Catch of the day

Your ultimate guide to enjoying Sydney rock oysters.

SOMETIMES THE MOST beautiful things are right under your nose without you even realising. It’s hard to believe, but one of the greatest culinary jewels of the sea – the Sydney rock oyster – was first harvested for the lime in its shell, rather than its luxurious eating properties.

Endemic to Australia, Sydney rock is an odd name considering these oysters grow predominantly along 1500km of coastline from southern Queensland to Mallacoota on the NSW-Victoria border.

Although each region produces very different oysters, the Sydney rock is characterised by its deep, rich and lasting sweetness. According to John Susman, from seafood consultancy Fishtales, it is like no other on the planet.

“I’ve not eaten an oyster anywhere with its level of complexity, from the feral vegetal notes through the mineral intensity to the astringent copper-like finish,” he says. “The Sydney rock has a complexity and depth that is way more interesting than the singular characteristics often displayed in Pacific and angasi (native) oysters.”

But with such character on the palate, should the Sydney rock be cooked?

“Yes, they can be – just as you can add Fanta to Grange Hermitage if you choose!” laughs Susman. “But the popularity of the classic Kilpatrick version, with bacon and Worcestershire sauce, recognises how the briny complexity works tremendously with the fatty richness of cured pork.”

Roasted over coals, the rich protein of a rock can also take on really interesting flavours, and even when shallow-fried in a light batter, not only does the texture change, but so too the flavour.

“Clearly, it is much harder to interpret the seasonal or regional nuances of an oyster once cooked, but they certainly can be richly delicious,” says Susman.

But as nice as a cooked oyster can be, Susman is a purist. Once you’ve mastered the art of opening them, he recommends you follow this routine: “Sydney rock oysters are at their best freshly shucked and eaten raw with your feet dangling off a pier and accompanied by an icy-cold Hunter Valley semillon.”