WHEN IT COMES

to Christmas, Matt Moran is an unapologetic traditionalist. “I love all the classics,” he admits. “Ham, turkey with stuffing, roast goose. And we always finish with a pudding.” Luckily for his extended brood, Moran volunteers as host.

“Christmas Day is always at my house, but everyone is welcome,” he says. “It’s been that way for the past 10 years.” The day starts with music – “I play Bing Crosby and David Bowie’s ‘Little Drummer Boy’ every year” – then presents. Lunch begins when Moran’s friend, fellow Sydney chef Michael Moore, brings round the fresh seafood. “And some fizzy of course. After lunch, we tend to have people drop round. It’s then that we get stuck into some pretty good wines.” A recipe for a rollicking good Christmas then!