Produce Awards
Shining a spotlight on Cape Moreton Scarlet Prawns.
“MY GRANDFATHER, FATHER, uncles, brothers… we’re all fishermen,” says Nick Schultz of Urangan Fisheries. “When I was a kid, we used to prawn in the Mary River, using pocket nets; then later net fishing for barra. As the trawling industry started in the late ’50s, early ’60s, I got involved there for tailor, mullet, crabs.” Now it’s the revitalisation of the Cape Moreton Scarlet Prawn fishery that occupies the veteran fisherman. An ungazetted fishery for decades, bringing this exceptional product – which won Best New Product at the 2020 delicious. Harvey Norman Produce Awards – back to the market hasn’t been without its complexities.
John Susman, a go-to fixer when it comes to getting premium Australian seafood to chefs and consumers, says “over the past threeand-a half-years Nick has effectively reinvented this fishery. He got an experimental licence from the Queensland government to see if this was viable.” This includes, says Susman, carrying independent observers on each trip to monitor what’s coming up from depths of 1800 metres and making sure there’s no abuse of any other species or bycatch.
“It’s dangerous fishing,” adds Susman. “To get the trawl down that deep he’s carrying four kilometres of wire on the spools on the back of the boat which literally weighs tonnes. It’s complex fishing; one knot variance in the current can sink the boat, snagging on a reef can sink the boat. You’ve got to have a skipper that’s got not only their wits about them but has really intimate knowledge of the seascape.” Schultz is humble in the face of Susman’s praise. “Well I’ve been doing it a bloody long time,” he says, revealing that he’s soon coming up on his 80th birthday.
Appetite for Australian super-premium seafood is voracious. This prawn, unique in texture and flavour, could sell in its entirety to Spanish, Italian and French markets “in a heartbeat,” says Susman. He argues that Cape Moreton Scarlet Prawns are as good as the ones that come from the eastern Atlantic off the Spanish coast but adds that most chefs in Australia haven’t dealt with these prawns. “Their flesh is softer and they don’t like high heat,” he says. “The ‘throw the shrimp on the barbie’ type experience is not the way to go with this prawn. Mat Lindsay at Ester in Sydney has done some amazing things with it. My favourite dish is a fried prawn head and gently roasted tail. It’s just gorgeous.”
Martin Benn, previously of his muchlauded Sepia in Sydney, and soon to return to chef duties at perhaps Australia’s most anticipated restaurant in a decade, Society in Melbourne, describes his relationship with the scarlet prawn as a “romance”. He’s enamoured with the “super rich, super tasty” prawn that has many applications. “It’s almost like you don’t need to cook them; a little fire is perfect,” he says. “For me it’s also about the shell.”
“IT’S ALMOST LIKE YOU DON’T NEED TO COOK THEM; A LITTLE FIRE IS PERFECT.” – MARTIN BENN
Benn has developed the shell into oils, salt and powders which are incorporated into the gastronomic landscape he creates.
It’s clear why Cape Moreton Scarlet Prawns have captured the attention of the Produce Awards judges. “It’s a delicacy, says Benn. “There’s no doubt about it.”