ and has very complex needs,” says Paula. “One ingredient, even a great ingredient, can’t do it all — any more than one food can be enough to take care of your body.”