Catch of the day
Anthony Huckstep meets a delicate yet feisty fish that’s a snap to fillet. And the flavour? Best thing since sliced bread.
Garfish is the best thing since sliced bread in Anthony Huckstep’s world.
THE BEAK OR BILL is a fairly unique facial feature of our feathered friends, dinosaurs and, of course, the platypus. But they’re not the only ones with a protruding pecker.
Garfish, the slender, silver dart of the sea, boasts a pencil-like beak full of tiny jagged teeth, used for fighting and sifting through seaweed for a feed. And for its feistiness, garfish has earned the nickname ‘needlefish’. Handle with care when catching them and you’ll be rewarded.
“There are a few species in Australia,” says John Susman of Seafood consultancy Fishtales. “Most average 20-45cm in length and 100-300g, but can be bigger. The most common are Southern Sea, Snubnose, Eastern Sea, Shortnose and the Three-by-two garfish from Queensland.”
But if you’re fossicking around the local fish market, you’re more likely to discover Eastern Sea and Southern Sea garfish – both fast-growing, in abundance and found along most of Australia’s coastline.
They are a prize catch for not only their stunning form, but the ease of filleting and superb eating qualities. “Filleters in South Australia can fillet and bone a garfish in two strokes of the knife,” says Susman. “One takes the backbone and one rib cage out, the second cut takes the other rib cage out – perfectly butterflied.”
But it’s not only the ease of filleting, according to Susman. “The fine pin bones are edible, so once the backbone and rib cage are removed, they are good to go in the frying pan and down the hatch!”
Even so, the delicate nature of this thin fish needs some attention. Garfish can deteriorate quickly, so make sure they’re super fresh, fillet before using and pay attention when cooking. The opaque flesh cooks quickly to a snow white, but it’s just as spectacular as sashimi.
When cooking fillets, Susman suggests warming frypan and butter first, then removing the pan from direct heat and letting the fillet warm through in the bubbling butter. “I love them lightly dusted in flour and pan-fried in butter, then a squeeze of lemon and served between two slices of Tip Top white slice smothered with butter,” he says.