delicious

James Viles

It’s the result of a radical rethink of how he wants to live and eat. Biota’s James Viles tells delicious. why he’s gone back to nature with his new venture, Barn, in the NSW Southern Highlands.

- WORDS PHOEBE WOOD RECIPES JAMES VILES & RYAN KOVAC PHOTOGRAPH­Y CHRIS COURT STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS

Biota chef unveils his Barn project.

Consider it the “wild sibling” of its older sister, Biota. Barn by Biota is a new concept in regional dining, brought into being by chef James Viles. Well known for his existing Bowral venue, and his inextricab­le connection to the land he works on, Viles has seized the opportunit­y to transform an unused barn in nearby Kangaloon into a rustic, agrarian-style restaurant.

The converted space, which sits on a 40-hectare property, evolved from a recent revelation the chef had about his place in the restaurant world. “I don’t want to be a victim of my own creation anymore,” the chef told delicious. as he prepared to head off on a road trip exploring Australia’s food landscape in his role as a Land Rover ambassador. “We’re [now] creating restaurant­s around how we want to live, and how we want to eat.”

The unique destinatio­n-dining offering, which is topped by a chic two-bedroom loft for rent, will host just two dinners a month. And the experience? Viles sums it up this way: “We want it to be experiment­al and immersive. Everyone is itching to be in touch with nature; we’ve just decided this is how we are going to do it.”

With a primal, back-to-roots approach to cooking, Viles, alongside head chef Ryan Kovac, will cook everything over fire, from home-grown vegetables to Holmbrae chickens to roast lamb done asado (Argentinia­n grill) style. Guests will arrive in the afternoon to enjoy sunset drinks and snacks, and have the opportunit­y to roam the bucolic property. They’ll then sit down to a shared meal of the best local produce, including cheese from

delicious. Produce Awards winner Pecora Dairy and beef from Wildwood Hill. “Locals are already bringing us so much produce, and it’s all small-batch stuff,” says Viles. “We’ll only use what we have, so nothing goes to waste.”

As the chef pulls a full yabby trap from the property’s creek and delights at his score, it’s clear he is thriving in this untamed environmen­t. “No rules, no bulls**t! I just want to have fun and have some wild dinners.” Strap yourself in!

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 ??  ?? Step from Barn to sit by the open fire and grill as dinner cooks. TOP: James Viles.
Step from Barn to sit by the open fire and grill as dinner cooks. TOP: James Viles.

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