JULIE BIUSO

Plump or skinny, cooked or raw, in salads, stir-fries and risottos – or at the heart of that good old Kiwi classic, the asparagus roll – this new season vege is as versatile as it is delicious

In season: asparagus.

Tempting as those first pencilthin bunches of asparagus are each spring, I try to hold off. That’s the thing with asparagus, once conditions are right – cool nights and mild daytime temperatures – up they pop in abundance, and it’s then you will find verdant, snap-fresh mounds of them at a good price.

Hot asparagus rolled in butter and dusted with grated parmesan makes a great lunch to celebrate the start of the season. Add crushed garlic or slivers of black garlic, fresh thyme or a little grated nutmeg to the butter as you fancy. Toasted grainy bread slathered with butter, topped with steaming asparagus, a drizzle of melted butter, parmesan, flaky salt and freshly ground pepper is another go-to that’s buttery, cheesy, toasty, crunchy and sublime.

When buying asparagus choose spears of an even thickness because they will all cook at the same time. Regardless of the thickness, the spears should be nice and taut with closed tips.

It’s easy to snap the ends off asparagus; they’ll only snap where it’s tender. If you prefer neat ends, trim with a knife. Cook in gently boiling salted water in a roomy saucepan or frying pan, without a lid, for 2-5 minutes,

depending on their end use. Drain and refresh with cold water to halt the cooking process, or chill quickly in icy-cold water if serving later, or in a salad. Dry on paper towels before using.

If eating raw, asparagus must be spanking fresh. Mixed green and purple look effective together in a salad. Cut into short lengths on a mandoline, or shave into strips with a peeler. Make a salad with shaved asparagus and a lemony vinaigrette and drape with thin slices of smoked salmon. Add a blob of crème fraîche and dusting of chopped dill or chervil. A warning; both lemon and vinegar can discolour asparagus, so dress salads just before serving.

Plump spears are ideal for dipping into sauces or dressings and they’re best for roasting – trim and rub or spray with oil, place in a single layer in a shallow roasting tin and roast on a fairly high temperature until the natural sugars caramelise and the tips turn crunchy. Plump asparagus can also be cooked on a hot barbecue grill.

It’s when are you making a frittata that skinny asparagus come into their own; they’re easier to twirl around the pan in the egg mixture. Cook spears until tender before adding to eggs and seasonings because crunchy asparagus will split a frittata when it is cut.

Asparagus adds crunch and texture to a stir-fry or warm salad but when adding to risotto, cook until tender. Creamy rice grains won’t cling to firm asparagus and you’ll end up having two meals … one of silky rice grains and one of naked asparagus. Likewise, with pasta. You can’t eat crunchy asparagus in the same mouthful as an ‘al dente’ piece of pasta. When making a risotto, add blanched asparagus cooking water for stock. Enhance these dishes with roasted asparagus tips, lemon zest, grated cheese and grilled bacon or prosciutto.

Plump spears are ideal for dipping into sauces or dressings