SMOOTH OPERATORS
THE CLEAN BEAUTY MOVEMENT HAS A NEW HERO: FACE OILS. JULIETTE WINTER SPEAKS TO THE EXPERTS ABOUT THE SOOTHING BENEFITS OF OILS IN YOUR DAILY SKINCARE ROUTINE.
Face oils are all the rage – they sink in quickly, and there’s an oil for every skin type and every use from hydration to anti-ageing.
FACE OILS ARE the Trojan horse of skincare: they can sneak past the skin’s defence barrier, because your complexion catalogues them as innocent. Once through the gates, oils will let loose any active ingredients and potent antioxidants that have come along for the ride to the dermis. “Pure plant oils are pretty much the same size as the natural oils our skin produces, so are the perfect size to be absorbed,” says Arabella Preston, founder of Votary skincare. “And they are so close to our skin’s natural lipids that there is no residue or stickiness.”
That may sound like an oxymoron – oils are, after all, oily – but we can vouch for the fact that it’s true. They sink in like magic if you’re using the right one for your skin type in modest proportions (a few drops go a long way).
“Whatever your skin type, there is a pure, natural face oil that can help balance your skin, even if you tend towards oily,” says Janet Hayward, founder of Cosmos-certified organic face oil brand, Ipsum. “The benefits are instantaneous – skin feels hydrated, supple, smooth and radiant.”
So, which oil should you choose? Shrankhla Holecek, creator of Ayurvedic face oil brand Uma Oils, says grapeseed is ideal for oily skins, because it is anti-inflammatory and helps regulate the skin’s natural oil producing functions. “It’s very rich in lineoleic acid, which essentially thins out thicker sebum production, allowing the skin to detox more readily,” she says. If you have dry skin but are acne prone, she recommends a combination of rosehip and pomegranate. “Pomegranate is so powerful and so rich in vitamins A, K, D, E and antioxidants. It’s an excellent choice for sensitive skins because of its rapid absorption.”
If skin ageing is your main concern, Shrankhla recommends frankincense oil, which, she claims, stimulates healthy cell turnover (the key to youthfulness at any age). “Frankincense’s cellular regeneration properties equal, and often surpass, the qualities of traditional retinols, without the drying, sun sensitivity or skin thinning that retinols can cause,” she says.
Australia also has several native ‘superfruits’ that yield potent anti-ageing oils, including Kakadu plum and Davidson plum, both used in the Ipsum range. “Kakadu plum has 50 times more vitamin C than any other known natural source,” says Janet. “It helps stimulate cell regeneration, collagen production and encourages skin elasticity while helping to reduce pigmentation and brighten skin tone.” In layman’s terms, it is the answer to your prayers if you’re bothered by sunspots, sagging skin or pesky fine lines.
Depending on your skin type, the time and frequency of application will also affect the results. “Dry skin loves face oil at any time of day, even under make-up, but oilier skin types may prefer to use face oil at night,” says Janet.
A makeup artist by trade, Arabella says that oils can actually help make-up sit better on the skin. “Priming your face with oil means skin looks dewy and glowy and gives your foundation extra radiance and luminosity.
It also stops it becoming flaky and patchy as the day progresses,” she says.
Oils will sink in fairly quickly however you apply them, but Janet recommends using a light circular motion in an upward direction. “Many people find that, as they regularly use a face oil, their skin no longer needs the additional step of moisturiser,” she says. If you find yourself with a few spare minutes before bed, use a face roller or your fingertips to really massage the oil in. “I think this gives skin glow, reduces tension in the skin and is an all-over de-stressor,” says Arabella.
For anyone considering streamlining their daily product line-up, face oils tick every single box – they can cleanse just as effectively as hydrate, soothe and plump, and can be used everywhere, even on eyes and especially on lips (where the skin has no lipid-producing cells of its own).
“I could write an essay on this,” says Arabella, who recommends jojoba oil for cleansing. “Pure plant oils are brilliant at whisking away every scrap of the day’s grime, make-up, even mascara and SPF.” Consider double cleansing if you have make-up on – remove the oil with a damp, warm face cloth and repeat the process twice. “I flip the face cloth over for the second cleanse, so that removal is hygienic. Afterwards my skin looks and feels amazing.”
For Shrankhla, her Ayurvedic principles mean she considers oil’s benefits to the whole person as much as the skin. “Sandalwood lends luminosity to the skin, but also has a deeply grounding effect on the mind and body. Rose oil has a potent impact on hydration retention and also on hormone balance,” she says. “Finding the right oil is a game changer. Your skin will truly never look back.”
Finding the right oil is a game changer. Your skin will truly never look back.