It’s the after-hours haunt of Sydney’s hospitality crews – and our very own Phoebe Wood. Now you can re-create Chinatown legend Golden Century’s greatest hits at home.
Phoebe Wood takes Asian inspiration from a late-night legend.
“WHEN IT COMES TO LATE-NIGHT EATS IN SYDNEY, YOU CAN’T GO PAST SPINNING THE LAZY SUSAN AT CHINATOWN’S GOLDEN CENTURY. AND IF YOU ASK ANY CHEF WHAT TO ORDER, XO PIPIS WILL BE THE RESOUNDING RESPONSE. THESE RECIPES TAKE INSPIRATION FROM THE ICONIC DINING INSTITUTION, AND THE MANY GREAT FOOD MEMORIES I HAVE OF IT.”
Phoebe Wood, Food Director
PIPIS IN XO AND ’NDUJA SERVES 4-6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
1/4 cup (60ml) sunflower oil 4 long green shallots, chopped
1/ 2 bunch garlic shoots, chopped 2cm piece (10g) ginger, finely chopped 100g ’nduja (spreadable spicy salami) 21/ 2 tbs good-quality XO sauce
(we used Lee Kum Kee brand) 2 tsp each cornflour and caster sugar 2 tbs Chinese rice wine (shaohsing –
from Asian food shops) 1kg pot-ready pipis
Heat oil in a wok over medium-high heat. Add shallot, garlic shoot, ginger and ’nduja, and cook, breaking up ’nduja with a wooden spoon, for 1-2 minutes or until oil begins to separate. Add XO sauce and stir to combine.
Combine cornflour, sugar and shaohsing in a bowl to dissolve cornflour. Add to wok and simmer for 1 minute, then add pipis and cover with a lid. Cook, shaking wok, for 3-4 minutes or until pipis open. Discard any that remain closed. Transfer to a serving platter and serve immediately.
FRIED RICE WITH CUTTLEFISH SERVES 4-6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
Cook rice the day before for best results.
3 cuttlefish tubes, very thinly sliced 2 tsp sesame oil 11/ 2 tsp hot chill condiment 1 tbs light soy sauce 2 tbs peanut oil 5 smoked bacon rashers, chopped 4 long green shallots, thinly sliced 4 garlic cloves, roughly chopped 4cm piece (20g) ginger, finely chopped 3 eggs, lightly beaten 11/ 2 cups medium-grain rice, cooked according to packet instructions, cooled completely Fried Asian shallots, to serve
Place cuttlefish in a bowl with 1/2 tsp sesame oil, chilli condiment and 2 tsp soy. Set aside to marinate for 5 minutes.
Heat peanut oil over high heat and add bacon. Cook, stirring with a metal spoon, for 2-3 minutes or until light golden and fat is rendered from bacon. Add shallot, garlic and ginger, and stir for 30 seconds or until fragrant. Add egg and stir, breaking egg up with spoon, until just cooked. Add rice, stir to coat and cook, without stirring, for 2-3 minutes to create a golden crust on underside of rice. Stir again and repeat to form crust. Transfer rice mixture to a bowl.
Return pan to high heat and add cuttlefish and marinade. Stir for 1 minute or until just cooked, then return rice to wok and stir to coat. Season with remaining 2 tsp soy and remaining 11/ 2 tsp sesame oil. Serve scattered with fried shallots.
SWEET & SOUR PORK SERVES 4-6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
1/ 3 cup (50g) potato flour (from health food shops and Asian food shops) 2/ 3 cup (100g) plain flour, plus 2 tbs extra 11/ 3 cup (330ml) chilled soda water 1kg pork tenderloin, cut into 3cm pieces Sunflower oil, to deep-fry Sliced red chilli and coriander, to serve
SWEET & SOUR SAUCE
1 cup (250ml) chicken stock
1/ 2 cup (125ml) tomato ketchup 11/ 3 cup (330g) brown sugar 11/ 3 cup (330ml) rice wine vinegar 1 cup (250ml) light soy sauce 1 tsp Chinese fifive spice powder 1/ 2 (about 500g) ripe pineapple, peeled, finely chopped
For sweet and sour sauce, place all ingredients in a large frypan over mediumhigh heat and cook, stirring to dissolve sugar. Simmer for 20-30 minutes or until slightly thickened. Remove from heat and set aside, then whiz with a hand blender until smooth. Return to pan.
To make batter, combine potato flour, flour and soda water in a bowl and whisk until smooth. Half-fill a saucepan with oil and heat to 190°C (a cube of bread will turn golden in 55 seconds when oil is hot enough). In batches, toss pork with extra 2 tbs flour to coat, then dip in batter, allowing excess to drip off. Add to oil and cook, turning, for 3-4 minutes or until golden and crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towel. Repeat with remaining pork and batter.
Reheat sauce over medium heat and add fried pork. Serve with chilli and coriander.
BEEF BRISKET HOT POT SERVES 6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
Begin this recipe at least 8 hours ahead.
