Another WORLD

Armadale’s new wine bar may be inspired by its older fine dining sibling, but it has its own unique charms, writes Kara Irving.

ARMADALE’S POSH NEW wine bar Auterra isn’t a carbon copy of chef-owner Clinton McIver’s nearby fine diner Amaru.

No doubt there are similarities: excellent wine from lesser-known producers teamed with smart snacks, much like the opening bites of its sister venue. But Auttera (‘of the earth’) is, for many, more approachable than Amaru.

The stylish 35-seater is designed by IF Architecture who fittingly coloured the space in moody merlot tones bleeding into a blushing rosé pink as you move from the entrance to the slick copper bar.

Here you can sip grower Champagne perched on leather stools, or snare a table in the dining room, or courtyard in summer, for head chef Steven Harry’s (former Cumulus Inc) selection of two-bite snacks.

Start with simply prepared seafood – oysters, blue mussels or scallops – before a smoked kangaroo tartare resting on a rye toast soldier with anchovy and olive.

The spanner crab doughnut is another must, served warm in a golden blini orb and crowned with salty cucumber.

The hot dog boudin blanc and slider-style king prawn katsu are more substantial, and like all snacks, can be shared, while a comté cheese eclair showered in pecorino, and the shiitake mushroom sundae, make nice finishers.

Champagne is Auterra’s game, but head sommelier Jenna Phillpott also fills out the wine list with unique drops from small producers. Auterra is the lively sibling you’ll want to have drinks with time and again. Auterra, 1160 High St, Armadale, VIC