I’m loving

Matt Preston celebrates silverbeet.

THREE YEARS AGO, I came to this place to preach on the subject of why silverbeet is so much better than kale, but it appears some of you need more convincing.

My love affair with silverbeet began a decade ago. I was mesmerised by the dark-green, glossy profusion in my father-inlaw’s garden. I remember marvelling at how, when the vegetable patch was a wasteland, the proud plumes of glossy silverbeet, rainbow chard and ruby chard stood proudly full of promise. That promise, a flavour that is both earthy and juicy, bitter and sweet.

Before we talk dishes, let’s talk about this wonderful plant that is really two ingredients in one. The white stem takes longer to cook but is juicy; the green leaves have more texture than spinach and, I feel, a superior flavour without that tannic, iron aftertaste. These traits all shine in the silverbeet inspiration contained in this list of the… seven best things to do with silverbeet.

BRAISE IT The easiest way to use silverbeet. Cut out the central stems and save them to use in soups or stew, as a pickle, or steamed to serve with a poached egg, burnt butter and bacon breadcrumbs. Cook the shredded leaves in a pan with olive oil or butter and sliced garlic. The silverbeet will give up its own juices, so no need to add stock, water or wine. Finish with a splash of lemon or a glug of cream and a grate of nutmeg, or step it up by crumbling in blue cheese and walnuts.

WRAP OR LAYER IT Blanch whole, trimmed silverbeet leaves in boiling water to soften, then refresh and dry. Use these now-softened leaves to add a green layer to a lasagne; to wrap a filling of rice, herbs, tomato and baharat- spiced onions for steaming, tightly packed like dolmades; or to wrap fillets of firm-fleshed white fish for slow pan-frying or braising in a tomato sauce.

SOUP IT When using the leaves to wrap ingredients, there are invariably trimmings that can be used for soup, whether cooking sliced stems with an onion base for a minestrone, bean-filled ribollita or Portuguese caldo verde, then adding the leaves later.

PUT IT IN A PIE Silverbeet is wonderful, given its robustness, used in your favourite spanakopita or börek recipe. Or in Phoebe Wood’s calzone-like erbazzone with parsley, ricotta and lots of parmesan in a baked shortcrust pastry coffin (search delicious.com.au for ‘ erbazzone’). You can also use silverbeet in any tart instead of kale or spinach.

USE IT IN A SAUCE This vegetable will add body to any tomato sauce. Cook trimmed and diced stems with onions, then add the leaves for the final 10 minutes of cooking so they retain a little bite. Take the same approach when cooking a Spanish stew with chorizo and chickpeas: fr y stems with sliced onion to start. When softened, add crushed garlic, chopped parsley stalks, a strip of lemon zest and chorizo. When the chorizo is cooked, add smoked paprika, chunks of capsicum and ribbons of silverbeet leaves. Fry until leaves start to brighten, then add chickpeas and a couple of tins of tomatoes. Bring to the boil and simmer for five minutes. Season with lemon and salt. Garnish with parsley leaves and serve with crusty bread.

ADD IT TO A MEAL The stems can be pickled to serve with roast beef or lamb. Or use finely shredded young silverbeet leaves in a salad of roast beetroot. Add goat’s cheese for its creamy saltiness, walnuts for crunch and orange to provide freshness.

My father-in-law’s vegetable patch is now untended, but the silverbeet that first inspired hung on till last. I find something deeply comforting about that, and used in this vegetarian recipe that follows, makes it easily one of the seven best things to do with silverbeet.

SILVERBEET & CHICKPEA PUTTANESCA SERVES 4

1/ 3 cup (80ml) extra virgin olive oil, plus extra to serve 1 bunch silverbeet, stems thinly sliced, leaves torn 4 garlic cloves, crushed 1 long red chilli, seeds removed, finely chopped 4 anchovy fillets in oil, drained 2 x 400g cans cherry tomatoes 400g can chickpeas, rinsed, drained 1 cup (150g) pitted kalamata olives 2 tbs baby capers in vinegar Finely grated zest of 1 lemon 1/ 2 cup (125ml) red wine Sourdough, to serve

Heat oil in a large frypan over medium heat. Add silverbeet stems and cook, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes or until softened. Add garlic, chilli and anchovies, and cook, stirring regularly, for 3 minutes or until garlic is lightly golden. Add tomatoes, chickpeas, olives, capers, lemon zest and wine, and bring to a simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 10-12 minutes or until thickened. Add silverbeet leaves and cook, stirring regularly, for 3 minutes or until leaves have wilted. Drizzle with extra oil and serve with sourdough, baked potatoes or your favourite pasta.