1 tbs peanut oil 1kg centre-cut beef brisket 4cm piece (20g) ginger, sliced 4 star anise 4 garlic cloves, sliced 4 thick strips orange peel 1 onion, thinly sliced 1/ 3 cup (80ml) oyster sauce 1/4 cup (60g) brown sugar 1 cup (250g) Chinese rice wine (shaohsing – from Asian food shops) 2/ 3 cup (165ml) Chinese black (chinkiang) vinegar (from Asian food shops) 1/ 3 cup (80ml) light soy sauce 6 dried shiitake mushrooms 1 cinnamon quill 10 dried red chillies 150g fresh shiitake mushrooms
Heat oil in a cast-iron pan over mediumhigh heat. Season fat side of brisket, then place, fat-side down, in pan and render fat for 6-7 minutes or until deep golden. Turn and seal opposite side for 2-3 minutes or until golden. Remove brisket from pan and discard fat. Return brisket to pan and return to heat. Add remaining ingredients, except fresh shiitake, and cover with water (about 2 cups). Bring to the boil. Reduce heat to low, cover with a lid and simmer for 7-8 hours or until brisket is very tender. Stir through fresh shiitake in last 10 minutes of cooking time. Season and serve.
SWEET CORN SOUP SERVES 4-6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
3 eschalots, finely chopped 2cm piece (10g) ginger, finely chopped 1 long green chilli, finely chopped,
plus extra sliced chilli to serve
“THIS RECIPE IS SURF ’N’ TURF AT ITS BEST, BECAUSE IT ALSO INCLUDES MY FAVOURITE FOOD – NOODLES! ADD EXTRA CHILLI DEPENDING ON YOUR TOLERANCE LEVELS.”
“HONEY CHICKEN MIGHT BE RETRO, BUT IT DEFINITELY DESERVES TO BE REVIVED. USE A GOOD-QUALITY HONEY FOR THE BEST FLAVOUR.”
50g unsalted butter 5 corn cobs, kernels sliced 5 cups (1.25L) chicken stock 1/4 cup (60ml) Chinese rice wine (shaohsing – from Asian food shops) 1 tbs light soy sauce 2 tsp rice wine vinegar Sesame seeds and shredded long green
shallots, to serve
Place eschalot, ginger, chilli and butter in a large saucepan over medium-low heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 5-6 minutes or until softened. Add corn kernels and stir to coat. Add stock and shaohsing, and bring to a simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 12-15 minutes or until corn is very soft. Add soy and rice wine vinegar. Transfer half soup to a blender and whiz until smooth. Return to pan. Divide soup among bowls and scatter with extra green chilli, sesame seeds and shallot to serve.
HONEY CHICKEN SERVES 4-6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
2/ 3 cup (100g) self-raising flour 700g skinless chicken thigh fillets, cut into thirds 1/ 2 tsp bicarbonate of soda 80g potato flour (from health food shops
and Asian food shops) 11/ 3 cups (330ml) chilled soda water 1 eggwhite, lightly whisked to soft peaks
1/ 3 cup (80ml) light soy sauce 1 cup (250ml) runny honey 1 tsp sesame oil 2 tbs rice wine vinegar
1/ 2 tsp sambal oelek Sunflower oil, to deep-fry Toasted sesame seeds, to serve
Place 2 tbs self-raising flour in a bowl, add chicken and toss to coat. Place bicarb, potato flour and remaining self-raising flour in a second large bowl. Make a well in the centre and add soda water, whisking to combine, then stir in eggwhite.
Place soy, honey, sesame, vinegar and sambal in a large frypan over medium heat and stir to combine. Bring to a simmer and cook for 5-6 minutes or until slightly reduced and honey is dark golden.
Half fill a wok or saucepan with oil and heat to 180°C (a cube of bread will turn golden in 90 seconds when oil is hot enough). In 2 batches, dip flour-coated chicken into batter, allowing excess to drip off, and add to oil. Cook, turning occasionally, for 6-7 minutes or until cooked through. Remove using a slotted spoon and drain on paper towel. Repeat with remaining chicken.
Reheat honey mixture and add chicken, turning with tongs to coat. Arrange chicken on a plate, drizzle with some honey mixture and scatter with sesame seeds to serve.
COMBINATION NOODLES SERVES 4
250g chicken mince 2 tbs chilli bean paste 100ml sunflower oil 12 green prawns, peeled (tails intact),
deveined 1 tsp sesame oil 6cm piece (30g) ginger, finely chopped 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 eschalots, thinly sliced 5 fresh shiitake mushrooms,
finely chopped 10 water chestnuts 1 tsp cornflour
1/ 3 cup (80ml) light soy sauce 2 tsp hoisin sauce 2 tbs chicken stock 300g fresh thin egg noodles,
Heat a wok over high heat. Place mince and chilli bean paste in a bowl and stir to combine. Add 2 tbs sunflower oil to wok and add mince mixture. Cook, breaking up with a wooden spoon, for 5-6 minutes or until golden and cooked through. Transfer to a bowl and set aside. Add 1 tbs sunflower oil to wok, then add prawns and
1/ 2 tsp sesame oil. Cook for 2-3 minutes or until just cooked through. Transfer to bowl with mince mixture. Heat remaining 2 tbs oil in wok, add ginger, garlic and eschalot. Stir for 2-3 minutes or until golden and lightly softened. Add mushroom and chestnuts, and toss for 30 seconds.
Combine cornflour, soy, hoisin and stock in a bowl. Add noodles to pan with cornflour mixture and toss to coat. Cook for 1 minute, then return chicken mixture to pan and toss to combine. Divide among bowls and serve.
Pipis in XO and ‘nduja (recipe p 98).
Fried rice with cuttlefish (recipe p 98).
@phoeberosewood For more crowd-pleasing dishes ready in a flash. Sweet & sour pork (recipe p 96).
Combination noodles (recipe p 101).
Sweet corn soup (recipe p 98).