HISTORY LESSON
WITH FINE DINING AND WINE, PLUS HISTORIC HOMESTEADS, MUSEUMS AND NATURAL WONDERS, THE TINY BUT MIGHTY AUSTRALIAN CAPITAL TERRITORY HAS MUCH TO OFFER.
DAY 1 CANBERRA
Canberra has a dizzying array of cultural highlights to choose from. Take in art at the National Gallery of Australia, the National Museum of Australia and the National Portrait Gallery, and pay your respects at the Australian War Memorial. There are curiosities, too: visit one of the oldest surviving steam engines in Australia and make yourself comfortable on a luxury Pullman sleeping car at the Canberra Railway Museum. Of course, the capital also has a healthy outdoors scene, too: a cycle or hike around Lake Burley Griffin is a classic way to spend a Canberra afternoon, and don’t miss the view from Mount Ainslie Lookout. The National Arboretum Canberra and Australian National Botanic Gardens provide opportunities to stroll among greenery, and come nightfall, the Mount Stromlo Observatory will have you seeing stars – in a good way. Where to stay: Revel in Art Deco luxury at the Hyatt Hotel Canberra.
Built in 1924, it retains a lovely heritage feel. hyatthotelcanberra.com Where to eat: With no fewer than two chef hats, Aubergine is a classic of capital fine dining. Or sample wood-fired pizza, tapas and a buzzing atmosphere at Ostani at Hotel Realm.
DAY 2 CANBERRA TO THARWA
Just a 40-minute drive from the capital is the little town of Tharwa, which dates back to the 1860s, making it the ACT’S oldest official settlement. Drop in at the Tharwa Country Store, which looks the same as it has for generations, and tour the historic Lanyon Homestead (make sure you book in advance). And the history doesn’t end there. Long a sacred place to the Ngunnawal people, Tidbinbilla Nature Reserve is home to one of the world’s oldest inhabited rock shelters, the Birrigai Rock Shelter, which you can walk to. The reserve is honeycombed with 22 marked trails that range from a quick stroll to hikes that take an entire day.
In these pristine surroundings, you might just spot koalas, wombats, emus and platypus. You can also visit the restored ruins of Rock Valley Homestead, built in 1895, and the lovely Gibraltar Falls.
Where to stay: Call in to heritage homestead Cuppacumbalong, which dates back to the 1920s, for afternoon tea or an overnight stay (although the facilities are fairly basic). If you don’t mind even more basic, camp out at Nil Desperandum, another heritage home operated by the ACT Parks and Conservation Service. Accessible only by four-wheel drive, the homestead has a long-drop loo, solar electricity and no running water – but it’s imbued with a true sense of history, and the surroundings of the Tidbinbilla Nature Reserve can’t be beaten for beauty and tranquillity. cuppacumbalong.com.au or airbnb.com.au
Where to eat: Enjoy lunch at the Barracks in Lanyon Homestead or the cafe at the Tharwa Country Store, and stock up on dinner supplies at Lanyon Marketplace. >
DAY 3 THARWA TO MURRUMBATEMAN
Today we’re rolling up the highway and into the Canberra District wine region. Technically it’s just over the border in NSW, but what’s a few kilometres between friends? This is shiraz country, and Clonakilla makes some of the best in the world. Taste it at the rustic cellar door built from local stone and timber (the bar is crafted from the winery’s old oak barrels). At family-owned Helm Wines, you can taste the awardwinning drops inside the heritagelisted 1888 Toual Public School House, which serves as the cellar door. Then come back to the 21st century with a bang at Shaw Wines’ architecturally designed cellar door.
Where to stay: Experience life at the turn of the last century at Merryville Homestead. Or relax in the stylish and contemporary Abode Murrumbateman. historicmerryvillehomestead.com or abodehotels.com.au
Where to eat: Lunch at Smokehouse Restaurant in the delightful Poachers Pantry, or order a pizza at Four Winds Vineyard. Later, dine in style at Shaw Wines’ restaurant, Olleyville.
DAY 4 MURRUMBATEMAN TO CANBERRA
On the loop back to Canberra there are still more wineries to take in. Yarrh Wines, Collector Wines and Lerida Estate Winery are all well worth the stop. Drop in to Robyn Rowe Chocolates for handmade treats crafted using exquisite Belgian couverture, and visit the beautifully preserved 1830s village of Gundaroo, which has a surprising variety of places to eat (try the award-winning Grazing inside the historic Royal Hotel, or tuck into a pizza at the Cork Street Cafe) and plenty of heritage homes to dream about.
Where to stay: Back in Canberra, try one of two chic options: Little National Hotel or Hotel Realm.
littlenationalhotel.com.au or
hotelrealm.com.au