If it ain’t broke…
WHEN A MAGNIFICENT MEAL IS PRAISED BY THE EXPERTS, YOU DON’T CHANGE A THING, SAYS STEVE CUMPER.
moment of humblebragging. Years ago, when Adelaide was (I’m not saying it isn’t now!) basking in the golden glow of a vibrant food scene, having gifted to the pantheon of Australian cooking deities the likes of Phillip Searle, Christine Manfield, Lew Kathreptis, Maggie Beer and Cheong Liew, I was rattling the pans in my first proper head chef job at a fashionable joint in the good part of Rundle Street.
These professionals cast a looming shadow of enviable accomplishment over journeymen and women like myself, and they were an inspiration. So, imagine my excitement when we were visited by the pre-eminent food critic of the day, Terry Durack. Cooking three courses for his table went without a hitch, though I was in equal parts terrified and elated.
I still recall our small team pressing our snouts against the kitchen door window, squinting into the dimly lit dining room to locate Mr Durack, who had his back to the kitchen.
Anyway, the weeks passed, until one day the issue of the monthly foodie magazine arrived. My shaking hands could barely release the mag from its plastic sheath. I flicked the pages quickly, like a casino poker dealer does a deck, until I found it.
My mouth mimicked the words
I was absorbing until I came across the quote that made my heart flutter with pride: “I used to think only the Chinese and the French could cook Duck, but Cumper doesn’t sound like a Chinese or French surname.”
I felt quite the sense of relief and satisfaction; it was validation of my choice of career. As a result, I have cooked duck the same way ever since.
To embellish the dish with a little pizzazz, simply add cherries. I like to use already preserved cherries, but fresh ones work just as well.
Oh, and just a whisper between you and me, should you ever get your hands on a goose, cooking it the same way as the duck will result in the same excellent outcome. I’m sure you already know that goose was the preferred Christmas table fowl before duck swooped in and stole the glory… but somehow I think geese are smarter than ducks, don’t you?
ROAST DUCK WITH CHERRIES
Serves 4
1 whole duck (approximately 2.2kg) Extra virgin olive oil
500ml chicken stock
1 cup (250ml) red wine
500g pitted morello or dark cherries
in syrup
100g butter
1 teaspoon caraway seeds
3 bay leaves
2 carrots, finely diced
1 stalk celery, finely diced
2 brown onions, finely diced
1 head garlic, cloves crushed
¼ bunch flat-leaf parsley, chopped thinly Roasted potatoes, to serve (optional)
Preheat oven to 200°C (fan-forced). Pat the duck dry with paper towel, then season well with salt and pepper.
Place duck in a 5cm-deep roasting pan, drizzle olive oil over the top and rub it into the skin. Roast duck in the oven for 30 minutes or until skin is browned, then add enough chicken stock to half-cover the duck. Pour in wine, then cover tray tightly with foil, making sure each edge is secure.
Reduce oven temperature to 150°C and roast for a further 1.5 hours. Remove duck from the oven and peel back the foil; a pinch where the leg meets the body should reveal a soft unctuousness with little resistance.
Meanwhile, drain the cherries and collect the liquid in a saucepan. Reduce liquid over high heat for 6-8 minutes or until it becomes thick and syrupy. Set aside.
Pour the cooking liquid from the roasting pan into a jug – allow to sit, then skim any fat off the top with a spoon and reserve for roast potatoes.
Brush the duck with cherry syrup and return to the oven at 160°C (fan-forced) for 30 minutes; the skin should be nicely glazed.
Heat 50g of the butter in a saucepan over medium heat until frothing. Add caraway seeds and bay leaves; stir for 2 minutes, then add diced vegetables and garlic. Cook for 5 minutes or until softened. Add the reserved cooking liquid, bring to a simmer and reduce the sauce to half its volume. Strain into a new saucepan and heat, then whisk in the remaining butter; finish with parsley and cherries.
Present the duck whole and pour the sauce over the top. Serve with roasted potatoes, if desired.