Mike’s pour

Mike Bennie examines why the future of Australian wine might just be of Italian origin.

Australia has seen an influx of Italian grape varieties in recent years, and a leading reason is climate change. Drought, flood, bushfires, hail and unpredictable heat and cold all impact grape growers and winemakers. Grape varieties that mitigate such vagaries are increasingly important. An added bonus is that the wines are often super interesting and delicious. Three of the most prominent and widely grown here are vermentino, fiano and nero d’Avola.

Vermentino is a lighter, fresher white grape variety originally found around Sardinia and parts of southern Italy. It’s brilliant for hot summer days and raw or barbecued seafood.

Fiano is a white variety that originates from Sicily and Campania in Southern Italy. The best examples are medium-bodied, have great texture and work broadly with an array of foods.

Nero d’Avola is the major red grape variety of Sicily and typically ends up as a light, refreshing red, though it also works great in rosé styles, pet nats and at times, fuller-flavoured reds. When produced as a more delicate red, it goes great out of eskies – ideal for the Australian climate.

WILD FOLK NERO D’AVOLA 2022, $28

From McLaren Vale, this is a juicy, vibrant and thirst-quenching expression produced without additives and with zero preservatives. Expect cherry juice, cranberry and rosehip tea characters. Drink chilled.

CORIOLE FIANO 2022, $24

This is a more textural style, so expect some chalkiness and puckering grip with each sip. That being said, there’s plenty of attractive fruitiness here, too, although it’s a dry white wine overall. Nashi pear, almond and lemon blossom abound.

RICCA TERRA VERMENTINO 2022, $26

Grown in the hot climate of the Riverland wine region, vermentino thrives in these conditions. This is electric and zesty; a super refreshing, tingly, steely white of saline mineral character and limey tang. A seafood specialist.