PEDALS GROUP TEST

Whether you’re a beginner or seasoned veteran clipping-in will make your pedalling faster and more efficient

A round-up of 16 pairs of this crucial contact point, from simple commuting pedals to full-on data gathering options.

Originally, cyclists rode with toe clips and straps to hold the foot and help with pulling on the up stroke. Then in 1984 French company Look, a ski binding manufacturer at the time, invented the PP65 clip-in pedal that allowed the foot to be released with a sideways twisting motion. Designed by Jean Beyl, they revolutionised the way we pedal and became the norm in professional road circles. Perhaps confusingly known as clipless, even though you ‘clip in’ to them.

Soon other brands joined the pedal party. In 1988 Time introduced its pedal that was the first to feature float - the number of degrees the foot can move before releasing. The idea being to reduce knee and pedalling-related injuries.

A year later, in the USA, Speedplay launched its low-profile, lollipop-shaped X-Series pedals. These offered unrestricted float and were designed so the knees didn’t work against the tension of the spring, to prevent injuries. These were light but used bulkier cleats.

In the early 1990s Shimano released its PD7410 SPD (Shimano Pedal Dynamic) road pedals. These were smaller, using a two-bolt system, its three-bolt pedals came later. A mountain bike version was launched soon after that, and became hugely popular because the cleat could sit inside the sole making it easier to walk.

Clipping-in is an art and can initially feel dangerous, but gets easier with time. Loosening the release tension is a good idea for beginners enabling you to unclip with less force.

Riding clipped-in is a rite of passage for anyone who cycles, whether it’s a professional roadie, a summer sportive rider, the daily commuter, cycle tourist or anyone in between. Being clipped-in is the most efficient way of pedalling and will give the biggest bang for your efforts. The pedals are a vital connection transferring your effort into movement.

Choosing the right pedals depends on the riding you’re doing. Any of the nowstandard three-bolt systems work well for most road duties. If you need to walk around in a shoe for commuting/touring the two-bolt system is probably better. As for the model this will come down to budget, injury history, weight worries and even the pedals’ wind-cheating abilities.

1 BEARINGS At the budget end pedals use cheaper loose ball bearings. As price goes up sealed cartridge and roller bearings are used. Roller bearings, or needle bearings, are small rollers rather than round balls. Sealed bearings help to keep the dirt out and therefore require less maintenance. 2 BODY The pedal body is the main part that connects the shoe with the pedal. These come in various shapes, sizes and weights. They are available in different materials ranging from aluminium to composite nylon materials and lightweight carbon fibre. The latter will add to the price. 3 FLOAT Float is measured in degrees and refers to the amount your foot can move before it is released from the pedal. This allows for natural movement and reduces stress on the body, particularly the knees. The most common is between three and nine degrees. 5 SPINDLE This is the axle that runs through the centre of the pedal bodies and connects them to the bike. These can be made from various types of steel through to more exotic lightweight materials like titanium, but this adds to the overall price. 4 TENSION This is the amount of force required to release the foot from the pedal, and is adjustable on most pedals. Beginners might prefer a low tension release, making it easier to get in and out. This tension can be increased as confidence builds for a more secure connection. 6 STACK HEIGHT Stack height is measured from the centre of the pedal spindle to the sole of the shoe. A low stack height is more efficient and offers the greatest stability. This varies between pedals and brands, and may require a change in saddle height to balance things out.