Bike tech explained

Your quickfire guide to bike jargon

Butted tubing

● Butted tubes have a constant outside diameter but the wall thickness varies inside. On a doublebutted tube the ends of the tube are thicker (usually 0.8mm compared to 0.5mm in the middle of the tube). This helps weld strength at the ends while reducing weight in the centre.

Long frontcentre

● The distance from the centre of the bottom bracket to the centre of the front wheel axle. A longer front-centre increases steering stability when descending thanks to better weight distribution. It helps prevent you going over the bars when the front wheel hits bumps on steeper descents.

Microshift Advent X rear derailleur

● You can switch the ratchet-and-pawl clutch chain stabiliser on (to calm chain bounce and give you smoother gear changes on rougher terrain) and off (when it’s not needed on smoother terrain) thanks to a lever. Large jockey wheels with tall teeth also help improve chain retention and control.

It’s compatible with most 10-speed chains and most 11-48t cassettes with a max largest sprocket compatibility of 48t.

Dropper post

● You can lower this seatpost to allow you to manoeuvre the bike more easily in technical downhill sections. It often comes with a handlebar-mounted remote control so you can it lower automatically.

700c v 650b wheels

● A larger wheel will have less rolling resistance, carrying more momentum for longer. It can also roll over obstacles better. A smaller wheel will accelerate quicker to get you up short, sharp slopes more easily, handle faster, and also gives you more space to run wider tyres that will help with grip and soaking up bumps.

Tubeless-ready wheels

● These allow you to use tubeless tyres, rim tape, valves and a tyre sealant so you don’t need inner tubes. Tubeless tyres can be run at lower pressures for comfort on rough terrain, and virtually eliminate pinch punctures.