VIGNERON KATHLEEN QUEALY

is one of Australia’s pioneers of Italian grape varieties and styles. Before pinot grigio was ubiquitous with summer fun and casual drinking (and now more complex versions of the variety), Quealy and her winemaker husband Kevin McCarthy were ahead of the curve.

“Italian grape varieties are well-suited to ‘our place’ and Australia,” offers Quealy. “The Italian varieties and blends come with inherent drinkability and interest, not to mention a synergy with food.” Quealy's Mornington Peninsula pinot grigios are outstanding and helped cement the variety in Australian drinking culture.

Indeed, Italian wines seem inherently linked to food and culture, and have become touchstones for winemakers seeking to produce friendly wines well-suited to our love of al fresco eating and drinking.

Also, the rising impact of climate change has shifted the gaze to Southern-Italian grape varieties. Hence, grapes like the increasingly popular vermentino, nero

d’Avola, fiano and aglianico are making ground in our drinking vernacular.

Younger-generation producers have been flocking to these varieties and putting an ‘Australian accent’ on many of them. Young-gun winemaker Owen Latta has a particular affinity for pinot grigio, making skin-contact ‘orange wines’ with the variety, but his best wines come from the grape variety of Piedmont nebbiolo. “There’s just so much interest in these varieties, you don’t have to over-make the wines; they just happen to have interest and good flavour and weight”.

Winemaking duo Damon and Jono Koerner have been quietly reinventing the image of Clare Valley, with bright, textural styles. “Italian varieties bring about freshness and purity in whites, and for us reds need to show liveliness and vitality. In essence, Italian varieties, innovatively handled, have become wines for our Australian lifestyle.”