PLACES TO STAY
• Masseria Moroseta, Ostuni
A big white stone farmhouse surrounded by gardens, a large swimming pool, and five hectares of olive groves. With only six rooms, Masseria Moroseta has an intimate atmosphere and there are various nooks and cosy spots for you to enjoy the peace and quiet on the property. Only a short drive from the rugged coastline and historic towns and villages, it makes a great base for exploring the area. Contrada Lamacavallo, s/n, 72017 Ostuni BR; masseriamoroseta.it
• Masseria Uccio, Tricase
A charming little country house located in the hills of Tricase and surrounded by stunning green fields, farm land and other nearby masserias. Run by Francesco and his lovely wife, this B&B makes you feel right at home. Uccio is a great base for exploring both the east and west coast of Puglia and the breakfast here is not to be missed! Via Madonna di Fatima, snc 73039 Tricase LE; masseriauccio.com
• Masseria Cimino, Fasano Our one-night splurge! Located near the town of Fasano, this is a beautiful 18th-century masseria that operates as an upmarket hotel. The rooms are breathtakingly romantic and the interiors are artfully decorated. Breakfast and dinner are included and take place in the stunning dining room where masses of dried tomatoes hang from the ceiling. Enjoy a pre-dinner cocktail in the white-washed lobby before sitting down to eat. Contrada Masciola, 72010 Savelletri di Fasano BR; masseriacimino.com >
• Casa di Mario, Monopoli This gorgeous multi-level apartment was such a great find! Located in the old town, it is only two minutes from the ocean. If you don’t feel like leaving, take in the views from the rooftop terrace with a glass of red and a cheese board paired with produce bought from the local market. The apartment has been carefully curated with stylish pieces the owner has collected from his travels. airbnb.com.au/rooms/17115546
• La Signura Bio Suites, Lecce
A bright and airy B&B located right in the middle of town and a stroll away from amazing bars, restaurants and historic sites. Adjoining our room was our own private terrace; we would keep the wooden doors open and let the fresh air flow in while we took an afternoon nap. Delectable pasticciotto, croissants and organic fruit are left on the table for you every morning. Corte A Miali Angelo, 4, 73100 Lecce LE; lasignura.com
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK
• Alba Chiara and Il Principe del Mare Ristoro, Savelletri Both these low-key restaurants are located at the ocean’s edge and I couldn’t tell you which one was better. Sip rosé and nibble on fresh bread with balsamic and olive oil as you wait for your meal to arrive. Sea urchin is a local specialty, or you can’t go wrong with the spaghetti alle vongole, mussels, and a variety of freshly grilled octopus and prawns. Alba Chiara, Strada Provinciale Torrecanne, Savelletri BR. Il Principe del Mare Ristoro, SP90, 25, 72015 Savelletri BR.
• Osteria Del Tempo Perso, Ostuni
A lovely laidback restaurant offering traditional Apulian dishes. It is located in a cave (request an inside table when you book) and local ceramics are everywhere you look. Be sure to order the orecchiette and, if you’re a cheese lover, try the burrata. Via Gaetano Tanzarella Vitale, 47, 72017 Ostuni BR.
• Caffe l’incontro, Lecce An old-school, no-frills bakery located on the outskirts of Lecce. Go here first thing in the morning for fresh pasticciotto. You will not regret it! Viale della libertà, 51, 73100 Lecce LE.
• Farmacia Balboa, Tricase One of my favourites! Located on the piazza in Tricase, this stylish cocktail bar is the perfect spot for an aperitivo and to watch the world go by. If you get peckish, head next door for a simple yet authentic Italian pizza. Piazza Giuseppe Pisanelli, 23, 73039 Tricase LE; farmaciabalboabar.com
• Taverna del Porto, Tricase We loved this quaint seaside restaurant where the staff fully embrace the rustic, nautical vibe by wearing striped T-shirts and navy aprons. The seafood is incredibly fresh and is artfully displayed on the counter. Order the banquet and pair it with a delicious crisp white wine. Be sure to return another night and head to their upstairs pizzeria for the seafood pizza! Via Lungomare Cristoforo Colombo, 121, 73039 Tricase Porto LE; on Instagram @tavernadelportotricase
• Quanto Basta, Lecce This hipster cocktail bar in Lecce had an extremely impressive drinks menu. Sadly we didn’t make it here but we walked by almost every night and it was always packed with locals! Via Paladini 17,
73100 Lecce LE.
THINGS TO DO
• Grotta della Poesia Only a short drive from Lecce, Grotta della Poesia is a great spot to escape for the day. Located on the archeological site of Roca
Vecchia, this stunning natural pool attracts tourists and locals alike. If you’re feeling daring, the pool is deep enough to dive in from the rock platform above. Strada Statale San Cataldootranto, 73026 Roca Vecchia, Melendugno LE.
• Cala dell’acquaviva If I lived in Puglia, you would find me at Calla dell’acquaviva every day in summer. Dive into the crystal clear water of this gorgeous inlet from the surrounding cliffs, or slightly awkwardly tip-toe in like I did via the pebbles that meet the shore. It’s a 20-minute drive from Tricase; bring a good book, water and some snacks and call it a day. Diso, Via Litoranea, 73030 Marina di Marittima LE.
• Polignano a Mare This unique town perched atop 20-metre-high cliffs with views of the Adriatic sea is not to be missed. The crowds here feel slightly more touristy, but you can’t go past the azure water and surrounding dramatic architecture. Spend some time walking around the town, try a gelato and look for the balcony that provides a stunning view of the beach below.
• Canale del Ciolo A picturesque rocky cove we came across while driving from Tricase to Santa Maria di Leuca. The high cliffs make it another great spot for dare-devil divers and look out for a lovely old Italian man selling fruit. We picked up some delicious peaches and summer fruit for the rest of our journey. 73034 Gagliano del Capo, Lecce LE.
• Grottaglie If you’ve come to Puglia to buy ceramics, a visit to Grottaglie is a must. This town is full of little stores displaying work by various artists from around the region (you may even meet some of them). Make sure you’ve left enough room in your suitcase, as you’ll find it hard to resist temptation.