TOP OF THE TASTING
Our first ever dish Tasting Panel occurred in this very issue back in 2012. It was an intense experience and one we were completely unprepared for. We attempted to fit two top judging teams in a tiny boardroom and assumed the little dishwasher in the staff kitchenette could cope with the glassware needed for an eyepopping 182 entries. Very quickly we realised we’d best enlist a professional stewarding team to handle the volume of entries, the serving of the wines on judging day and of course, the mountains of glassware involved. Cue Janet Blackman and Cameron Douglas MS from the Professional Wine Studies Department and the AUT School of Hospitality and Tourism to the rescue! Seven years on from being fraught firsttimers, our Winter Issue Pinot Panel is firing on all cylinders.
Winter has pinot noir written all over it, right? The stags are on the roar, mushrooms are popping up overnight for the foraging, the firewood’s been stacked and slow-cookers are operating on overtime. Good thing too, seeing as there’s a smorgasbord of superb local pinot noir to help warm your cockles as things cool down. So good in fact, that in addition to our 12 gold medal winners, a whopping 47 entries scored silver medals and 43 earned bronze. Our judges are tough, and the tasting is conducted blind, so to earn any medal is a huge achievement. In fact, earlier vintages of the Auntsfield, Judge Rock and Wooing Tree wines also won gold at that inaugural tasting – proof of pedigree indeed.
Our judges look for pristine fruit, gentle oak handling, spicy nuances,
silky textures and a lingering, seductive finish. It has to be generous and gorgeous in the glass. Each wine was assessed among its own regional and vintage-specific peers to give it every chance to shine, and our results prove Central Otago pinot absolutely sparkled in 2016 and 2017.
“What I love about pinot noir is its ability to express itself in many guises” says judge Jane Boyle. “There’s a seductiveness and complexity among the best which is hard to put your finger on, but once you taste it you just know.” Pinot noir is also notoriously difficult and expensive to grow, so it’s always pricier than most reds. Rest assured, our medal winners are worth every cent. “What’s exciting about New Zealand pinot noir is there are a lot of good quality wines available at a reasonable price point, ie under $35,” adds Jane. “Though the old adage of getting what you pay for is true with pinot. The best examples tend to be at the higher end and in tiny quantities and they’re released when they’ve had more of a chance to soften and integrate.
“If I had to give any advice to newcomers to pinot, it would be to try everything and to be open-minded about what constitutes a good example. I’d especially encourage those who don’t think they like the variety to keep tasting it. Believe me, the light does come on and before you know it you’ve become a Pinotphile.”
1
Auntsfield Single Vineyard Marlborough Pinot Noir 2017 ($45) Gold Medal
Holy moly; this is an aristocrat if ever there was one. “Dark, fleshy, bold and fruity,” said Cameron, and Corey was equally impressed, adding dense cherry, black doris and spiced currant characters to the mix. Ric salivated over its big, ripe, juicy mouthfeel and beyond lovely drinkability. A seriously impressive wine with layers of dried herbs and firm, sweet tannins. Totally deserving of the top spot.
2
Akarua Bannockburn Pinot Noir 2017 ($45) Gold Medal
“Love!” noted Yvonne at the first sip. “It’s dark, glossy and inky in the glass, seriously juicy and succulent.” Jane agreed: “Gorgeous colour and really lifted on the nose, it’s a floral, fruity, sensational wine that’s nicely integrated and harmonious, soft, velvety and incredibly ripe.” This pure and delightful pinot also impressed the pants off Colin. “Lustrous colour, lush, classy, fruit, good use of stems. Ripe but refined.”
3
Forrest Marlborough Pinot Noir 2017 ($30) Gold Medal
Dr John Forrest had the foresight to
“What I love about pinot noir is its ability to express itself in many guises”
plant pinot noir in Marlborough decades ago, and both vine age and talent in his team have turned out all-round excellence. “Intense dark colour,” noted Colin. “The aromas are restrained, yet it shows excellent concentration, balance, depth and complexity, with refined notes of cacao; wonderful balance”. Jane agreed, adding tarry, bold, masculine textures.
