Thrill of the grill

FORGET GAS, FORGET FILLETS – STEVE CUMPER SHARES THE JUICY DELIGHTS OF A WHOLE FISH COOKED OVER CHARCOAL.

THERE ARE TWO types of people in this world: those who barbecue (grill) with gas and those who use charcoal.

Sure, the convenience of lighting a gas barbie and instantly cooking some snags can’t be overstated; however, when it comes to flavour, there’s no substitute to charcoal grilling.

I say this with authority as, after years of grilling the gaseous way, I had an epiphany – and it arrived in the shape of a domed, el-cheapo barbecue from Bunnings. No sooner had I got the charcoals smouldering than they had transformed into white-hot heat baubles and I was ready to grill. The item awaiting the charcoal treatment was marinated chicken skewers. I’d pre-soaked the wooden skewers in water (so they wouldn’t burn and disintegrate over the heat). The first thing you notice is the smell of the barbecue. Gone is the whiff of mercaptan, the sulphur-like aroma added to natural gas and the oily chemical smell that occurs when flames suddenly burst out when splattered with fat dripping from the meat. In its place is the agreeably smoky tang of browning protein imbued with wafts of scorched garlic and oil. These sensations alone are enough to get the stomach rumbling.

Over the years, I’d enjoyed freshly barbecued meat over fire, and

I recall returning to the beach after fishing with mates one time. Our catch – flathead, a stripy trumpeter and a bony wrasse – was scaled as the stubbies were opened and the collected beach wood caught alight.

Nothing quite trumps eating fish that you’ve just caught on the beach; it makes going to even the best fishmonger quite the let-down.

While some might shy away from a whole fish because of the perceived fuss of dealing with bones, skin and the like, I suggest giving it a go, as the rewards are numerous.

Firstly, these days, when we’re all conscious of waste and impacts to our environment, using the whole fish is like using the secondary cuts of meat, meaning the fishmonger doesn’t have to sell or waste the rest of the fish.

Secondly, meat tastes better on the bone and fish is no different. Thirdly, and most importantly, there’s no confusion or possible subterfuge in eating a whole fish – you’re getting exactly what you ordered. There’s no way of passing off one fillet of fish for another, slyly concealed in a batter or crumb. I’d add that serving a whole fish is a wonderful way to coax people toward the experience of the shared table, where one can eat as much or as little as one likes, without having to consume everything that’s put in front of them.

The recipe I’ve included imbues our very Australian fish with a decidedly South American flavour. Buen provecho! (Enjoy your meal!)

COAL-GRILLED WHOLE FLATHEAD WITH CHIMICHURRI

Serves 4

1 long red chilli, finely diced

1 teaspoon dried oregano

8 cloves garlic, crushed

200ml extra virgin olive oil

2 lemons, cut into cheeks, plus 1 lemon,

zested and juiced

1 red onion, finely diced

1 teaspoon sea salt flakes

½ cup flat-leaf parsley, chopped

½ cup coriander, chopped

½ cup chopped mint leaves ½ teaspoon cracked black pepper 100ml red wine vinegar

4 whole flathead, scaled, gutted and

cleaned (about 700g each)

Get your charcoal barbecue going in the usual manner. Wait until the coals have died down but the heat is still present.

In a small saucepan, gently heat the chilli, dried oregano, garlic and 60ml of the olive oil to release their fragrance; cool to room temperature.

To make the chimichurri, in a medium bowl combine the finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon, the red onion and salt and massage them together with your hands for a few minutes. The onion will become much brighter and the texture will soften considerably.

Add the garlic mixture to the lemon mixture. Add the herbs, pepper,