Dish

Capsicums

Capsicums come in more colours than traffic lights – a variety that’s echoed in the multiple ways to use them

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If you were around in the 70s you’ll most likely remember when green capsicums or peppers – we use the names interchang­eably in New Zealand – first appeared. They were novel, beacons of goodness, a symbol of all those Mediterran­ean foods we’d seen in magazines but couldn’t get. We embraced them because they helped break the monotony of standard Kiwi vegetables, adding crunch to salads and sandwiches, though in stews and curries they tasted more vegetal and curiously bitter and were often pushed to the side of a plate and left uneaten. (That strong bitterness has been bred out of them, although it may still be apparent in homegrown peppers).

The 80s brought red capsicums – which are ripened green ones; who knew? – and later yellow, orange and chocolate brown. Black, purple and white varieties then followed.

Capsicums entered mainstream consumptio­n decades ago. They are no longer a sign of summer, grown all year round in hothouses or imported when there are shortages, although bargains abound during warmer months.

Taut skin and a bright sheen are the best indicators of freshness. Withered flesh or soft patches tell a different story. Sometimes, though, a perfectly sound pepper has blackening spots inside. Is it safe to eat? In my experience, yes; just cut away the dark bits, wash your knife and carry on.

While all capsicums are a great source of vitamin C and contain B6 and folate, red capsicums contain more than the other colours and, along with the orange variety, they also contain vitamin A.

Good for you though they may be, some find them indigestib­le. Char-grilling and removing the skin, which causes most of the problems, and removing seeds and seed membrane may make them more digestible (see below).

Capsicums are great stuffed with couscous, rice or grains like freekeh. Cut them in half through the stem (it helps hold them together). The trick is to plenty of flavour to the stuffing, such as lemon zest, chopped black olives, chopped herbs, garlic and capers. A shower of crumbs and parmesan gives a golden crust, and a drizzle of oil stops them becoming dry. Roast for about 25 minutes in a hot oven.

Or roast chunks of potato and capsicum for about 1 hour, then add rounds of fried chorizo and chopped rosemary in the last 5 minutes.

Capsicums add brightness, sweetness and goodness. I wouldn’t be without them.

“Capsicums add brightness, sweetness and goodness”

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