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Matt Preston says low and slow is the way to go in the kitchen if you want the best-tasting results.

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Matt Preston’s tips on slowing down.

SO THIS ISSUE of delicious. is all about the joys of slow cooking. The beauty of taking your time in the kitchen doesn’t just involve benefits that come from mindfulnes­s, but the joy of letting things develop, whether it’s the depth of flavour of bolognese or breaking down a tough cut of meat.

When the kitchen is an arena of rushing – to make dinner, to fill a lunchbox, to make sure everything is done before your guests arrive – taking time is also about taking back control. And hopefully along the way you will gain a sense of calm, better rhythm, and then contentedn­ess will follow.

Here are 10 things you can do in the kitchen that benefit from being done slower. I’ve written another eight, which you can find on delicious.com.au

1. Make gnocchi slower. Take time to ensure your potatoes are cooked; take time to let them steam completely so you use less flour, and take the time to carefully incorporat­e that flour to gently pull together your dough. Taking time gives gnocchi the care it needs to be ethereal light pillows.

2. Roast things slower and longer. It doesn’t matter whether it’s butternut pumpkin or that lamb shoulder to add to sesame noodles (as seen on the recipe on this page), give spice rubs and marinades extra time to penetrate; the oven extra time to burnish edges and break down resistance; and finally time to rest your meat properly, which is invariably longer than you usually do, so it can relax and release its juiciness back into the flesh.

3. Cook eggs calmly. It doesn’t matter whether you are stirring eggs over a lower heat to a creamier scramble, or poaching them in simmering water, you will be rewarded with better eggs.

4. Take time to pre-soak beans or chickpeas. Your falafels will be nuttier and firmer, and your soups richer than when using canned.

5. Stir your risotto. You can’t hurry rice, so take your time.

6. Go slow on the bolognese or the chilli. These should have four hours on the stove, barely bubbling, left to rest and then another two hours before eating. That way you’ll get the most intense flavour and the most heavenly golden halo floating on top.

7. Cool your cheesecake. Having patience to cool your cheesecake in the oven is the secret to the creamiest, smoothest finish.

8. Fermenting and preserving requires patience and attention to detail to ensure you get the result you want.

9. Hand-whisk mayonnaise – the result is better with elbow grease.

10. Whip cream. Start slow and keep it that way for billowy whipped cream. Only increase the pace at the end.

XINJIANG LAMB WITH SESAME NOODLES

SERVES 4

This dish has its origins in the Xinjiang province in north-western China. Begin this recipe 1 day ahead.

2 tsp Sichuan peppercorn­s (from Asian grocers and specialty

stores)

2 tbs cumin seeds

3/4 tsp chilli flakes (optional)

6 garlic cloves, peeled

5cm piece (25g) ginger

120ml peanut or vegetable oil

3/4 cup (180ml) light soy sauce

1.6kg boneless lamb shoulder

1/4 cup (60ml) white wine vinegar

Long green shallots and chives, finely chopped, to serve

MAJIANG DRESSING

1/2 cup (75g) toasted sesame seeds

2 tbs each sunflower oil and sesame oil

1 tbs each rice wine vinegar and light soy sauce

BRAISED MUSHROOMS

21/2 tbs peanut oil

100g each shiitake, enoki and oyster mushrooms,

trimmed, sliced

2 cups (500ml) vegetable stock

Zest and juice of 1 orange

Egg noodles, cooked to packet instructio­ns

Place the sichuan peppercorn­s and cumin seeds in a mortar and pestle and crush finely. Add the chilli (if using), garlic and ginger and grind to a paste. Stir in the oil and soy sauce and scrape into a large bowl. Add the lamb, season, and turn to coat. Cover and and marinate in the fridge for 4 hours or, if time permits, overnight. Bring lamb to room temperatur­e before cooking.

Preheat oven to 150°C. Place lamb in a large roasting tray and cover with excess marinade. Add the vinegar and 120ml water to the tray and cover tightly with foil. Bake for 4 hours or until tender and falling apart.

Remove lamb from the oven and switch to the grill function on high. Remove foil and grill lamb for 10 minutes or until crisp on top. (It will brown quickly, so keep an eye on it.) Remove from the grill, cover with foil and rest for 15 minutes, then roughly shred.

Meanwhile, for the Majiang dressing, place all ingredient­s in a food processor and whiz to a paste. Set aside until ready to use.

For the braised mushrooms, place oil in a large frypan over high heat. Add the mushrooms and cook, tossing frequently, for 4-5 minutes until starting to brown. Add the stock, orange juice, zest and the Majiang dressing to taste. Bring to the boil, then reduce heat to medium and simmer for 6-8 minutes until reduced by half. Toss through the cooked egg noodles and season to taste. Divide among bowls and top with lamb, long green shallot and chives.

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