4
Judge Rock Alexandra Central Otago Pinot Noir 2016 ($45) Gold Medal
It’s easy to see how our judges were wowed by this southern star. “Savoury and earthy-toned, it’s a really interesting wine that’s sweet and fruitful, with red berries, cloaked in an inky, tarry character,” said Ric. Corey was impressed with its cherry, currant and herb notes and lovely balance. “Fleshy and engaging, it’s a really nice wine,” said Cameron.
5
Nautilus Estate Southern Valleys Marlborough Pinot Noir 2015 ($39) Gold Medal
“Super-floral!” announced Yvonne, “with baked plum, fresh berries, cherries and a juicy, beautifully balanced mouthfeel.” Her team agreed, adding “wonderfully bright”, “charming”, “such elegance and finesse”, and “nice weight, concentration and complexity” to the mix.
6
Te Kano Central Otago Pinot Noir 2017 ($64.99) Gold Medal
‘Te Kano’ means ‘seed’ in Māori, and this wine will definitely grow on you (see what I did there). With its smoky fruit, hints of pepper, dark cherry and loads of raspberry, lots of people will love this wine,” said Cameron. Ric found it long and supple on the palate, showing berry compote, thyme, dusty oak, char and smoke. Glorious stuff.
7
Pyramid Valley Central Otago Pinot Noir 2017 ($45) Gold Medal
This iconic example of organic, biodynamic pinot noir from North Canterbury instantly gave our judges a wow moment. “Incredibly bright, ripe berries and the slightly dry finish,” noted Jane, “It’s almost Amaronelike and pruney. Personality plus!” Dark crimson and cloudy (as is the norm for many unfiltered reds), this rockstar dominates with intense fruit and textural elements.
8
Wooing Tree Central Otago Pinot Noir 2017 ($48) Gold Medal
With its great colour, cherry-centric flavours and big, bold, tarry and masculine tannins, it’s a self-assured style “that’s unabashedly Central Otago, and definitely waves the flag,” noted Jane. Colin added, “It’s also intensely aromatic, with great complexity too”. Yvonne loved its buoyancy, flexibility and litheness on the palate.
9
Valli Bendigo Vineyard Central Otago Pinot Noir 2017 ($69) Gold Medal
Crafted by Central Otago superstar Grant Taylor and his team, it was no surprise to see a Valli pinot noir in our top 12. “Dark, inky, mysterious and infected with a fresh, sexy and frisky spirit,” noted Yvonne, while Jane found the acid structure and layers of berryfruit incredibly pretty. Colin applauded its bold, spicy character, solid tannins and excellent concentration and depth.
10
Mud House Claim 431 Vineyard Central Otago Pinot Noir 2016 ($32.99) Gold Medal
No sooner did the Marlborough Mud House team push further south into Central Otago than they began raking in the ratings. With its rich colour, spice and fruit layers, this wine is beautifully integrated, lush and plush to sip, said Colin. “Masculine, assertive and with well-handled oak and lovely concentration, it has lovely body and weight” added Jane.
11
Domain Road Bannockburn Central Otago Pinot Noir 2016 ($40) Gold Medal
Graeme Crosbie does it again with this stunning pinot. “It is just a joy to drink” noted Yvonne, “beautifully structured, spice-driven and nicely integrated”. Our other judges agreed, commenting on its tea leaf, cherry and berry complexity, pretty florals and poise on the palate.
12
Loveblock Central Otago Pinot Noir 2016 ($35) Gold Medal
When the scarily talented Kim Crawford gets his mitts on five clones of pinot growing in schisty, alluvial Central Otago soils, you’d better take note of the result. “So easy and succulent, fresh and feisty to sip” said Yvonne, while our other judges talked about “intense colour”, “plush fruit” and “vanilla oak”. Jane was particularly taken by its elegant, wild thyme and red fruit flavours.