POSITION IN THE SADDLE
Small shifts in your seated position can make a big difference to your ride
While there are only two fundamental positions when cycling – in or out of the saddle – each has its optimum moment to be employed, and within both there are nuances that riders use to improve performance, increase speed, enhance control or retain energy. Switching positions too often will just waste energy, though you may find that to reduce muscle fatigue on long rides, it pays to take any opportunity to stretch or move from aero to upright.
Climbs, descents, cornering and sprints all require adaptations to your position to improve efficiency and shift your centre of gravity, though the position of the hands is usually pretty constant – as close to the brakes as possible. The more you ride, the more you’ll learn how to use your positioning to improve your performance.
Developing a pre-ride warm-up routine and post-ride muscle relaxation programme will help counter muscle problems thrown up by long rides, especially as you familiarise yourself with your bike and the varying positions required for different situations. Always listen to your body as you try these positions out for size. 01 HOLD THE HOODS
“The basic position when seated on a road bike is with the hands on the hoods – ensuring they’re closest to and covering the brakes, plus the gears – while keeping the upper body upright and viewing the road ahead.” 02 SHORT STAND
“Standing out of the saddle is seen by some as being great for short bursts when more power is needed, on climbs in particular. For others it’s a chance change position to alleviate fatigue. In most circumstances it’s best used sparingly, as it’s less efficient in terms of aerodynamics and energy expenditure.” 03 INCLINE HANDS
“Keep your hands on the hoods as you climb. If you’re standing then pulling on the handlebars may help create more power. You may have also been told to ‘pull up’ during your pedal stroke, this myth has been debunked by research, and pedalling the bike autonomically is usually the most efficient way.” 04 BOW LOW
“Aim to make being aero second nature. When you’re riding on the hoods get your elbows low so your forearms are parallel, tucking your head in when you’re riding for a more streamlined overall body position.” 05 DROP DESCENT
“Maintain that hand position on the drops when cornering, especially on descents. You’ll spread your weight more evenly and you lower your centre of gravity to maintain pace but ensure control. This is also the preferred sprinting position. It puts you in the
“CLIMB S, DESCENT SAND SPRINTS ALL REQUIRE
ADAPTATION S TO YOUR POSITION IN THE SADDLE”
“HOLDING THE TOP OF THE BARS CAN RELIEVE MUSCLE TENSION IN THE ARMS AND SHOULDERS”
most control while ensuring you’re as aerodynamic as possible. 06 TOP CLIMBS
“Switching to hold the top of the bars can relieve muscle tension in the arms, hands and shoulders and is good on long, steady climbs where there’s less need to be close to the brakes and maintain an aero position. It enables you to climb comfortably, opening up your hip angle, which encourages your diaphragm to fully contract.”