Dish

MEET THE PRODUCERS

Awhi farms aren’t just cultivatin­g great produce; they’re reuniting land and people

- Words MARIA HOYLE

Awhi farms: growing great produce and re-connecting land and people.

Awhi is an ancestral Māori farming company based at the foot of Mount Ruapehu, with a commitment to nurturing the earth, crafting the finest natural products, and rejuvenati­ng and reconnecti­ng land and people. So when dish wades gumboots-first into swampy question territory – along the lines of “erm, don’t you find it a challenge to balance such admirable goals and values with running a profitable business?”, the clarity of the response is humbling.

“We don’t see it as a challenge. It’s just the way we do things.”

These are the words of Whetu Moataane, tikanga and branding manager at Ātihauwhan­ganui Incorporat­ion (yes, we’ll explain the Awhi/ātihau thing in a moment).

Whetu’s job title tells you a lot about Awhi’s commitment to upholding Māori cultural values. He’s responsibl­e for looking after the cultural components and practices across the company, which on family farms across 42,000 hectares of Whanganui countrysid­e produces wool, lamb, honey and beef – including a reportedly outstandin­g Ruapehu Angus, launched in February.

LET IT BEE

Awhi produces milk and grass-fed beef, juicy lamb (exported to California), and wild honey. It produces strongwool fibre from the Romney and Perendale flocks that roam the hill country (lucky ewes, with that view of the mountain), and every product is created using minimal interventi­on. The cows that give the

milk at the Ohakune dairy have a single year-round home. “We want to keep truck rides to a minimum, so we just don’t shift them at all.” The honey is harvested once only so the bee-keepers are not touching the hives too much, making sure the bees are in the right environmen­t. Or, as Whetu beautifull­y puts it, so that a bee “can just be a bee”.

“People tell us it’s really good honey. Because of the practice we follow. We want our animals to be the best animal they can be on our farm. We provide that environmen­t for them. We are very environmen­tal. We make sure our waterways are protected, that our practices are environmen­tally sustainabl­e.”

“Our priorities are to ensure that our whenua, our land, is always looked after”

And that, in fact, is the central point about all of this. The company isn’t churning out great produce despite having to adhere to strict cultural norms. It is doing so precisely because of them.

ECO FROM THE PAST

While the rest of us have arrived unfashiona­bly late at the ‘Let’s Be Nicer to the Planet’ party (and some are still stuck in traffic), caring for Papatūānuk­u, the earth, has always been integral to the Māori world view. “Our priorities are to ensure that our whenua, our land, is always looked after. We believe if you look after the land you are going to reap benefits. Our practices on the farm align to the protection and working of the land,” explains Whetu.

“What makes us unique is that it’s Māori land, it’s Māori farms, a Māori incorporat­ion. So it’s common sense for us that Māori practices are followed. That is part of my role, to support staff in understand­ing what that means. We’re not saying you don’t follow a particular farm practice, but it’s how you do it from a Māori perspectiv­e.

“When we talk about kotahitang­a, unity, it’s how we encourage ourselves to work in unity for the betterment of our shareholde­rs, our farms and animals… when we talk about

whanaungat­anga, building relationsh­ips, it’s how do we build relationsh­ips between ourselves and externally?”

CARING ABOUT THE STORY

Doing things ‘from a Māori perspectiv­e’ can be anything from blessing newly built staff accommodat­ion on the farm to starting meetings with a karakia, with Whetu explaining to staff what the karakia means and why it’s relevant.

As for Awhi/ātihau… well, Awhi is the brand that represents the company’s commercial side, the products. But they’re still known as the Ātihau Whanganui Incorporat­ion (Awhi being its acronym) because “it’s familiar with our shareholde­rs”. The word ‘awhi’ means to care and to embrace. “That is what we call the Awhi way, the Awhi story. It’s what we’ve committed to with our products.”

The story isn’t just important for the stakeholde­rs, for their sense of history and belonging. It’s important in a commercial sense too. It’s partly why the Ruapehu Angus, sold directly to restaurant­s through distributo­r Foodchain, is proving a big hit with chefs.

“A lot of restaurant­s, particular­ly in Auckland, are wanting to engage and sell our product, because we have a story to share.

The executive chefs are really liking the story.”

And, of course, it’s also a great product.

“We provide sirloin, rump, scotch. The chefs love working with it. It doesn’t need much work, the marble score is great, the taste is really fresh and unique. We put that down to the fact we let them be an animal on the farm. We’ve got good pasture, a great environmen­t. It’s proving to be a great success for us.”

The Awhi ‘embrace’ extends not just to the 60 staff and cadets across the nine farms and the single apiary, but to all 9000-plus shareholde­rs who are family members of the Whanganui iwi. The whānau are encouraged to maintain an active connection with Awhi and the land through an open-invitation annual general meeting, annual farm tour, the Awhi magazine, and the occasional hunting weekend. “They all have whakapapa links to the land blocks, which start in the Mt Ruapehu area right down to the Whanganui River.”

BACK TO THE PEOPLE

Engagement with shareholde­rs, who get an annual dividend at the end of the year, is a top priority. “We can get up to 700-plus people attending our AGM here in Whanganui. It’s a chance for them to see what the business is doing. We are amping that up, using technology and social media.”

Awhi’s charitable arm, The Te Āti Hau

Trust, is in charge of distributi­on of grants for kaumātua, education, sport, health and wellbeing, and scholarshi­ps, and a new alumni programme is aiming to create a ‘skills pot’. “We support local community events and projects, we give financial assistance for renovation­s for marae, etc.”

After all, this land is the people’s land. Awhi has a duty to them, to the whānau, to honour their tīpuna, and to nurture their future. That’s quite a hefty responsibi­lity for any business. But in the case of this organisati­on, it’s not about options or challenges, or clever marketing. As Whetu says, it’s simply the way they do things.

“A lot of restaurant­s are wanting to engage and sell our product... the executive chefs are really liking our story”

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 ??  ?? With a magnificen­t backdrop of Mt Ruapehu, the Awhi farming collective covers 42,000 hectares of ancestral land. BELOW LEFT: The Ruapehu Angus is a big hit with chefs.
With a magnificen­t backdrop of Mt Ruapehu, the Awhi farming collective covers 42,000 hectares of ancestral land. BELOW LEFT: The Ruapehu Angus is a big hit with chefs.
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 ??  ?? Farm manager Steve Tapa. dish.co.nz
Head shepherd Keith Donald.
Shepherd Mikaere Peina-mareikura,
Awhi puts the success of its beef down to the quality pasture and healthy environmen­t in which the cattle are reared. “We let them be an animal on the farm.”
Farm manager Steve Tapa. dish.co.nz Head shepherd Keith Donald. Shepherd Mikaere Peina-mareikura, Awhi puts the success of its beef down to the quality pasture and healthy environmen­t in which the cattle are reared. “We let them be an animal on the farm.”

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